which galss and why ?
pls discuss
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sry about the topic if it already existed. could not find any.
Klamber Mostly Lurking ![]() 10 posts Joined Mar 2011 More info | Mar 26, 2011 15:30 | #1 which galss and why ? I am not always right, but I'm never wrong.
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viktorsundberg Member 218 posts Joined Aug 2010 Location: Sweden More info | Mar 28, 2011 09:07 | #2 Becasue 2,8 is still 2,8. If your subject is moving, you can have all the IS in the world, if you are one stop too slow, it will still become blurry. Also, DOF is better! What do you normally photograph? Do you need IS more than a larger aperture? Do you use tripods alot? 5D mk III | TS-E 17 f/4L | 50 f/1.4 | 70-200 f/2.8L IS II | 100 f/2.8L Macro IS | 300 f/2.8L IS | 600 f/4L IS II | 1.4x III | 2x III | Gitzo tripods | RRS ballheads | Wimberley gimbal
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musashi Senior Member 795 posts Joined Jul 2010 Location: Winchester, CA / San Diego, CA / North Hollywood, CA More info | Mar 28, 2011 09:31 | #3 Klamber wrote in post #12097880 ![]() which galss and why ? pls discuss --------------- sry about the topic if it already existed. could not find any.
“You can easily judge the character of a man by how he treats those who can do nothing for him.” --==Gear List & Feedback==--
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Mar 28, 2011 09:34 | #4 Here ya go. Website
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Mar 28, 2011 09:37 | #5 viktorsundberg wrote in post #12108194 ![]() Becasue 2,8 is still 2,8. If your subject is moving, you can have all the IS in the world, if you are one stop too slow, it will still become blurry. Also, DOF is better! What do you normally photograph? Do you need IS more than a larger aperture? Do you use tripods alot? 60D I am not always right, but I'm never wrong.
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Mar 28, 2011 09:38 | #6 thx! will read them right away I am not always right, but I'm never wrong.
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musashi Senior Member 795 posts Joined Jul 2010 Location: Winchester, CA / San Diego, CA / North Hollywood, CA More info | Mar 28, 2011 09:39 | #7 You already answered it. 2.8 is what you will probably need since you say dark lighting. IS cant stop movements. “You can easily judge the character of a man by how he treats those who can do nothing for him.” --==Gear List & Feedback==--
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bohdank Cream of the Crop ![]() 14,060 posts Likes: 6 Joined Jan 2008 Location: Montreal, Canada More info | Mar 28, 2011 11:15 | #8 But IS can stop camera shake. So, let's say shooting at ISO3200, 1/160s, f2.8.... Fast enough to stop casual motion but not fast enoguh to prevent camera shake. And if an F2 existed, it would not give enough DOF at 200mm, most likely,...so faster does not always mean better in low light. And IS is very useful in lower light when shutter speeds or on the bordeline between freezing action and freezing camera movement. Bohdan - I may be, and probably am, completely wrong.
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Snydremark my very own Lightrules moment More info | Mar 28, 2011 11:23 | #9 ^^ Agree there. I know cost is prohibitive for a lot, but for the situations you're describing the 2.8 IS is the lens you'll be needing. - Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife
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gotaudi Senior Member 720 posts Likes: 2 Joined Jan 2010 Location: Southern California More info | Mar 28, 2011 11:25 | #10 Try out the sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 OS its about the same price as the ones you listed, it has amazing image quality and the Optical stabilizer really helps out with camera shake in low light conditions. seriously its that good.
