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Thread started 02 Mar 2011 (Wednesday) 10:24
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Automotive Image Editing/Post-Processing: Before and After

 
Caspita
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Mar 05, 2011 01:08 |  #46

JMartel wrote in post #11957466 (external link)
So the polarizer got rid of the reflections in the driver side body panels. Nice. I have one that fits my 50mm, but I haven't used it in a while. Did you just desaturate the headlights to get rid of the rainbow effect from the polarizer?

Definitely have a layer in there to desaturate the rainbow effect. Although it wasn't too bad to begin with, it is certainly worth it to ensure it won't detract from the vehicle itself.


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Mar 05, 2011 08:00 |  #47

Went to World of Wheels for a little bit yesterday, kinda boring if you ask me, and certainly not a good environment for getting good shots. But, here's a before and after of one of the cars...


Before...

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1.) Re-size by 50%, not only does that make the image an ideal size for uploading to the internet, but it also makes it easier to work with the image.

2.) Crop, which is purely preference for me. I don't have a "standard" crop size I just go with whatever I think will look nice.

3.) Noiseware on the "Default" setting, which I run to get rid of noise, and also so when I pick up the exposure or brightness I don't get more noise.

4.) Clarity. I use Paint Shop Pro X2 and the Clarity tool simply goes from zero to 20, and I typically leave it on 20. Gives a nice subdued HDR effect, and I like what it does to cars.

5.) Histogram. Easy enough, grab a slider and move it. Again this is to my own preference, I don't have a good rule of thumb for what I do to the exposure or brightness of a shot. If I think it looks good I do it.

After...

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mr. ­ fish
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Mar 05, 2011 17:30 |  #48

aemravan wrote in post #11945557 (external link)
here is the only set of which i had a before-after image uploaded to flickr already, its a simply rolling shot, and as you can tell, there isnt too much post going on except for the rig-removal via the clone stamp tool, having the pleasure of shooting with a 5dii and some L glass really simplifies on the amount of post i have to do to make my images "pop" , the only thing i do aside from cloning is adjusting the levels, and running trhough a sharpening action

QUOTED IMAGE
QUOTED IMAGE

absolutely love that pic and supra! good work!


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Mar 05, 2011 18:35 as a reply to  @ mr. fish's post |  #49

Katodog, very nice recovery. I really like the crop as well. Only question I have is, did you resize it before cropping it?


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katodog
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Mar 05, 2011 19:06 |  #50

I typically resize first no matter what I'm doing, makes it easier to work on the half-sized image, and makes processing steps go faster.

Edit: Actually, for car shots I tend to crop first, then resize. That particular shot was resized first, then cropped. I'm noticing as I'm editing car shots right now that I'm cropping first then resizing on most of the shots. However, I doubt it matter to the final shot which comes first.


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Mar 05, 2011 20:25 |  #51

I tend to edit first on the original file. More information on it, and I find detail work much easier to do when at 100 or 200% on the 5000px file. Plus, should I decide that I want higher res than what I post up online, I can easily change it. Edit a master file, then every time you resize, save as a copy so you always have the master one.


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katodog
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Mar 05, 2011 21:34 |  #52

Another edit, similar to the other one I posted...


Before...

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After...

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This one got a rotate counterclockwise by 1 degree, then cropped and resized by 50%. Same general processing of noise reduction, clarity, noise reduction again to remove noise added by the Clarity adjustment, and then USM (Radius = 2, Strength = 75, Clipping = 0). Unfortunately the World of Wheels is designed to show the cars in the best "light" for visual observing and is not conducive for taking better than "PnS"-level images. Gotta work with what you get, and I was bouncing between AV and Manual for the time I was there. Add to that the higher ISO and if the crappy shutter speeds don't get you the noise does.

Luckily I've shot enough car shows to have a few tricks up my sleeve.


Certainly made me miss the beauty of an outdoor car show. One light, the Sun, and there you go. No need for any real thought, just set the camera once and pick an angle.

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51OAU
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Mar 05, 2011 22:52 |  #53

Before:

IMAGE: http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/1166/img0058ve.jpg


After:
IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
Byte size: ZERO | Content warning: NOT AN IMAGE

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FreeStyle_Fabrications
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Mar 05, 2011 23:42 |  #54

Orig:

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Edited:
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i'll do a short list for now, and add to it as i remember lol.

