Infrared (IR) Image gallery

Acamacho wrote in post #12399563
Hehe yea I didn't realize it was my shadow until I reviewed the photos at home. I do think having that area dark seems to balance the image better, so not all bad.

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …excaliber2013/5​714393307/
IMG_3110 by Excaliber2013, on Flickr

Yes, I agree...having some darkness on that side helps to balance the photo.

LOVE the one with the trees above! Nice shot! I can't wait to figure out what body I'm going to go with for IR! Things are greening up here in the mountains...the perfect time to be shooting IR in the middle of the day!!

IR landscape

Canon 40D, converted to IR, Sigma 10-20mm, 1/200,f/10, ISO 100

sgstandard68.smugmug.c​om

HOSTED PHOTO
please log in to view hosted photos in full size.

For all of you that have sent in your camera to be converted, did you send in a lens that you knew you were most likely going to use the most with it? I am about to send in a 30D to lifepixel and they said that after they convert it to IR the autofocusing can be a little different so they recommend sending in a lens with it for best results. What do you guys think, would it really make that big of a difference?

rambotk3 wrote in post #12423966
For all of you that have sent in your camera to be converted, did you send in a lens that you knew you were most likely going to use the most with it? I am about to send in a 30D to lifepixel and they said that after they convert it to IR the autofocusing can be a little different so they recommend sending in a lens with it for best results. What do you guys think, would it really make that big of a difference?

Kind of depends on what you're going to shoot. If its big landscapes or "scenes" in general then you probably wont see much difference. I usually stop down to f/9, shift the focus back from the infinity stop a fraction and shoot away.
If you're going to be taking images of things fairly close, plants for example then you may notice a problem. You can always get round it by switching to manual focus and over time getting used to where the focus actually is versus where the focus appears to be in the viewfinder (I *think* the IR plane of focus lies behind the subject - i.e. further away from you than the visible light plane of focus - but I could have remembered that wrong

Gotta be a bit wary of calibrating the camera for infrared as different lenses focus in different ways - I think this only applies to Ultra Wide Angle zooms. For example a camera calibrated for infrared on a 50mm will not focus correctly when a 10-22 is used (and vice versa).

I suppose at the end of it, if you know which lens you're going to use and you're only going to use that one for infrared, send it in with the camera else just stop down and shoot away.
For info, I have a converted 400D and that was calibrated to a nifty-fifty. However I only use a 17-40 on it and I've had no issues. I also pretty much only shoot f/8-11 and in bright daylight so I wouldnt really notice to many focus issues. And also blurry backgrounds dont seem to work as well with infrared so I dont go after shallow DoF shots.
Hope this helps.

Does anyone else get a noticeable hotspot when using a tokina 11-16? I've been getting them at f/8 through all focal lengths. I can't using a larger aperture than f/8 due to improper AF.

I guess as a side question to that, does anyone have experience with a UWA that doesn't have an obvious hotspot? My 50 1.8 is awesome for IR and shows no artifact, but miss the large FOV. I'd even consider a fisheye..

Acamacho wrote in post #12425994
Does anyone else get a noticeable hotspot when using a tokina 11-16? I've been getting them at f/8 through all focal lengths. I can't using a larger aperture than f/8 due to improper AF.

I guess as a side question to that, does anyone have experience with a UWA that doesn't have an obvious hotspot? My 50 1.8 is awesome for IR and shows no artifact, but miss the large FOV. I'd even consider a fisheye..

I also have a hotspot on my Tokina 16-28. My 17-40 is my go to UWA for IR.

Acamacho wrote in post #12425994
Does anyone else get a noticeable hotspot when using a tokina 11-16? I've been getting them at f/8 through all focal lengths. I can't using a larger aperture than f/8 due to improper AF.

I guess as a side question to that, does anyone have experience with a UWA that doesn't have an obvious hotspot? My 50 1.8 is awesome for IR and shows no artifact, but miss the large FOV. I'd even consider a fisheye..

