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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 14 Apr 2011 (Thursday) 02:23
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Shutter and flash not synchronised [EOS 50D]

 
Mark2Mark
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Apr 14, 2011 10:23 |  #16

Sounds like the preflash is firing, but not the main flash.


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SkipD
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Apr 14, 2011 11:16 |  #17

If the camera were mine and still in warranty, I'd consider sending it in for repair. Otherwise, I'd be likely to super-glue the built-in flash shut and simply get and use a Speedlite when needed.


Skip Douglas
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..... but still learning all the time.

  
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sakisf
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Apr 14, 2011 12:26 |  #18

If the camera is not in guarantee you might have to take it to a Canon repairman to check the flash capacitor for leaking/failing. If the previous owner had it stored somewhere humid this might be a good reason for flash failure.




  
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Even92LN
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Hatchling
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Apr 14, 2011 12:46 as a reply to  @ sakisf's post |  #19

OK, thank you for all trying to help! :) I will see if I can find someone who can repair it for me, I'm afraid the guarantee is out... Hope it's a quick and not too expencive job, because it would be great if I could use the camera indoor without carrying an external flash everywhere ..




  
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amfoto1
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Apr 14, 2011 13:09 |  #20

Frankly, your second shot just looks like the flash wasn't fully recharged.

Those built-in flashes are pretty worthless anyway.... They are weak and under-powered, pretty slow recycling, in about the worst possible place for redeye and ugly shadows, often are blocked partially if using larger diameter lens hoods.... and they gobbble up your main battery charge.

Best to just get an accessory flash. It will be much nicer to use! Even the little 220/230/270EX is a big improvement over any built-in flash. 420/430EX are even nicer.

If I could, I'd send you the built-in flash off any my cameras that have them. I can't recall the last time I used one. I probably wouldn't even notice if it wasn't working for some reason.


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5DII, 7DII(x2), 7D(x2) & other cameras. 10-22mm, Tokina 12-24/4, 20/2.8, TS 24/3.5L, 24-70/2.8L, 28/1.8, 28-135 IS (x2), TS 45/2.8, 50/1.4, Tamron 60/2.0, 70-200/4L IS, 70-200/2.8 IS, 85/1.8, Tamron 90/2.5 Macro, 100/2.8 USM, 100-400L II, 135/2L, 180/3.5L, 300/4L IS (x2), 300/2.8L IS, 500/4L IS, EF 1.4X II, EF 2X II. Flashes, studio strobes & various access. - FLICKR (external link) - ZENFOLIO (external link)

  
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sakisf
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Apr 14, 2011 13:45 |  #21

If repair would cost you more than 50USD (it involves camera casing disassembly) you can always get a cheap Minolta Auto 118x (about 10USD on ebay) and use it on manual setting with the flash calculator on the back! It is pocketable and extremely light (about 150-200g with 2xAA batteries), would not hurt your camera with excessive voltage too. That's what I am using on my 350D with Minolta flange.




  
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Mark_48
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Apr 14, 2011 14:09 as a reply to  @ sakisf's post |  #22

I did a Google search for similar problems. One of the hits hinted that the shutter itself may have timing problems, rather than the flash. If this is the case an external flash may have sync problems as well(?) Maybe taking the camera to a store and trying an external flash for a number of shots may reveal a little more of a problem.


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number ­ six
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Apr 14, 2011 17:33 |  #23

This doesn't look like sync problems - that would give you a partial frame that's black.

The second shot is underexposed about one stop, looks like to me. Maybe 1-1/2. But it's evenly illuminated.

If that scene is indoors, the settings (ISO 320, 1/100 at f/5.6) would have been black if the flash didn't operate.

It looks to me like the flash didn't have enough time to recharge for the second shot. It *should* recharge in 10 seconds, but not with a weak battery.

So the battery is my guess.

-js


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Even92LN
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Apr 15, 2011 10:32 as a reply to  @ number six's post |  #24

I found an old "Vivitar Electronic Flash 2000" and tried to attach it to the 50D.
http://www.daphotograp​hy.com/products/flashe​s/flash7.htm (external link)

It fit and works, and now the flash lit up every picture I take, wich means that the problem is the built-in flash and not the shutter timing. The other problem now is that this old flash need 15 seconds to recharge between each photo, so I think I will go for a new one.

I also found that when I use the live view mode on the camera, the built-in flash works like a sharm! It affects every picture I take - even with continuous shooting! But when I exit the live view mode, without changing any settings, it's like before - only a few pictures where I can see that the flash have been used.




  
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RTPVid
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Apr 15, 2011 11:44 |  #25

I haven't looked up the flash model you have, so this is a general caution about older flashes with new cameras. Be aware of the trigger voltage of the flash and the highest trigger voltage your camera can safely tolerate (without frying the internal electronics). If it has already worked, you are PROBABLY OK, but here is an article on the issue (external link).


Tom

  
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Overkill-F1
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Apr 15, 2011 21:32 |  #26

Here is another good site to check the trigger voltage of flashes.
http://www.botzilla.co​m/photo/strobeVolts.ht​ml (external link)
...Terry


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sakisf
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Apr 16, 2011 03:06 as a reply to  @ Overkill-F1's post |  #27

I think that doesn't apply to cameras newer than EOS 300D & 10D. But in order to be safe I guess you should go with the table or even check the flash yourself. I am using Minolta 118X, 132X, 280PX (thyristor) with success, but they are all low voltage. If the external flash goes when you click the shutter, then I guess you should get your camera to a technician to check the capacitor in the camera, replace it if needed in order to avoid electrocution/leakage.




  
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Shutter and flash not synchronised [EOS 50D]
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