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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 05 Apr 2011 (Tuesday) 08:31
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Mark III Focus Problems - Please Help!!!

 
Pipernails
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Apr 05, 2011 14:55 |  #16

Thanks for the tip! I'll give that a shot. Any advice for shooting black jerseys?




  
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Palladium
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Apr 05, 2011 15:01 |  #17

Pipernails wrote in post #12164051 (external link)
Thanks for the tip! I'll give that a shot. Any advice for shooting black jerseys?

use the top center point focus point and keep that on the subjects head.

some shooters only use center point focus point and on non 1 series cameras that gives the best focus but with 1 series cameras don't be afraid to use off center focus points.

I think I went the entire football season using the top center points.




  
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cputeq007
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Apr 05, 2011 16:13 |  #18

While I'm not a 1D3 pro, I will say right off you may seriously consider getting out of surrounding focus-assist points. It may be your camera isn't grabbing onto the black jerseys (difficult subject) and it's grabbing the next-best thing, which may be the green/dirt borders or fence line - other places of contrast near the original point.

If you really want expansion, try using left-right expansion and like someone else said, use the off-center points, they're also good.


Also, how close are you to the action? How big is the AF box in relation to the player's heads? If the AF indicator is covering the players' entire heads (meaning you're a bit away from the action), it's quite possible the AF sensor(s) is drifting off the intended subjects and onto the next best thing (because you have expansion), which will be the background.

Best of luck!


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Pipernails
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Apr 05, 2011 18:14 as a reply to  @ cputeq007's post |  #19

Thanks for all the advice!

Quick question: If I get out of the surrounding focus-assist points like you recommend, and instead use one manually selected focus point (center, top, etc.), will I need to be absolutely spot on with the subject in order for it to be in focus? For example, if I am photographing baseball and I'm trying to capture a stolen base at second, if my focus is on the shortstop covering the bag, will the sliding runner also be in focus? Or would that depend more on my aperture/depth of field?

Also, with respect to football, if I am using one manually selected auto focus point without the surrounding assist, will players other than the one I am tracking be in focus as well? (ie. if I focus on the running back coming through the line of scrimmage, will the lineman and defense be in focus too?)




  
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cputeq007
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Apr 05, 2011 19:17 |  #20

Having multiple points in focus is going to be a function of your depth of field.

In your case, the things that are going to change depth of field are distance to the subjects, focal length, and aperture. You'll still need to be in focus on your intended subject, but given the appropriate conditions, your focal plane may be deep enough to also include other elements in focus, meaning players further away from one another might be in focus, or they may not. Depends on their angle in relation to one another and the focal plane.

Because we don't know these variables, we have no idea if your examples will be in focus or not. Having expansion enabled or not will have nothing to do with "being able to get these in focus or not", but where the camera is going to move and try to focus. Expansion only happens when the camera can't focus on the intended target, and then it attempts to focus what's under whatever expansion point it's picked.

Don't think that because you're "only" using 1 focus point you'll have a less-shallow focal plane or something, that's not how it really works. The displays you sometimes see with P&S or even DSLRs in "auto" single shot mode, where lots of boxes light up, is a bit misleading - the camera is just reporting other in-focus elements it sees in the focal plane it's chosen from the original focus box / square - those "multiple points" don't actually mean the camera is focusing in several places at once.

You'll typically see lots of boxes light up with P&S because they have huge field depths compared to larger cameras.


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HighPixel
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Apr 05, 2011 19:22 |  #21

Other players will not likely to be in focus, depending on your distance and aperture...only if they are on the same focal plane will they be in focus..
I always shoot with the center focus point and will get @ 9/10 frames locked in with my MkIII...even on black jerseys...
Take a look at this set of my son with black clothing on...There is one that is clearly OOF but I think it's due to his arm coming into play.
http://www.flickr.com …38074050/with/5​593298347/ (external link)


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| Canon EOS-5DMk.II / BG-E6 | Canon 70-200 2.8LIS Mk.II | 24-70 2.8L | 16-35 2.8LII | Just all kinds of crap...|RonBaltazar.com (external link)

  
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DarthVader
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Apr 05, 2011 19:23 |  #22

Try Nikon.


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svarley
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Apr 06, 2011 12:25 |  #23

Here are some Canon reading materials to help you understand your camera.

http://dl.dropbox.com/​u/2657063/User%20Manua​ls.zip (external link)

I can't find them anymore on the Canon site, so I stuck them on dropbox for your reading enjoyment. I think your issues can be cured with a little more understanding on how the camera works, so read away!