*Shot in RAW, when imported into photoshop, changed the lightsource to Auto, to get rid of the blue hue. also played with the brightness, contrast and clarity.
*duplicated the layer, and used layer mask to just show the outter "archway", played with the brightness & contrast, and i think i changed the blend mode to darken (or multiply)
*found a nighttime backdrop via google, and chopped it into the background, duplicated and flipped vertical and changed the blend mode to change the lighting on the ceiling.
*adjusted the asphalt via curves, and added another layer to the left of the car to adjust for the harsh light coming in.
*i believe the car is made up of 2 different renditions of the original image, which i reimported the original RAW image, and messed with the settings until i liked it.
*added the blue lighting to the drivers side of the car, and cleaned up some of the highlights around the edge of the car via the burn tool
*brought in a 3rd rendition of the windshield and spent a crapload of time getting that to where i was happy with it
*and then i resized it, bordered it, and stamped it

there were probably many other things i tried and undid or partially undid, but thats what i remember



  
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ReubenH
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Mar 06, 2011 05:24 |  #55

Neat thread idea!

One of my favourites for the now.

450D, 18-55 IS, CPL filter.

Before

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After
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Started in Lightroom with a crop to get the car better in frame, then did some fill lighing to bring out the shaddows (would use a flash if I had one!) Then I pumped the contrast up to suit, and as a side effect, that increases the saturation too, which I chose to leave. Then, becuase I'm a fan of vignettes, chucked one on for good measure. Then exported to photoshop, did a 'soft light' layer at about 25% to get some nice colour burn, cloned out the sign, resized, and sharpened.


Here another older shot, using similar techniques, only I went overboard on the fill light and contrast trick to make the reflections jump out and scream shiny car. And instead of leaving the saturation, i toned that riiiight down. Seems to work better that way on black cars.

Before:
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After:
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51OAU
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Mar 07, 2011 00:28 |  #56

ReubenH wrote in post #11965350 (external link)
Before:
QUOTED IMAGE

After:
QUOTED IMAGE

The before looks better IMO


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yashart
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Mar 07, 2011 08:03 |  #57

^^^ No way, the after brings so much more detail back into the blacks. Just my opinion though :)

Reuben, Love the final product of the Mustang shot. Excellent photo


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JMartel
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Mar 07, 2011 13:17 |  #58

Ok. This is what I do for my usual PP technique. I generally do this to all my images, and then I'll pull a few and do some more creative stuff.

Original file:

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Open it up in camera raw, adjust white balance, generally add fill light, increase blacks, increase contrast, increase brightness a bit, put the clarity somewhere around 20, vibrance and saturation are generally about 10 and do a crop. Bring it into photoshop and it looks like this:

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From there, I generally make a copy of the background layer, change the blending mode to overlay, and add a high pass filter (filters->other->high pass). In the preview, you'll see that the image is all grey with lines. You generally want to change the radius to the point where it's just starting to show halos with a small bit of color. It's almost always less than 10px. Click ok, then go over to the layers menu and lower the opacity. It's generally between 30 and 70% for what I do, with the vast majority hovering around 50%.

From there, you need to resize the image for the web, which I always do 1024px on the long side for. After that, you sharpen it once more for the specific size. Most use an unsharpening filter, but I use the smart sharpen (filter->sharpen->smart sharpen). Select it to remove lens blur. I find I'm generally around 75-125% and around 1px radius. Save it, and upload to flickr.

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Snot ­ Rocket ­ Science
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Mar 07, 2011 13:39 |  #59

What does it actually mean to "save for web"?


And could anyone explain to me how to add "Fill Light" in PP?




  
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Mar 07, 2011 13:40 |  #60

I made a thread about this image, but I think it would be good to have in here archived.

Not the coolest picture on earth. I took it to practice/learn how to remove major flaws from images..

Before:


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After:


IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5054/5503035729_f28374c3f1_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/54805847@N06/5​503035729/  (external link)
LP-560 (external link) by Gafas de Nerd (external link), on Flickr

More detail:

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5054/5503035729_f28374c3f1_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/54805847@N06/5​503035729/  (external link)
LP-560 (external link) by Gafas de Nerd (external link), on Flickr


I spent about 3-3.5 hours doing this.


I did other things too besides just removing the light (i spent some time on the wheel/brake/tires/logo​s, sharpening, bring out detail in the tire/calipers, etc, and lightening that area) that took time, but it was exhausting removing that harsh sunlight.

I did this by using just a brush tool at a low opacity (20% or so) and I kept sampling colors that were on the same horizontal level (when I could). and then I would switch to the Clone Stamp to blend it. I repeating this, going between the tow for what felt like forever. It looked very flat (the panel and the color), so I had to choose a color a little darker to add to the top of the panel and I went down from the top drawing lines that got lighter and lighter to make the illusion of the panel being curved, and then spent forever with the clone stamp blending it into a smooth gradation. then I used the history brush (linked to the original image as it was wen I opened it), set it at a low opacity and a soft brush and brought back the reflection on the top left that show the fender line and I used it above the LP-560 badge to bring the darkness back from cloning it too lightly when blending in the mess I made.

I have a suspicion that I took the scenic route on this one.

I'm totally up for suggestions. As this was exhausting.



  
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Automotive Image Editing/Post-Processing: Before and After
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