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FORUMS Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Small Compact Digitals by Canon 
Thread started 25 Mar 2011 (Friday) 19:55
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Show us your best with an SX220/230

 
garryknight
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Mar 25, 2011 19:55 |  #1

Following my contribution to a thread on "Best Choice for a high quality and compact Camera", I thought I'd start a thread for example photos of the Canon Powershot SX220 HS and its GPS-enabled cousin, the SX230 HS. I bought an SX220 a couple of days ago and after just a few hours use I feel that I made a good decision in getting this camera.

Here are a few of the shots from the above-mentioned thread to get us started. All of them are unprocessed; I imported them into Lightroom 2 simply in order to use Jeff Friedl's excellent Flickr uploader plugin; no post-processing was done - these are straight-out-of-camera jpegs.

OK, now let's see yours!


Who's the Smart One?
Demonstrates colours and street photography.

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Traditional Ice Cream
Typical SX220 colours.
IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5226/5559396139_eed3451d38_z.jpg
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Blossom Bokeh
This shows that if you zoom out and make sure your background is far enough away, you can get a nice subject separation from the blurred background.
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Bar Across the River
This bar is across the River Thames, about 900 feet away from where I was standing. If you look at the photo at the original size, you can see that you would be able to recognise a person. This is why they call it 'superzoom'.
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Edit: I've now also uploaded a 1920x1080 sample video (external link) to YouTube.

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Mar 30, 2011 09:58 |  #2

This post demonstrates the range of colour settings you can get from the Canon XS220 HS. I've placed them roughly in order of increasing colour saturation. The first four settings can be changed by pressing the Func Set key and choosing My Colors.

Colour Settings: Neutral

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Colour Settings: Positive Film
IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5030/5574153678_830a0f6947_z.jpg
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Colour Settings: Vivid
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Colour Settings: My Colours Custom
In this one, I chose the Custom setting in My Colors and increased the Saturation to maximum. It's about as saturated as the Vivid setting, but looks slightly more saturated to me, at least in this picture.
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Colour Settings: Super Vivid
This one can't be found in the My Colors settings, it's in the Effects settings. The icon is the two overlapping circles, between the SCN icon and the video icon. As you can see, in this type of shot the effect is too much. But that doesn't mean that it's unusable.
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Super Vivid: Balloon Clowns
Given the right subject, the Super Vivid effect can be put to good use:
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Garry Knight
http://www.flickr.com/​photos/garryknight/ (external link)
Fuji X-E2, FX 16mm f/2.8, FX 27mm f/2.8; FC 35mm f/2, FX 85mm f/1.8,
FC 15-45mm, FC 50-230mm; Takumar 55mm f/1.8, Fuji X30, Sony RX100M7, and an iPhone 13 Pro Max.

  
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Mar 30, 2011 10:04 |  #3

This post demonstrates the SX220's Toy Camera Effect. It seems that the camera manufacturers have noticed the demand for apps like Hipstamatic on the iPhone and Vignette on Android phones, and are beginning to move into that market. The SX220 only has one Toy Camera effect, but it has 3 colour settings: Neutral, Warm, and Cool.

Tulips might not be the best Toy Camera subject, but I couldn't get anyone to stand still long enough to take three pictures of them while I fiddled around with the settings...

Toy Camera: Neutral

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Toy Camera: Warm
IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5051/5574160860_4f7cbc1374_z.jpg
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Toy Camera: Cool
IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5304/5574162018_d2b9059403_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …s/garryknight/5​574162018/  (external link)


The Warm setting is interesting, in that it gives a sort of old-fashioned sepia effect but retaining some of the original colour. And it can look good if you find a suitable subject.

Toy Camera: Pavement Artist
The Warm setting can make certain scenes look almost timeless. Though this guy's trainers give the game away.
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Toy Camera: Old Camera
This Minolta RB XG-1 camera, dating from 1970, was in the window of London Transport's Lost Property Office and is, in my opinion, a fitting subject for this setting.
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Toy Camera: Sherlock Holmes Museum
A mixture of old and new: people outside the Sherlock Holmes Museum at 221B Baker Street, complete with old-fasioned policeman.
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Toy Camera: The Globe
The theatre built on the site of Shakespeare's original Globe Theatre.
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Toy Camera: Charlie
The epitome of a bygone era: Charlie Chaplin. This guy is the best performer on London's South Bank, in my opinion. Were it not for the '2011' and the clothes of the people in the background, this shot would also be not so easy to date.
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Garry Knight
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Fuji X-E2, FX 16mm f/2.8, FX 27mm f/2.8; FC 35mm f/2, FX 85mm f/1.8,
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Mar 30, 2011 10:11 |  #4

The SX220 has a Miniature Effect - another example of camera manufacturers serving the demand of the public. You can adjust the position and width of the in-focus area, and this area rotates from horizontal to vertical as you rotate the camera, so you can take both landscape and portrait-format diorama effect photos.

