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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 21 Mar 2011 (Monday) 10:33
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50D memory card slot. Pins pushed down

 
funkyfones
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Mar 23, 2011 10:42 |  #16

I'v got afew cameras that need pin assemblys replaced so will take afew pics and show you tonight of how it looks from the inside and how the pins come off their solder pads, I charge £60 so I'd say $100 ish should be right, give or take


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JuliusUpNorth
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Mar 23, 2011 13:16 |  #17

I managed to do this one morning to my 350D (still half asleep and did not notice I had the card backwards). If you push hard enough, you manage to bend all the pins!!

Anyway, I would recommend sending the body to Canon. I did, it was not that expensive, and now it works like a charm again.

JUlius




  
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amfoto1
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Mar 23, 2011 14:36 |  #18

First of all, you must format the cards in your camera before using them.

Normally you do not need to, nor should you, format your memory cards with Windows in your computer (or with any other operating system in any other computer). This sets a file structure that might or might not work in the camera. If you want to "wipe the card" in your computer, just move all the images off of it, or delete them (after transfer, of course).

Sometimes memory cards just get problematic. It might be that there's a corrupted sector or file on there. There are testing and repair applets in some of the memory card/image recovery softwares. For example, Lexar's Image Rescue includes an option to test and "fix" a cantankerous memory card. Search around online for a copy of this or Sandisk's equivalent software, or purchase one of the image recovery softwares that includes disk health test and repair functions.

What this does is "mark" any bad sector of the card so that the camera (and computer) ignore and work around it, as if it's not there. Most memory cards actually have some unused headroom in them so the size will still be the same, unless a lot of bad sectors have been "roped off" in this way.

In fact, brand new memory cards coming off the assembly line sometimes have a bad sector or two and the manufacturers run them through a program like this to mark those sectors in exactly the same manner. It might be that a bad sector on your card got "unmarked" and is causing the glitches.

But, I suspect the issues you are seeing are due to formatting the memory card in your computer. Try to avoid doing that. Only format the memory cards in camera, which will set the file structure the camera needs. Do this often. I format each card immediately, every time I install it in the camera. I currently have fourteen 8GB CF cards that I use regularly (and a bunch more smaller ones that I don't use so much any more)... I used 8 or 9 cards at a recent shoot (2800 shots that day, 18MP cameras) and formatted every one of them in-camera before use... it only takes 1 or 2 seconds. It wipes off any images, so be sure you have transferred any shots you want to keep.

It might be that after formatting in your computer the card can no longer be formatted in your camera, without first running it through one of those image recovery/memory card test and repair softwares.

Now, I'm not entirely ruling out that it might be a problem with the CF card pins in the camera... try to get a good look at them under a magnifier... also use a magnifying glass to inspect the end of your memory card, to see if any pins have been broken off and remained stuck in the socket on the card. And stop poking around inside your camera or you'll do damage that needs expensive, professional repair!


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hammmerhead
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Mar 23, 2011 21:06 |  #19

Thanks for all the replys. Well things go to another level of weird now. So I download the format program mentioned above. It doesnt recognize my flash drive at all. So I try another program called Kill all or something like that. It does its thing and takes about 10 minutes for a 4GB card. Still no luck when I try and format in the camera. So I grab my other 16GB card and put it in my reader and suddenly the computer cant see the CF, but can see the rest of the drives. I grab another XD card put it in the multi reader and it sees it fine. So now my even my computer cant "see" either CF card. I could understand if I had one card bite the dust, but for both to flake out at the same time like this is really strange. I certainly hope it turns out to that both cards are bad. I was thinking and my last shoot was in two big snows, but I didnt get the camera that wet. On top of that I have used it prob 3 weeks ago around the house. I mean I have had it in worse weather during storms. I am wondering if static could have killed them or maybe an airport Xray machine. Im just really baffled over this, but I will be dang happy if a new card fixes it.


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50D | 10-22 | 24-105L | 70-300 IS |SIGMA 30MM 1.4

  
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hammmerhead
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Mar 24, 2011 16:06 as a reply to  @ hammmerhead's post |  #20

Well tried my cards in a friends 7D and they worked fine. Guess I will be tearing into this thing or sending it back. Thanks for all the help friends and I will let you know what the outcome is.


