Im doing the same as you. I had a Smugmug for a year, but i dont really need the online shopping cart, and i hated the customization options even when you get into the advanced stuff. I also knew zero about html ,css, etc.
I recently purchased my own domain/hosting etc, and I couldnt find/didn't really want a 'pre-built' template site. Im using Adobe Dreamweaver & Adobe Flash software to build and maintain my site. I have a background in print design and already had the entire Creative Suite 3 on my computer so i didnt invest any money in expensive software or templates. Sure its been challenging, and I had to purchase some books to learn the basics, but Dreamweaver is a WYSIWYG software so what I design on my computer generally (barring a few wonky graphics floating to random places) is what appears on my live site.
If you aren't up to learning web design from scratch, or have the money to invest in a program like Dreamweaver, Godaddy which is my host, has a Website Tonight option, where you can buy hosting space and they provide lots of premade templates that you uplaod your content to and can customize. I personally havent used it, but it may be something worth looking into. Godaddy's control panels are kind of cluttered and 'interesting' to use, but so far I havn't had any down time as far as their hosting reliability, but I'm still paying by the month and will continue to do so for a few more months just to make sure that realibility holds up before i commit to a longer amount of time.