  
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jase1125
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Apr 06, 2011 13:22 |  #24

svarley wrote in post #12170174 (external link)
Here are some Canon reading materials to help you understand your camera.

http://dl.dropbox.com/​u/2657063/User%20Manua​ls.zip (external link)

I can't find them anymore on the Canon site, so I stuck them on dropbox for your reading enjoyment. I think your issues can be cured with a little more understanding on how the camera works, so read away!

Thanks for sharing those guides. I found them helpful :)


Jason

  
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svarley
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Apr 06, 2011 23:14 |  #25

Glad to hear it. The 1d3 is a beast of a camera, but the more I use it the more I like it. I got mine in November.

I can't wait till Canon releases a 1d5 so I can upgrade to a 1d4. :D




  
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sonnyc
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Apr 06, 2011 23:48 |  #26

My 1DMKIII has been to Canon 3 times as well. The last time, just a couple of months ago, they replaced the whole mirror assembly and "adjusted" all things up to factory specs.

I still get a few OOF frames at full burst.

if Canon is still honoring the refurbished unit for replacement, I'd jump on it. It's the best deal now.


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Joe ­ Cyr
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Apr 08, 2011 08:19 |  #27

A refurbished unit is not going to guarantee you are getting one without issues. I got my refurbished unit in 2009 and it had to be sent in two times for the AF fixes (free) and is now back there for an unrelated problem (not free).


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macroshot
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Apr 08, 2011 09:54 as a reply to  @ Joe Cyr's post |  #28

When I purchased my 1D3 I received a few links from the previous owner to help with understanding the camera ~ this link with connections to the actual reasons for using one setting or another helped me tweak the body for rugby in particular, but also allows me to go in to the menus and set up for just about anything, whenever I want/need to.

You'll notice it was Palladium who was the original source for this back in 2007 (a full 2 years before I bought mine! :))
https://photography-on-the.net …php?p=3553659&p​ostcount=2

One other thing that I have learned along the way is to make sure you "prime" the AF when in AI Servo. I found that tip in a previous discussion in the 1D3 thread - it makes a HUGE difference in how the AF tracks. To bring that point home, I was shooting my daughter's rugby tournament this past weekend and there were a few times when I was following the action through the viewfinder but failed to prime it before shooting. Consequently, I have a few OOF shots that were great tackles.

FWIW, I tend to use shutter priority when shooting the games and rarely use the burst modes (I hate going through all those images :)) I did send my body in last summer for a check up just to make sure everything was OK and to have documentation in case I wanted to sell. Canon paid for the entire trip.

Here is another massive library of 1D3 information to peruse:
https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=314318

Hope some of this is helpful to you. Of course none of this will do much good if the body itself is the issue, but if they are willing to hand over a refurb then the choice if probably pretty clear. And like Nick mentioned ~ with a warranty period (90 days like their other stuff.)

Hank


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namasste
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Apr 08, 2011 11:27 |  #29

macroshot wrote in post #12183001 (external link)
One other thing that I have learned along the way is to make sure you "prime" the AF when in AI Servo. I found that tip in a previous discussion in the 1D3 thread - it makes a HUGE difference in how the AF tracks.
Hank

Hank, this is really interesting and something I had not heard but kind of experienced. I notice that when I turn mine on and shoot (servo or one-shot), I need to fire a frame or two before the camera starts really nailing the focus. Is that what you are referring to?


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cputeq007
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Apr 08, 2011 11:58 |  #30

I'm not sure what "priming" is when Hank says it, but when I Servo with my 1D3, sometimes I'll mash AF-On, let it focus for a bit, then release and AF-ON again to start tracking, which is sorta what priming is in the real world.

I haven't done any real testing to see if it actually works for better tracking, but maybe.

Then again, it may not be the camera that's tracking better but me - after my initial AF-On "segment" I'm probably tracking my subject a bit smoother and it gives the camera an easier time of tracking as well.


Also, I've strongly considered doing tests to see just how "fast" my 100-400 is at AI-Servo...seems to me the lens isn't fast enough to give me 10 FPS focused unless it's just a slow moving object...I've registered my "H" speed at 7FPS for now and it seems to work fine, but still some OOF frames mostly due to difficult subjects (distant / fast birds)


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Mark III Focus Problems - Please Help!!!
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