The results are pretty good but I haven't yet found a good place to take a suitable photo. When I do, I'll edit this post.

But this effect doesn't only have to be used to create dioramas. If you get the positioning and width of the in-focus area right, you can get effective shots of other subjects.

Statue: Normal
This statue tends to blend into the background.

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IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …s/garryknight/5​573584251/  (external link)

Statue: Miniature Mode
Taking the shot in Miniature Mode makes the statue stand out a little more from the background. The effect isn't as good as using Av mode with a wide aperture and a distant background, and it's nowhere near as good as you can get with a DSLR, but I feel it's worth experimenting with.
IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5141/5574171842_6e6b0e33eb_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …s/garryknight/5​574171842/  (external link)

One other interesting point about Miniature Mode, at least with the above two pictures: the one I took in Av mode came out with a file size of 5,678 KB, while the Miniature Mode shot came out at 2,139 KB. I thought the Miniature Mode was supposed to make your subject look miniature, not your file sizes..

Miniature Mode: St Paul's
With objects nearby that you can use as a frame within a frame, and that are likely to blur out when you aim at a distant subject, you can alost achieve a kind of radial blur effect. The in-focus area here is horizontal and quite narrow.
IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5051/5574172666_c27df6cde0_z.jpg
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Miniature Mode: Wait For A Boat
In this shot the narrow in-focus area picks out the people nicely and gives the shot a slightly dreamy feeling while at the same time not turning the people into miniature models.
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Garry Knight
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Fuji X-E2, FX 16mm f/2.8, FX 27mm f/2.8; FC 35mm f/2, FX 85mm f/1.8,
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Mar 30, 2011 10:14 |  #5

There are twelve different SCN modes on the SX220 and 7 of them you could duplicate yourself by going manual and changing other settings such as White Balance, colour settings, ISO and Ev. One of those is Beach Mode.

Tyre on Beach: My Settings
Here's how this shot came out when I used Av mode and increased the colour saturation, contrast, and sharpening.

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Tyre on Beach: Beach Mode
The camera took care of all the settings in this one and did a good job, even on a bright, sunny day. Apart from my getting part of a railing in the bottom of the frame, both are acceptable shots. My settings preserved a little more detail in the sand while the camera's settings preserved a little more detail in the tyre.

Both of these are straight-out-of-camera shots, imported into Lightroom simply for batch-uploading: Lightroom hasn't changed a thing, not even sharpness. But even in Lightroom, both photos would need minimum processing - perhaps some luminance noise reduction (there's very little chroma noise with this camera, given sufficient light), some Chromatic Aberration adjustment (noticeable at full zoom, even in this picture seen at 1:1), and some sharpening.
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Garry Knight
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Fuji X-E2, FX 16mm f/2.8, FX 27mm f/2.8; FC 35mm f/2, FX 85mm f/1.8,
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Apr 04, 2011 10:47 |  #6

Dog Tired

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Modern Quartet
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Glass Melts Buildings
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Garry Knight
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Fuji X-E2, FX 16mm f/2.8, FX 27mm f/2.8; FC 35mm f/2, FX 85mm f/1.8,
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Apr 07, 2011 12:29 |  #7

Here are some more sample photos, this time demonstrating the digital zoom quality. I took the SX220 to the north bank of the River Thames, put it on my tripod, and aimed it at the London Eye. I took the pictures with a 10-second delay in Av mode with an aperture of f/8 for maximum stability and detail. I let the camera take care of shutter speed and ISO though, on reflection, I probably should have fixed the ISO at 100.

No post-processing was done to any of the photos. I imported them into Lightroom, which made no adjustments at all other than adding some keywords and a copyright, then I uploaded them using Jeff Friedl's excellent Flickr uploader plugin.

I started out by taking photos at the extremes of the optical range, 28mm and 392mm, then I took a couple using the SX220's "Digital Tele-Extender" mode; this seems to digitally crop and upsample part of the picture so that you get the effect of magnifying the optical zoom by 1.5 times and 2.0 times. Lastly I switched to standard digital zoom and took a picture with maximum optical + digital zoom: an effective focal length of (28 x 56) 1,568mm.

To really get an idea of how good (or not) the SX220 is when zoomed, you'll probably want to click each picture to go to Flickr and look at the photo at its original size.