For a crop I've heard (and seen) some good things with the Canon 10-22 but apparently it can depend on the particular copy.
I thought the tokina 11-16 was a good one for IR (or was that the 12-24 - I always get them confused...)?

rusty.jg wrote in post #12426220
For a crop I've heard (and seen) some good things with the Canon 10-22 but apparently it can depend on the particular copy.
I thought the tokina 11-16 was a good one for IR (or was that the 12-24 - I always get them confused...)?

That's why I thought too, and I think I've gotten images with no hotspot but haven't done a proper test to see which focal lengths show it @ which aperture (just all at f/8). I also have a 15-85 which seems to show around f/8 as well, but haven't tested focal length other than 15mm and 85mm.

Just unfortunate, I can sort of process around it or accept it for some images. I have a friend at work that has a 10-22, I'll see if I can borrow it and give it a whirl.

rusty.jg wrote in post #12424891
Kind of depends on what you're going to shoot. If its big landscapes or "scenes" in general then you probably wont see much difference. I usually stop down to f/9, shift the focus back from the infinity stop a fraction and shoot away.
If you're going to be taking images of things fairly close, plants for example then you may notice a problem. You can always get round it by switching to manual focus and over time getting used to where the focus actually is versus where the focus appears to be in the viewfinder (I *think* the IR plane of focus lies behind the subject - i.e. further away from you than the visible light plane of focus - but I could have remembered that wrong

Gotta be a bit wary of calibrating the camera for infrared as different lenses focus in different ways - I think this only applies to Ultra Wide Angle zooms. For example a camera calibrated for infrared on a 50mm will not focus correctly when a 10-22 is used (and vice versa).

I suppose at the end of it, if you know which lens you're going to use and you're only going to use that one for infrared, send it in with the camera else just stop down and shoot away.
For info, I have a converted 400D and that was calibrated to a nifty-fifty. However I only use a 17-40 on it and I've had no issues. I also pretty much only shoot f/8-11 and in bright daylight so I wouldnt really notice to many focus issues. And also blurry backgrounds dont seem to work as well with infrared so I dont go after shallow DoF shots.
Hope this helps.

Awesome, thanks for all the info. I will be using this mostly for landscapes and hopefully will be getting a 10-22 here in the next month or two, but I will be sending in my camera this next week so I wouldn't have that to calibrate it with. I just bought a 24-105L and is currently my only lens since I sold a few of my previous ones to purchase it! I didn't really want to send it off leaving my 7D lensless for two weeks but I will if I have to. I was thinking to have my 24-105L calibrated with it so I know at least one of my lenses will be sure to focus as best as possible if I were to use it on the 30D for IR and since I would be shooting landscape with the 10-22 it wouldn't really matter because I would mostly be at F8 or higher! Does that sound pretty logical? Or should I just not worry and let them calibrate it with the 50mm?

darktiger wrote in post #12460348

Love the blue-green colour you have on these two. Good work.

As we speak I am getting my 50D converted. I went with the standard filter since cost was an issue. From the sample shots I think i am going to be happy. When I asked Life Pixel and the focusing issues with different lenses they mentioned that I could use live view the focus manually by. Because of that I went with the standard 50mm f/1.8 lens calibration. I'll use that as my main IR lens. If I ever decide to use a different lens I will use manual focus.

I just read about hot spots. At first I thought you only got those with a non-converted body. I was wrong. Do hot spots only appear in certain situations (aperture, shutter speed, angle to the sun, etc) or all the time? I would like to test my lenses before hand so that I know which ones are good.

AbPho wrote in post #12485342
I just read about hot spots. At first I thought you only got those with a non-converted body. I was wrong. Do hot spots only appear in certain situations (aperture, shutter speed, angle to the sun, etc) or all the time? I would like to test my lenses before hand so that I know which ones are good.

Based on my experiences I'll have to disagree, none of my lenses (after converting) produce hotspots.