If you want to shoot high magnifications, you are going to need some working room. A wide angle macro would generally put you way too close to the subject.
Canon EF 20mm f2.8 lens at f11 or f16, with 12mm macro extension tube.
EOS-3 Camera, shutter speed unrecorded. Handheld.
Kodak Ektachrome E100VS Slide film, scanned with Nikon EF4000.
I think this is the right shot... it's from some years ago and I had to dig in my archives for it. If it's the one I'm thinking of, it's considerably less than 1:1 magnification macro shot, but was made with a 20mm lens on a film camera, where it's a very wide lens (Film = full frame... On a crop camera a 12 or 13mm lens would give similar angle of view).
It's not a macro lens, so I added a 12mm macro extension tube behind the lens to allow it to focus closer. The petal of the flower was touching the front lens element! Any closer than this and it would have been impossible to focus. The goal of this shot was to better retain background detail in a macro shot, although it still goes pretty soft. Normally there would be even less detail.
Normally I use a 100mm macro lens, on both crop and full frame cameras. Another I use for handheld shooting is a compact 90mm. I also have a 180mm macro lens, but mostly use that on full frame. It's a bit long and difficult to work with on a crop sensor camera.
Out in the field I don't particularly like to work with shorter than 90 or 100mm macro lenses. A 50mm or shorter would put me right on top of my subject, where I might cast an unwanted shadow or scare away living critters.
There are exceptions... I use a 45mm Tilt Shift for near macro close-ups, on a crop sensor camea, for small product shots in studio. This is a different situation. I want to be close enough that I can reach out and rearrange the inanimate subject while keeping my eye to the viewfinder. And since I'm working with studio lighting I don't have any problems with unwanted shadows.
Following isn't macro, but was shot with Canon 100mm f2.8 USM macro lens...
Amaryllis or "belladonna lily".
EF 100mm f2.8 USM Macro lens. Aperture setting unrecorded.
EOS-3 camera. Shutter speed unrecorded.
Ektachrome E100VS film. Scanned with Nikon EF4000.
As a rule, when someone asks me about shooting macro I usually suggest a lens in the 90mm to 105mm range to learn with... That's just the easiest to use for all purpose close-up shooting and there are a number of good ones to choose among. There are some good 60mm and 70mm, too, but I wouldn't want to go much shorter for field work. If shooting full frame, then a 150mm or 180mm might be useful, but I generally don't recommend such a long lens with crop cameras.
Of course, for some "portraits" you want an even longer lens to have plenty of working distance from the subject, especially when it doesn't feel like having its picture taken...
California ebony tarantula.
EF 180mm f3.5L macro lens, aperture setting unrecorded.
EOS-3 camera, shutter speed setting unrecorded.
Ektachrome E100VS film, scanned with Nikon ED4000.
If your goal is unusually deep depth of field in macro shots, check out "focus stacking" at www.heliconsoftware.com.