SX220 Sample: Eye 28mm

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5103/5597849557_646428b04c_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …ight/5597849557​/in/stream  (external link)
1/640 sec @ f/8, ISO 160
There is a lot of purple and green chromatic aberration because the picture was taken on a bright, sunny, contrasty day. There is also a lot of barrel distortion at this focal length. And you'll see some of the luminance noise typical of this camera. Of course: it's a compact.

SX220 Sample: Eye 392mm
IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5103/5597851169_78e3613cda_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …arryknight/5597​851169/in/  (external link)
1/500 sec @ f/8, ISO 200
The chromatic aberration is still there. There doesn't seem to be a lot of pincushion distortion but it's not easy to tell with a photo like this one. It's still noisy but you could get reasonable prints out of it as long as they're not too large. Viewing it at 1024x768 size shows that the picture is still fairly crisp.

SX220 Sample: Eye 1.5x Tele-Converter
IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5263/5597852253_8b35655255_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …ight/5597852253​/in/stream  (external link)
1/500 sec @ f/8, ISO 250
Viewed at 640x480 you can see that the SX220 has done quite a good job interpolating the picture up to an effective focal length of 588mm. At 1024x768 you can see that it's started to lose a bit of detail. Viewing it at the original size shows how much detail it's lost; it looks like the photo was taken at a high ISO.

SX220 Sample: Eye 2x Tele-Converter
IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5229/5597854261_f60e39904f_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …ight/5597854261​/in/stream  (external link)
1/500 sec @ f/8, ISO 200
Viewed at 640x480 there's still a lot of detail present, and at 1024x768 the results seem as good with the 2x digital tele-converter mode as they do with the 1.5x. This is giving us an efl of 392x2 = 784mm. There aren't many DSLR lenses that will give you that.

SX220 Sample: Eye Full Digital Zoom
IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5302/5598436476_fca57ed57e_z.jpg
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1/500 sec @ f/8, ISO 320
This last one was taken with the full optical zoom - 392mm - plus full digital zoom - which the camera reports as 56x. This gives us an effective focal length of 1,568mm. On a DSLR you'd need an 800mm lens fitted to a 2x extender. And you'd get much better results than the SX220 can achieve, as you'd expect. Looking at this photo at 640x480 you can see that it's messy. And this was taken with the camera on a tripod. It hardly seems worth anyone's time using standard digital zoom on this camera.

Summing up
Whether or not you decide to use digital zoom at all on this camera might depend on whether or not you intend to print your photos. I'm happy to use it while out in the field in order to zoom in even further while viewing a picture, perhaps in cases where I'm not entirely sure what's going on in the far background. In other words, as a kind of spotting scope. And this is probably about the only use for digital zoom, even if you don't print your photos, unless you only intend them to be viewed at one fixed size. If that's the case, and if that fixed size is not too large, I think you'll find the results you get with the tele-converter function crisp and detailed enough. Other than that, I'd say don't bother with it. But hats off to Canon for getting such good results in a compact camera.

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Fuji X-E2, FX 16mm f/2.8, FX 27mm f/2.8; FC 35mm f/2, FX 85mm f/1.8,
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Apr 13, 2011 10:53 |  #8

Some more samples: handheld and tripod-mounted night shots. The two handheld shots were taken in Av mode, using the widest aperture allowed at the particular zoom level, and leaving the camera to choose the shutter speed. The three tripod shots were taken in Manual mode for 15 seconds at f/8; the camera only seems to allow ISO 100 in Manual mode, unless I'm missing something.

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5110/5616032987_0b2bacffe6_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …5616032987/in/p​hotostream  (external link)
1/3 sec @ f/4.5, ISO 400, hand-held
In Av mode, I not only let the camera choose the shutter speed, I let it choose the ISO. At this shutter speed, the water looks as you'd expect, with plenty of ripples and waves.

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5230/5616034769_8c7da33d51_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …5616034769/in/p​hotostream  (external link)
15 sec @ f/8, ISO 100, tripod
You can see how using f/8 has turned the lights into star shapes. Six points means that the SX220's shutter has six blades.

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5262/5616036651_f127d63143_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …5616036651/in/p​hotostream  (external link)
15 sec @ f/8, ISO 100, tripod
Here you can see how the long shutter time has flattened out the waves and ripples; the water looks like glass.

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5143/5616038403_798894b92f_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …5616038403/in/p​hotostream  (external link)
15 sec @ f/8, ISO 100, tripod
I think the camera knows when you're taking a night shot as each one taken at 15 seconds takes a further 15 seconds to process the result, even if you're using Manual mode rather than the built-in low light modes. You can not only see the smoothing of the water but the bridge and buildings, while quite detailed, also look quite smooth.