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hammmerhead
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Mar 28, 2011 14:04 |  #21

I reset the pins that feed into the card and all is well now. It seems that one or more were not making contact. It was not an easy job I must say. I broke a mail connector that housed the wires for the auto focus. I soldered them directly to the board and it wasnt that big of a deal once I figure out which one went where. Some of the plastics are very brittle like the circuit tape locks where they attach to the boards. The flash capacitor will light your butt up even without a battery in the body. I got zapped 3 times and finally put a piece of tape over the bottom where it is attached to the base circuit board. Dont know how many volts it was, but I would sure hate to get hit from a bigger flash. Thanks for everyones help.


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funkyfones
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Mar 29, 2011 10:54 |  #22

Sorry I couldnt get you the wiring in time, been away from the workshop for a few days, good to see you sorted it, the caps are 250/300V and you can discharge them first by using a voltmeter on any of the DC voltage settings, connect the terminals coming out of the caps and hold for 10-20 secs, let the voltage come close to zero


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Mark_48
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Mar 29, 2011 12:28 |  #23

funkyfones wrote in post #12116462 (external link)
...... the caps are 250/300V and you can discharge them first by using a voltmeter on any of the resistor settings, connect the terminals coming out of the caps and hold for 10-20 secs, measure the voltage and repeat until its close to 0

Could you elaborate on what you mean by "resistor settings". I hope you don't mean the ohms range that is used measure resistance. Using the ohms setting of a meter to discharge caps would lead to damaging the meter or at the very least, popping a fuse within. I suspect you may have meant use a voltmeter range and let its own input resistance drain the caps(?) I just want to ensure that people reading this don't attempt using the ohmeter section of a VOM/DVM to discharge caps. My own personal preference is a well insulated resistor of about 20-47k with clip leads, but not everyone has this setting around on the bench.


Megapixels and high ISO are a digital photographers heroin. Once you have a little, you just want more and more. It doesn't stop until your bank account is run dry.

  
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hammmerhead
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Mar 29, 2011 14:01 |  #24

funkyfones wrote in post #12116462 (external link)
Sorry I couldnt get you the wiring in time, been away from the workshop for a few days, good to see you sorted it, the caps are 250/300V and you can discharge them first by using a voltmeter on any of the resistor settings, connect the terminals coming out of the caps and hold for 10-20 secs, measure the voltage and repeat until its close to 0

No worries Funkyfones and thanks for all your help. I got antsy wanting to get the thing done and knew there was a photo somewhere out there that would show the order. Luckily it all went well, but it was tricky soldering such tiny wires to the board and not over soldering and having it spill onto the next terminal. I used a sewing needle to hold down the terminal on the board and carefully used a tinytouch of solder.


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50D | 10-22 | 24-105L | 70-300 IS |SIGMA 30MM 1.4

  
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Oggy1
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Mar 29, 2011 15:44 |  #25

Mark_48 wrote in post #12117165 (external link)
Could you elaborate on what you mean by "resistor settings". I hope you don't mean the ohms range that is used measure resistance. Using the ohms setting of a meter to discharge caps would lead to damaging the meter or at the very least, popping a fuse within. I suspect you may have meant use a voltmeter range and let its own input resistance drain the caps(?) I just want to ensure that people reading this don't attempt using the ohmeter section of a VOM/DVM to discharge caps. My own personal preference is a well insulated resistor of about 20-47k with clip leads, but not everyone has this setting around on the bench.

Agreed. Great way to blow up your meter. Personally I tend to use a lightbulb of suitable voltage then check with a DVM on Volts.


Cheers, Oggy :)
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funkyfones
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Mar 29, 2011 19:07 |  #26

Crap, thanks for correcting, I meant test on 600/200V range and the internal resistance will discharge them, (if you dont have a suitable resistor around- for those that do you have suitable resistors around you prob dont even need to read this)

I was thinking about 'using a resistor to discharge' and 'using the voltage setting' and just went 'Has anyone really been far even as decided to use even go want to do look more like?'

corrected previous post


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endeavorscamera
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Apr 10, 2011 22:09 |  #27

If you need repair I can help. I specialize in fixing broken pins.
My website: www.camera-revivor.com (external link)
Thien Chau




  
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50D memory card slot. Pins pushed down
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