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Thread started 17 Jul 2011 (Sunday) 18:32
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Airshow specific: having trouble picking a lens setup to rent

 
Leftcoast_Mike
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Jul 17, 2011 22:42 |  #16

some great examples posted here, thanks for the insight everyone!

FlyingPhotog, I'm a big fan of your work. Thanks for chiming in on this


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FlyingPhotog
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Jul 17, 2011 22:47 |  #17

De Nada...


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Leftcoast_Mike
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Jul 18, 2011 11:44 |  #18

Booked a Canon 100-400L :)

Booked it for a week so I could get some practice using the push/pull zoom. Thanks for all the insight folks!


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Jul 18, 2011 12:05 |  #19

Leftcoast_Mike wrote in post #12779135 (external link)
Booked a Canon 100-400L :)

Booked it for a week so I could get some practice using the push/pull zoom. Thanks for all the insight folks!

Practice is good. Also most copies of this lens seem to like F7.1/8.0 for good sharpness. I would shot Av mode, stabilizer on mode 2 and adjust my ISO up if need to get the shutter speed up.

In practice, perhaps start around 1/800 and work down to 1/200 and see what your technique gives you in terms of sharpness. This is a "bigger" lens and my take some getting used to in terms of smooth panning and zooming.

I really like the flexibility and IS this lens has, it makes it a great airshow lens.

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Leftcoast_Mike
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Jul 18, 2011 12:12 |  #20

jdando wrote in post #12779252 (external link)
Practice is good. Also most copies of this lens seem to like F7.1/8.0 for good sharpness. I would shot Av mode, stabilizer on mode 2 and adjust my ISO up if need to get the shutter speed up.

In practice, perhaps start around 1/800 and work down to 1/200 and see what your technique gives you in terms of sharpness. This is a "bigger" lens and my take some getting used to in terms of smooth panning and zooming.

I really like the flexibility and IS this lens has, it makes it a great airshow lens.

QUOTED IMAGE

definitely great advice. last year when I rented the 400mm 5.6L I took it to the airport for 4 days leading up to the airshow. I went through the motions with the lens and tried to get some sense of what it's like to track aircraft through a long lens while adjusting certain settings. Obviously sitting around a commercial airport won't prepare you for tracking fast movers but it helped for sure. I now have the good fortune to be a volunteer at a local aviation museum and they frequently fly some of their warbirds on nice afternoons. I'm sure that'll make for some tremendous practice as well leading up to the show.


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Jul 18, 2011 17:33 as a reply to  @ Leftcoast_Mike's post |  #21

Hey, don't laugh but I used to go to the shore and shoot seagulls flying by to practice panning as I shot. If not at the shore just finding a park with lots of flying birds works too. When my keeper rate went up, I knew I was learning! :) (that went for any lens too)

As mentioned, when shooting planes in the sky, be sure to set the IS at mode "2" ... that's for panning! Mode "1" is for everything else.


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17-40 L, 24-70 L, 70-200 f/2.8 L IS, 100-400 L IS,
TS-E 24 f/3.5 L, 28-135 IS (x2), 50 f/1.8, 85 f/1.8 550EX, 430EX
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Leftcoast_Mike
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Aug 08, 2011 00:34 |  #22

FlyingPhotog wrote in post #12776283 (external link)
Nothing really beats a prime but the 100-400 gives you that "Oops" factor that is sometimes very handy!

Jay, when you say primes...which are you referring to?

this thread has run it's course as I bought the 100-400 but I'm still curious as to which primes you were talking about lol


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FlyingPhotog
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Aug 08, 2011 01:05 |  #23

Leftcoast_Mike wrote in post #12895120 (external link)
Jay, when you say primes...which are you referring to?

this thread has run it's course as I bought the 100-400 but I'm still curious as to which primes you were talking about lol

My weapons of choice:
- 300mm f/2.8L IS (often with the 1.4X TC as around 400mm is a good lentgh)
- 500mm f/4L IS (also with the 1.4X TC from time to time but usually "nekkid")


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Leftcoast_Mike
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Aug 08, 2011 01:08 |  #24

FlyingPhotog wrote in post #12895198 (external link)
My weapons of choice:
- 300mm f/2.8L IS (often with the 1.4X TC as around 400mm is a good lentgh)
- 500mm f/4L IS (also with the 1.4X TC from time to time but usually "nekkid")

I bet that 500 is awesome, I should rent one sometime...maybe for Aviation Nation.

was wondering about that 135mm you use on your full frame. Would an 85mm be about the equivalent on a crop?