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5222/5616623024_6d42506932_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …5616623024/in/p​hotostream  (external link)
1/3 sec @ f/3.5, ISO 1600, hand-held
For this one I set the ISO to 1600 manually and waited until some people walked into the shot. Even at 1/3 of a second, you can see that there is some motion blur.


Edit
I thought you might like to see an example of the Hanheld Night Scene mode. I took this in London's Clink Street, near the museum dedicated to the famous Clink Prison. As you can see, if there are people in the scene, you will more than likely get some motion blur, but everything that is stationary will be fairly crisp.

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Fuji X-E2, FX 16mm f/2.8, FX 27mm f/2.8; FC 35mm f/2, FX 85mm f/1.8,
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Apr 14, 2011 13:39 as a reply to  @ garryknight's post |  #9

Thanks for all the test images with this camera. By the way, in case you were not aware, the reason your 15 seconds shots take 30 seconds is called "dark frame subtraction". For longer exposures your camera takes a second exposure with the lens closed, and subtracts it from the original shot. The idea is to identify noise and hot pixels and eliminate them. For my G11, any shots over 1.3 seconds will have this process applied. I'm guessing your camera follows the same rules. That's why longer exposures will take twice as long to complete.

Also, if you are concerned about noise in the images, then consider some software. I use Noiseware Pro, but there is a free version called the Community edition (external link) for Windows from Noiseware. (scroll down to bottom to see it)

Dennis




  
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Apr 14, 2011 16:08 |  #10

Thanks for your feedback. I know about dark frame subtraction; I was surprised that the camera would do it in Manual mode as opposed to one of the low-light scene modes.

As for noise, Lightroom handles it nicely with photos I shoot with my 40D but the SX220 has a strange kind of noise of its own that I haven't yet identified but that I suspect is to do with the sharpening algorithm.


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May 05, 2011 18:16 |  #11

Would be really nice to see some shots from other users of the SX220. In the meantime, I'll post one now and again as a sample of what the camera is capable of. Here's one I took in the Kyoto Garden in Holland Park in London:

Japanese Maple

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Garry Knight
http://www.flickr.com/​photos/garryknight/ (external link)
Fuji X-E2, FX 16mm f/2.8, FX 27mm f/2.8; FC 35mm f/2, FX 85mm f/1.8,
FC 15-45mm, FC 50-230mm; Takumar 55mm f/1.8, Fuji X30, Sony RX100M7, and an iPhone 13 Pro Max.

  
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garryknight
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May 20, 2011 09:32 |  #12

Sunlit Dome

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The Royal Pavilion in Brighton, England

Garry Knight
http://www.flickr.com/​photos/garryknight/ (external link)
Fuji X-E2, FX 16mm f/2.8, FX 27mm f/2.8; FC 35mm f/2, FX 85mm f/1.8,
FC 15-45mm, FC 50-230mm; Takumar 55mm f/1.8, Fuji X30, Sony RX100M7, and an iPhone 13 Pro Max.

  
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May 31, 2011 07:36 |  #13

High Jinks

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A couple of young guys pretending to throw a young woman from the top of a stone lion at Trafalgar Square.

Garry Knight
http://www.flickr.com/​photos/garryknight/ (external link)
Fuji X-E2, FX 16mm f/2.8, FX 27mm f/2.8; FC 35mm f/2, FX 85mm f/1.8,
FC 15-45mm, FC 50-230mm; Takumar 55mm f/1.8, Fuji X30, Sony RX100M7, and an iPhone 13 Pro Max.

  
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jfueng
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Jun 03, 2011 11:21 |  #14

garryknight wrote in post #12446114 (external link)
Sunlit Dome
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IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …5739527371/in/p​hotostream  (external link)
The Royal Pavilion in Brighton, England

Nice colors! Did you do much processing or did it come out of the camera like this?




  
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Jun 03, 2011 12:49 |  #15

I applied a little Fill Light to bring out some detail and I added a slight yellow/red 2-tone effect using Lightroom. Most of my SX220 photos don't need much post-processing but with this one I wanted to make the photo look more like the way the light was at the time.


Garry Knight
http://www.flickr.com/​photos/garryknight/ (external link)
Fuji X-E2, FX 16mm f/2.8, FX 27mm f/2.8; FC 35mm f/2, FX 85mm f/1.8,
FC 15-45mm, FC 50-230mm; Takumar 55mm f/1.8, Fuji X30, Sony RX100M7, and an iPhone 13 Pro Max.

  
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