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Thread started 23 May 2011 (Monday) 02:31
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Continuous High Speed Shooting Question

 
Robertogee
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May 23, 2011 02:31 |  #1

I don't do a lot of high-speed shooting. I always shoot in RAW. That's fine for shooting public speakers in high-speed, for instance, for me.

Question? I'm about to shoot some action shots involving horses. Given the somewhat slower write-speed with large RAW files versus JPEGs, I would appreciate hearing about the advantages and disadvantages to both formats, shooting in high-speed mode.

Ultimately, some of these shots will be printed, up to, say, 12" x 18".

Thanks for any input.


EOS 7D | EOS 40D | EF 85mm 1.8 | Canon 10-22 | Canon 50mm 1.8 | Canon 28-135mm | Tamron 17-35mm | Tamron 28-200mm LD | Tamron 70-300mm | 580 EX II | 430 EX II

  
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Lyndön
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May 23, 2011 02:40 |  #2

40D buffer size, from dpreview.com

• Large/Fine JPEG: 75 frames
• RAW: 17 frames
• RAW+JPEG: 14 frames


Write speed depends (up to a point) on what type of card you're using, but the buffer size for JPEG files is much larger than for RAW, or RAW+JPEG. So, if you're going to be shooting in bursts of more than 14-17 frames at a time (that's approx 2-3 seconds at high-speed on the 40D), or shooting bursts often, you might want to shoot JPEG only to keep from missing shots.


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CaptivatedByBeauty
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May 23, 2011 03:07 as a reply to  @ Lyndön's post |  #3

You may be forced to shoot jpg only.
If so, make sure the colour temperature and exposure are right.
I don't like doing it, but am forced to sometimes due to the need for long continuous speed.


Steve
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Robertogee
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May 23, 2011 03:59 |  #4

GREAT responses, so far. Further clarifications. I will be shooting the horses in full daylight. I'm pretty trusting of the 40D's auto white balance and auto exposure under these conditions (though I may want to dial in exposure compensation). Right? Wrong?

I use back-button focusing. Am used to it and comfortable with it. Planned to switch to AI Servo for these continuous horse action shots.

And yes, I imagine I will be shooting some fairly lengthy bursts, fairly often, during this shoot.

Really appreciate these responses.


EOS 7D | EOS 40D | EF 85mm 1.8 | Canon 10-22 | Canon 50mm 1.8 | Canon 28-135mm | Tamron 17-35mm | Tamron 28-200mm LD | Tamron 70-300mm | 580 EX II | 430 EX II

  
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apersson850
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May 23, 2011 06:18 as a reply to  @ Robertogee's post |  #5

It's pretty simple. Start with RAW at the event. If you frequently run into buffer overflow issues, and don't think you can quickly get better at taking photos at the right moment, instead of spray-painting the event, then switch to jpeg.

For the print size you are talking about, anything goes.


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Daship
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May 23, 2011 07:57 |  #6

I typically use jpeg for continuous high speed shooting.




  
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SkipD
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May 23, 2011 08:32 |  #7

Robertogee wrote in post #12461728 (external link)
And yes, I imagine I will be shooting some fairly lengthy bursts, fairly often, during this shoot.

I must ask why you feel you need "machine-gun mode" to photograph the event.

I have never needed such a feature, but have frequently made several sequential shots even with cameras that required manually advancing the film between shots and manually focusing the lens to follow the movement. Admittedly, it's easier to do manually fired sequences with my 20D than it was with my film cameras. I still typically use manual focus when doing that sort of sequence.

"Spray and pray" is definitely not on of my list of tools to use for photography.


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prozshot
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May 23, 2011 08:46 |  #8

...




  
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Robertogee
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May 23, 2011 17:40 |  #9

Not sure I'm talking about "spray and pray." More the difference between, say, 6fps and 3fps, for jumps, for instance.

The infrequent times I use continuous mode -- kids' action, say -- I've been okay with RAW at 3fps. I'm pretty good at timing crucial moments on indoor sports with flash, but this horse shoot is a one-off, so I'm trying to pre-figure my best insurance for getting the best shots.

Thanks for these responses!


