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Thread started 19 May 2011 (Thursday) 22:54
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want to play with IR, suggest any cameras?

 
Rotorhead
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May 19, 2011 22:54 |  #1

Would like to add another body dedicated to infa red. want to buy a used body for this, been looking at a couple of 20D's. Any thoughts from anybody ?




  
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Mark ­ II
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May 19, 2011 23:06 |  #2

Rotorhead wrote in post #12443980 (external link)
Would like to add another body dedicated to infa red. want to buy a used body for this, been looking at a couple of 20D's. Any thoughts from anybody ?

40D ... Better/bigger lcd. Live view too.


1DX7D - 40D IR converted Sony RX100,
Canon 85 L II, EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II, EF 24-105L, 16-35mm f/2.8 II L, 100L & 60mm Macro , Fisheye EF 15mm f2.8, Tokina 10-17

  
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Rotorhead
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May 19, 2011 23:48 |  #3

so what is the number in the filter factor refer to?




  
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joeseph
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May 20, 2011 04:11 |  #4

Rotorhead wrote in post #12444299 (external link)
so what is the number in the filter factor refer to?

refers to the wavelength of light that the filter passes

e.g. 720 = 729nm (bit of bandwidth at the edge of visable light and IR so you still get a bit of colour to play with)
800 & above is getting into the purely IR range so you end up with monotone images.

As for the 20D's - they're great, very cheap & good performance. Main downside is lack of liveview (which is quite useful for focussing, I'm told)


some fairly old canon camera stuff, canon lenses, Manfrotto "thingy", 1D MK II converted for IR, and now an M5
TF posting: here :-)

  
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johneo
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May 20, 2011 07:55 |  #5

I don't think it matters which camera body you have converted as I believe they all can be. It's like buying any camera ... will it do what you want at a price you can afford?

Had my old 10D converted to Deep B&W and my 5D converted to Super Color IR. They both work just like they did before conversion with slightly different results :lol:

As for having "live view" ... I imagine that would be a big help but by the same means, you can and do learn to have an idea of what you likely will get when you shoot after you've used it enough (without live view)

I think what most do is get an older (used) camera body at a reasonable cost and convert. Unless you plan on shooting a LOT of IR, I find it's just an alternative to my regular shooting. In other words, don't spend a lot of money as it may be money better spent on other camera gear.

(I love the results I get from my "old" 10D converted to B&W IR! YMMV)

IMAGE: http://riview.com/IR/0097ir2.jpg

2 - 5DMKII's, Powershot SX 150 IS
7D, 5D, IR/5D, 10D, IR/10D, Elan 7NE
17-40 L, 24-70 L, 70-200 f/2.8 L IS, 100-400 L IS,
TS-E 24 f/3.5 L, 28-135 IS (x2), 50 f/1.8, 85 f/1.8 550EX, 430EX
40mm pancake

  
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bsmotril
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May 20, 2011 08:23 |  #6

http://austin.craigsli​st.org/pho/2390239806.​html (external link)


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Galleries: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/smopho/ (external link) --- http://billsmotrilla.z​enfolio.com/ (external link)

  
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ralff
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Jul 30, 2011 08:24 as a reply to  @ bsmotril's post |  #7

From what I have been reading it appears that a camera with live view focusing is a big plus for a conversion. The other option seems to be sending the body with a lens they can set focusing for, then other lenses will not focus properly? I do remember when shooting the IR film in the 70's I had to shift the focus. Any experience with the live view after an IR conversion?


Canon 6D - Canon 7D - gripped, Canon 50D - gripped, EFS10-22mm, 17-40 f4 L, nifty-fifty, EF 28-135mm IS, 100-400 f4.5-5.6 L IS USM, Tokina AT-X 100mm f/2.8 ProD Macro, Benbo Trekker, Feisol 3371 w/ Kirk BH-3 ball head - Epson Pic-Mate, Epson 2200, Epson 3880 :D http://www.flickr.com/​photos/WNC_Ralph (external link)

  
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rick_reno
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Jul 30, 2011 08:57 |  #8

Johneo,

that's a very nice photo.




  
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johneo
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Jul 30, 2011 09:00 |  #9

ralff wrote in post #12847598 (external link)
From what I have been reading it appears that a camera with live view focusing is a big plus for a conversion. The other option seems to be sending the body with a lens they can set focusing for, then other lenses will not focus properly? I do remember when shooting the IR film in the 70's I had to shift the focus. Any experience with the live view after an IR conversion?

I didn't send a lens with either of my converted bodies and the various lenses I use ... 50mm, 24-70, 28-135 mostly ... work just fine. I also don't use AF when shooting IR and to be honest, I never look at what the focus ring is set at before shooting. I have read that some lenses don't work well with a converted IR body too.