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IS cant stop movements No, but a one stop increase in ISO can give you the same shutter speed, at the cost of a little more noise. The tradeoffs are pretty clear, I think. The 4.0: Check out my photos at http://dkoretz.smugmug.com
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mikestarr Senior Member ![]() 370 posts Joined May 2010 Location: Charlotte, nc More info | Mar 28, 2011 11:45 | #12 paddler4 wrote in post #12109189 ![]() No, but a one stop increase in ISO can give you the same shutter speed, at the cost of a little more noise. The tradeoffs are pretty clear, I think. The 4.0: --costs a lot less --is smaller --weighs less than half as much (heft one before you buy) --costs you a stop So my take on it is that if you really need the extra speed or shallower DOF, the 2.8 is the way to go, but if those are less important than weight and $$ for other things, it's a bad choice. I use mine mostly hiking or with flash, and I was not concerned about narrower DOF, so the choice was clear--I bought the 4.0 and have never regretted it. For other uses, it would be different. E.g., one person I know does a lot of indoor candids without flash. For her, the weight and $$ of the 2.8 is well worth it. cant really argue with that...always wondered about the sigma spoken about above also though. T2i Gripped/17-50 non vc Tamron/55-250mm 4-5.6/50mm 1.8/Slik pro 700dx tripod
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musashi Senior Member 795 posts Joined Jul 2010 Location: Winchester, CA / San Diego, CA / North Hollywood, CA More info | Mar 28, 2011 12:12 | #13 bohdank wrote in post #12109042 ![]() But IS can stop camera shake. So, let's say shooting at ISO3200, 1/160s, f2.8.... Fast enough to stop casual motion but not fast enoguh to prevent camera shake. And if an F2 existed, it would not give enough DOF at 200mm, most likely,...so faster does not always mean better in low light. And IS is very useful in lower light when shutter speeds or on the bordeline between freezing action and freezing camera movement. I would not buy a longer lens that does not have IS if you often shoot in difficult (lower) light levels. paddler4 wrote in post #12109189 ![]() No, but a one stop increase in ISO can give you the same shutter speed, at the cost of a little more noise. The tradeoffs are pretty clear, I think. The 4.0: --costs a lot less --is smaller --weighs less than half as much (heft one before you buy) --costs you a stop So my take on it is that if you really need the extra speed or shallower DOF, the 2.8 is the way to go, but if those are less important than weight and $$ for other things, it's a bad choice. I use mine mostly hiking or with flash, and I was not concerned about narrower DOF, so the choice was clear--I bought the 4.0 and have never regretted it. For other uses, it would be different. E.g., one person I know does a lot of indoor candids without flash. For her, the weight and $$ of the 2.8 is well worth it.
“You can easily judge the character of a man by how he treats those who can do nothing for him.” --==Gear List & Feedback==--
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viktorsundberg Member 218 posts Joined Aug 2010 Location: Sweden More info | Mar 29, 2011 01:58 | #15 paddler4 wrote in post #12109189 ![]() No, but a one stop increase in ISO can give you the same shutter speed, at the cost of a little more noise. The tradeoffs are pretty clear, I think. The 4.0: --costs a lot less --is smaller --weighs less than half as much (heft one before you buy) --costs you a stop So my take on it is that if you really need the extra speed or shallower DOF, the 2.8 is the way to go, but if those are less important than weight and $$ for other things, it's a bad choice. I use mine mostly hiking or with flash, and I was not concerned about narrower DOF, so the choice was clear--I bought the 4.0 and have never regretted it. For other uses, it would be different. E.g., one person I know does a lot of indoor candids without flash. For her, the weight and $$ of the 2.8 is well worth it. You are comparing quality with convenience. Why would you trade more noise for less weight? To me, that sounds illogical. Two of the variables you are comparing are related to convenience, one is a cost issue (which of course is important for most people). The only thing that really matters to me is if you need that extra stop or not. When reading Klambers desription of what he is shooting, it really sounds like an extra stop would be a good thing. However, poker is not really like boxing when it comes to movement, so maybe the IS would work too 5D mk III | TS-E 17 f/4L | 50 f/1.4 | 70-200 f/2.8L IS II | 100 f/2.8L Macro IS | 300 f/2.8L IS | 600 f/4L IS II | 1.4x III | 2x III | Gitzo tripods | RRS ballheads | Wimberley gimbal
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