EOS 7D | EOS 40D | EF 85mm 1.8 | Canon 10-22 | Canon 50mm 1.8 | Canon 28-135mm | Tamron 17-35mm | Tamron 28-200mm LD | Tamron 70-300mm | 580 EX II | 430 EX II

  
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cristphoto
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May 23, 2011 18:37 |  #10

Stick with raw if you have any concerns about the quality. As previously stated your buffer has a raw image capacity of 17 images and that should be plenty for your situation. When I shoot sporting events I shoot raw and fire in bursts of 7 or 8 shots at the most to insure I get the peak action.


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krb
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May 23, 2011 18:50 |  #11

Your camera will shoot at teh same speed regardless of whether you are shooting raw or not. The only difference is how long it will take for the buffer to fill.

SkipD wrote in post #12462339 (external link)
I must ask why you feel you need "machine-gun mode" to photograph the event.

You know, it's funny that people call it "machine-gunning" if you just hold down the shutter and keep shooting until the memory card is full. The truth is that you should shoot high speed continuous the same exact way that you should shoot a machinegun: short, controlled bursts that will give the greatest amount of hits without burning out the equipment too fast.


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snyderman
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May 23, 2011 19:53 |  #12

I hear exactly what you're saying. You want to get shots like peak action of a horse going over a jump. Focus on horse's nose and shoot a burst of 3-4 shots just BEFORE the horse begins the jump. The 40D has a bit of shutter lag, so start shooting early!

Using a burst of 3-4 shots should take the buffer only seconds to clear, making another burst available within 4-5 seconds, I would guess.

I did the same thing shooting basketball on a break away layup or a dunk. Wait until the kid is just about to leave the floor and shoot a burst of 3-4 shots. If focus was caught on the 1st or 2nd frame, a peak action shot usually resulted.

I also don't refer to it as 'pray and spray' because your looking for that peak action shot. Using the high-speed shooting mode, sometimes the focus doesn't lock, (assuming a moving target) onto the subject until the 2nd or 3rd frame. If you start shooting early enough, you're likely going to get the peak action shot in the 3rd or 4th frame.

Kinda like this:

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5175/5498632306_4f8798640e_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …erphotography/5​498632306/  (external link)
IMG_4742 (external link) by snyderman3 (external link), on Flickr

which was probably the 2nd or 3rd frame in a burst of 4.

dave

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Robertogee
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May 23, 2011 20:16 |  #13

THAT'S what I'm talking about, Snyderman! GREAT shot!


EOS 7D | EOS 40D | EF 85mm 1.8 | Canon 10-22 | Canon 50mm 1.8 | Canon 28-135mm | Tamron 17-35mm | Tamron 28-200mm LD | Tamron 70-300mm | 580 EX II | 430 EX II

  
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CaptivatedByBeauty
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May 24, 2011 06:15 |  #14

Robertogee wrote in post #12461728 (external link)
GREAT responses, so far. Further clarifications. I will be shooting the horses in full daylight. I'm pretty trusting of the 40D's auto white balance and auto exposure under these conditions (though I may want to dial in exposure compensation). Right? Wrong?

Personally I'd select daylight, so they are all the same, and right, but that's less important.
I'd use manual, and set the exposure, given you'll likely have backlight in some and not in others.
I avoid fighting the camera with exposure compensation, and have gone more and more manual over time. With my new lens :) :) I'm even focusing manually now :)

Just a thought, but I guess some horses will be quite dark, so you might want to select the highest exposure possible to retain detail, but only if shooting RAW. I'm reminded of tdods dark dog :)


Steve
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Have: Canon 5D mkII, Canon 60D gripped (DBK), Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS USM mkII, Canon TS-E 24mm f/3.5 L II, Canon 1.4x mk II Extender, 1.25/2.5x Angle Finder, Triopo GT-3229X8.C Tripod with B2 head

  
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merp
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May 24, 2011 07:57 |  #15
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apersson850 wrote in post #12461978 (external link)
It's pretty simple. Start with RAW at the event. If you frequently run into buffer overflow issues, and don't think you can quickly get better at taking photos at the right moment, instead of spray-painting the event, then switch to jpeg.

For the print size you are talking about, anything goes.



I agree + 1




  
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Continuous High Speed Shooting Question
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