I've been curious if live view would show the IR scene on the LCD before taking the shot? My cameras don't have live view and many times I take the shot and then get that "WOW!" effect after .... many times it's "hmmmm, I better try that again" effect though :rolleyes:


2 - 5DMKII's, Powershot SX 150 IS
7D, 5D, IR/5D, 10D, IR/10D, Elan 7NE
17-40 L, 24-70 L, 70-200 f/2.8 L IS, 100-400 L IS,
TS-E 24 f/3.5 L, 28-135 IS (x2), 50 f/1.8, 85 f/1.8 550EX, 430EX
40mm pancake

  
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RPCrowe
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Jul 30, 2011 09:02 as a reply to  @ ralff's post |  #10

Here's my take...

I converted a D60 (not a 60D) to full-time IR and, although it does a good job, Iwish that I had gone a different route...

I wish that I had converted a top-grade P&S camera to full time IR. That way, I could carry the camera in my photo vest and always have IR available.

I left the D60 home when I traveled to China and to Alaska because of the extra weight. I normally shoot with a pair of cameras and the third would have been too much.

I know that I would get a lot more use from a converted P&S than I do from my D60. Another thought would have been converting an XT which, without a battery pack is a very small, easily carried camera. Still, the P&S would be better for me...


See my images at http://rpcrowe.smugmug​.com/ (external link)

  
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johneo
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Jul 30, 2011 09:17 |  #11

rick_reno wrote in post #12847691 (external link)
Johneo,

that's a very nice photo.

Thank you! Sometimes I get lucky!


2 - 5DMKII's, Powershot SX 150 IS
7D, 5D, IR/5D, 10D, IR/10D, Elan 7NE
17-40 L, 24-70 L, 70-200 f/2.8 L IS, 100-400 L IS,
TS-E 24 f/3.5 L, 28-135 IS (x2), 50 f/1.8, 85 f/1.8 550EX, 430EX
40mm pancake

  
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george ­ m ­ w
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Jul 30, 2011 10:18 |  #12

I still have my old Minolta Dimage 7:

http://www.dpreview.co​m/reviews/minoltadimag​e7/ (external link)

....and this link:

http://www.pbase.com/z​ylen/infrared (external link)

....inspired me to try some of it. I bought a hoya R72 filter, and have done some shooting with it, but to be honest, I kind of lost interest before I got any results even close to what that gal got. But it does show what can be done with patience, time and effort. You can probably search around and find an old Dimage7 for next to nothing on evilbay. Finding a 49mm R72 filter might be a little tougher. Not sure where I even got mine, it's been so long. These kinds of shots are definitely tripod kind of stuff, because that R72 is very, very dark, so you are looking at very long exposure times.

EDIT: followup to that, if you are going to try the route on the Minolta Dimage 5 or 7, try to get the original version, not the "i" or "Hi". One of the "improvements" made to the later models was a stronger AA filter, which was an improvement for normal photos, but hurt the IR ideas. The original version had a very weak AA filter. LOL....I gave $1000 for that camera when new !


regards, george w

"It's also obvious that people determined to solve user error with more expensive equipment will graduate to expensive user error."
Dave N.

  
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johneo
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Jul 30, 2011 13:07 |  #13

I bought a Hoya R72 filter when I first thought about trying IR. It was a 52mm for my old Sony Mavica. Couldn't stand the long shutter speeds and the fact that things moved while the shutter was opened (leaves and flowers in any type of breeze) so checking into a conversion I found out you do not need the long shutter speeds. HUGE difference!!!

A kid in my class became interested after seeing some of my IR shots. He had just bought his first digital SLR and did not want to convert it so I gave hime the filter. He agrees, it's a pain but until he can afford an older dSLR to convert, he'll keep trying with the filter.


2 - 5DMKII's, Powershot SX 150 IS
7D, 5D, IR/5D, 10D, IR/10D, Elan 7NE
17-40 L, 24-70 L, 70-200 f/2.8 L IS, 100-400 L IS,
TS-E 24 f/3.5 L, 28-135 IS (x2), 50 f/1.8, 85 f/1.8 550EX, 430EX
40mm pancake

  
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george ­ m ­ w
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Jul 30, 2011 13:12 |  #14

I bought a Hoya R72 filter when I first thought about trying IR. It was a 52mm for my old Sony Mavica. Couldn't stand the long shutter speeds and the fact that things moved while the shutter was opened (leaves and flowers in any type of breeze) so checking into a conversion I found out you do not need the long shutter speeds. HUGE difference!!!

Good point John. The biggest advantage of doing this way may be that it's a fairly cheap way to try it out and see if it really interests you. You're right though....tripod, long shutter speeds can be a pain.


regards, george w

"It's also obvious that people determined to solve user error with more expensive equipment will graduate to expensive user error."
Dave N.

  
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Old ­ Coot
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Jul 30, 2011 13:21 as a reply to  @ george m w's post |  #15

If you are wanted to just play around, look at your video camera. My old Sony Handicam took pretty good IR video with the night vision turned on and a cheap eBay filter. It also will take still shots and save them to a memory stick with abut a 1 MP resolution-Not really "great" but decent for messing around. Being able to see through certain fabrics turned out to be a real surprise.


5d | 50d | 1d mii | Rebel G 35mm | Polaroid 100, 210, 360 | Bigma | Tokina 80-200 | Promaster 19-35 | 580ex | Olde Tyme Novatron strobes

  
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