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FORUMS Photo Sharing & Visual Enjoyment Sports 
Thread started 15 Feb 2011 (Tuesday) 13:40
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Metering Mode For HS Basketball

 
STUMP1982
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Feb 16, 2011 12:27 |  #16

namasste wrote in post #11849275 (external link)
if you are new to shooting sports, f2 will take some getting used to. its critical to pay close attention to just where you have that AF point. something as simple as a guy (or lady, sorry) that runs by leading with their chest or shoulders can be enough to screw up your focus if you happen to grab that since your DOF is so very thin at f2. try moving your af point up one notch from dead center until you get the hang of it. that will get your focus closer to the face which might help a bit. other than that, look closely at your images after shooting (I use Zoombrowser) and see where your AF point actually is. 10:1 says its often not where you think and correcting that is simply a matter of practice.

Thanks for this tip...Shots from last nights game turned out a lot better. Anybody know how too post some of my shots on this web-sight? Thanks Again




  
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namasste
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Feb 16, 2011 12:45 |  #17

STUMP1982 wrote in post #11855229 (external link)
Thanks for this tip...Shots from last nights game turned out a lot better. Anybody know how too post some of my shots on this web-sight? Thanks Again

great to hear. to post images simply use the html code

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Feb 16, 2011 12:52 |  #18

STUMP1982 wrote in post #11855229 (external link)
Thanks for this tip...Shots from last nights game turned out a lot better. Anybody know how too post some of my shots on this web-sight? Thanks Again

I think you're asking about how to upload an image for display in the forum.

If so, then select [Go Advanced] before you post, then use the paperclip icon center/top for 'manage attachments' Keep the image under 800px on the long edge as JPG.

You can also open a Flickr account, then post links to your photos from that site.


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TitusvilleSurfer
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Feb 17, 2011 00:27 |  #19

STUMP1982 wrote in post #11848614 (external link)
Wondering what metering mode would work better for HS Basketball? Spot or Center Weighted? I use a T2i with a 85mm 1.8. I have been getting a lot of shots out of focus. Any input would be helpful..

I know you corrected that auto-focus was your concern when you were questioned on metering, but "spot" and "center weighted" are definitely metering. This makes me wonder if your mistake wasn't just a jumbled word but that you don't understand your own question. Are you sure you are using f/2? "Spot" and "center weighted" are methods the camera uses to advise you whether to use f/2 or not. Is your main dial set to Av, Tv, M, Sport, or the green box? Sorry if I sound condescending, I am really trying to help.


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namasste
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Feb 17, 2011 08:25 |  #20

TitusvilleSurfer wrote in post #11859398 (external link)
I know you corrected that auto-focus was your concern when you were questioned on metering, but "spot" and "center weighted" are definitely metering. This makes me wonder if your mistake wasn't just a jumbled word but that you don't understand your own question. Are you sure you are using f/2? "Spot" and "center weighted" are methods the camera uses to advise you whether to use f/2 or not. Is your main dial set to Av, Tv, M, Sport, or the green box? Sorry if I sound condescending, I am really trying to help.

if metering is also a question, the answer is that it depends. I tend to stick to CWA unless I have good reason to do otherwise. If you are in M, the metering will only be for info purposes as you are setting everything. In Av, metering is very important since its how your camera decides what shutter speed to use for any given ISO/aperture combo. The problem with spot and an auto mode is that more often than not, uniforms are dark and light (home v away). If you spot meter the jersey of a player in a dark kit, its more likely than not, that you'll grossly overexpose the image and vice versa in a light kit (underexpose). Again, this is if you are using any auto mode like Av. What I typically do is to set a custom WB and metering pre game (another strong argument why you HAVE to try to be at games early and be prepared) by using a gray card. I do this in Av, spot. Once I see the settings, I switch to M, put those settings in and take a few test shots of players warming up. I check my histogram and tweak settings accordingly. Metering no longer matters at this point, just the histogram. Bear in mind, this is for indoor sports or outdoor with consistent lighting. If outside in mixed light, you'll more likely use Av and then metering is quite important. Here, I'll use CWA metering and often add 1/3 stop exposure comp since I'd rather have my histogram to the right end of things. In this case, I do periodically check the histogram to make sure I am staying properly exposed.

I'll leave this for a different discussion but ideally, you'll use an incident light meter rather than in camera metering to determine exposure since even in a consistently lit gym, you'd be surprised at how inconsistent it really is.

Hope that helps.