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FlyingPhotog
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Aug 08, 2011 01:12 |  #25

Leftcoast_Mike wrote in post #12895206 (external link)
I bet that 500 is awesome, I should rent one sometime...maybe for Aviation Nation.

Good show for a 500 for single ship stuff. 100-400 is still the better choice for TBirds Diamond/Delta, BUFF, BOne, etc...

was wondering about that 135mm you use on your full frame. Would an 85mm be about the equivalent on a crop?

Very similar FOV, yes and f/1.8 will yield similar shallow DOF. The 135 has its own unique bokeh shot wide open but the 85 will give nearly similar results under similar shooting conditions. I'm on APS-H by the way... MkIII + MkIV


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Leftcoast_Mike
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Aug 08, 2011 01:19 |  #26

good points all around. When I was researching the 135 I realized I'd have to back up a couple of miles using my crop body (at least that was my assumption). Seemed to me like the 85 was my best option for similar results. Right now I just toss on the 50mm

I'm 4 days away from arrival day so I've got work to do with this new lens. Was out shooting in manual for the first time today trying to find the sweet spot.


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FlyingPhotog
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Aug 08, 2011 01:23 |  #27

If you can get away with a suitable shutter speed (jet wise) try not dropping below f/6.7 on the 100-400. Obviously, for props, your apertures will run to the f/11-16 range depending on the light.

Wide open is generally ok but if you can stay off the very bottom of the aperture scale, your images will be just that little bit better (IMO)


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Aug 08, 2011 01:26 |  #28

FlyingPhotog wrote in post #12895245 (external link)
If you can get away with a suitable shutter speed (jet wise) try not dropping below f/6.7 on the 100-400. Obviously, for props, your apertures will run to the f/11-16 range depending on the light.

Wide open is generally ok but if you can stay off the very bottom of the aperture scale, your images will be just that little bit better (IMO)

I really struggled to find a sweet spot today, I was out there for 4 hours. I've been shooting in AV all this time so it's an adjustment. I just want my shots to be a little 'glossier' if you know what i mean?

https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1077493 :cry:


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Aug 08, 2011 01:30 |  #29

Leftcoast_Mike wrote in post #12895249 (external link)
I really struggled to find a sweet spot today, I was out there for 4 hours. I've been shooting in AV all this time so it's an adjustment. I just want my shots to be a little 'glossier' if you know what i mean?

https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1077493 :cry:

I would suggest Tv instead of Av and set your exposure compensation to plus 1/3 to plus 1/2...

I find it easier to choose the shutter speed I know I want and let the f/stop go where it will instead of trying to choose an aperture I hope will yield a suitable shutter speed.

The extra exposure comp stop will allow for exposing the underside properly and keep you from crushing the shadows. This will vary however depending on what your sun situation may be. You'll need to open up a little bit more if you're more up sun than down sun.

Better to miss slightly bright and dial things back down instead of missing dark and having to boost your levels (which also brings up the noise floor.)


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Leftcoast_Mike
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Aug 08, 2011 01:35 |  #30

FlyingPhotog wrote in post #12895257 (external link)
I would suggest Tv instead of Av and set your exposure compensation to plus 1/3 to plus 1/2...

I find it easier to choose the shutter speed I know I want and let the f/stop go where it will instead of trying to choose an aperture I hope will yield a suitable shutter speed.

The extra exposure comp stop will allow for exposing the underside properly and keep you from crushing the shadows. This will vary however depending on what your sun situation may be. You'll need to open up a little bit more if you're more up sun than down sun.

Better to miss slightly bright and dial things back down instead of missing dark and having to boost your levels (which also brings up the noise floor.)

Everyone always harps on using Manual and it really just seems like way too much work when you're tracking/panning aircraft. Maybe it's just me?

I'll give this a try tomorrow, I've not really used TV mode all that much but the way you've described the above it sounds like a good alternative. very helpful again sir, I thank you!


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