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superdiver
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Feb 17, 2011 11:54 |  #21

STUMP1982 wrote in post #11849669 (external link)
Thanks I will try that at tonights game. Also should I adjust my f/stop too 1.8 or 2.5?

Here is how I prioritize my settings..

1)ss, I like to use 1/500 or 1/640 for fast older players
2)f stop (usually start out at 2.0)
3)ISO, what ever I need to make the above work.

my reasoning for this is that if I cant stop the action with ss then its blurry, the f stop is chosen cuz I most likely will have to use it pretty wide to allow for lighting. And ISO cuz I can correct alot with Noise Ninja, but I cant correct blurr and exposure with it.

Most gyms I have a pretty go idea what I am going to use before I walk in cuz I know them, but when I am unsure thats what I start out with and adjust from there...


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STUMP1982
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Feb 17, 2011 14:42 |  #22

TitusvilleSurfer wrote in post #11859398 (external link)
I know you corrected that auto-focus was your concern when you were questioned on metering, but "spot" and "center weighted" are definitely metering. This makes me wonder if your mistake wasn't just a jumbled word but that you don't understand your own question. Are you sure you are using f/2? "Spot" and "center weighted" are methods the camera uses to advise you whether to use f/2 or not. Is your main dial set to Av, Tv, M, Sport, or the green box? Sorry if I sound condescending, I am really trying to help.

I always shoot in M f/2 3200 ISO SS 1/800 seems too work the best. Wish I had the 7d for better auto focus and fps...




  
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SoundsGood
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Feb 17, 2011 15:03 |  #23

STUMP1982 wrote in post #11862690 (external link)
Wish I had the 7d for better auto focus and fps...

Me too! :)



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SkateSoft
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Feb 17, 2011 23:13 |  #24

Use the back * button for focus. It will make much more shots be on focus as I was having the same problem with the 550d and now almost every shot is it focus.


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STUMP1982
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Feb 18, 2011 05:06 |  #25

SkateSoft wrote in post #11865412 (external link)
Use the back * button for focus. It will make much more shots be on focus as I was having the same problem with the 550d and now almost every shot is it focus.

Can you explain this a little bit more. I have pushed the back focus button (which I is in the front by the lens) and nothing happens. Am I doing something wrong?




  
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SkateSoft
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Feb 18, 2011 08:42 |  #26

STUMP1982 wrote in post #11866258 (external link)
Can you explain this a little bit more. I have pushed the back focus button (which I is in the front by the lens) and nothing happens. Am I doing something wrong?

I didn't ask this in the message, but what button were you pressing?


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namasste
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Feb 18, 2011 09:01 |  #27

STUMP1982 wrote in post #11866258 (external link)
Can you explain this a little bit more. I have pushed the back focus button (which I is in the front by the lens) and nothing happens. Am I doing something wrong?

huh? dude, how can the BACK button be in the FRONT? The back button is the * button on the back of the camera. Use it for focus and the front button to lock exposure and release the shutter. You have to change your custom function settings to allow the focus to be done with the *. No offense but all I can think of when reading this is the Far Side...


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SkateSoft
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Feb 18, 2011 09:22 |  #28

namasste wrote in post #11867060 (external link)
huh? dude, how can the BACK button be in the FRONT? The back button is the * button on the back of the camera. Use it for focus and the front button to lock exposure and release the shutter. You have to change your custom function settings to allow the focus to be done with the *. No offense but all I can think of when reading this is the Far Side...

No need to be a jerk. He has messaged me and I put him on the right path.


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SoundsGood
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Feb 18, 2011 09:37 as a reply to  @ namasste's post |  #29

Guys, trying to figure out the RIGHT way to use this back button thing made me nuts (and yep, I read lots of threads on it).

Is there a super-easy-to-understand, step-by-step, for-idiots-only ;) tutorial anywhere on this topic? I'm currently using a 40D if it matters.

Thanks!



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SkateSoft
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Feb 18, 2011 09:44 |  #30

On the back of the camera (LCD side) you will notice the two buttons next to each other on the top left. The one on the left is called the AE LOCK button and basically if your using AV mode it will lock in your setting. To make that button the focus button go to your menu, custom functions. Then scroll to option 9 and choose 3 (fourth one). It will take a little time to get used to but believe it helps. BTW if you don't know why it helps it is because when you use AI SERVO with the shutter button most people pick there fingers up causing it to not track.

This is the same msg I sent Stump


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Metering Mode For HS Basketball
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