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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 09 Sep 2011 (Friday) 05:44
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Did I do it right?

 
ShootaBike
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Sep 09, 2011 05:44 |  #1

Yesterday I shot my usual victim (elder daughter) with off camera flash for the first time.

My question has to do with manual metering...

I set up my flash on a lightstand with a white umbrella and triggered with a wireless remote that will not support ETTL.

So...

I set the Camera to Manual -> set Shutter to 1/200 (I did not choose 1/250 to have some room up or down to adjust if needed -> set flash to Manual operation - decreased output power of the flash unit to 1/4 -> Picked up a 5.6 aperture and synchronised the flash too -> Did not meter a thing -> shot a picture and adjusted flash power upwards -> judging by the camera display & histogram I thought it was ok there and shot some more -> it was late, kid had to go to bed, and so did I.

Is my work-flow ok or am I missing something in the process?

Thanx for making me better!


Canon EOS 7D | Canon 580EX II | Metz Mecablitz 58 AF1 | Canon EF-S 15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM | Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro | Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM |Yongnuo YN-622C | Lots to learn...
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wambam
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Sep 09, 2011 06:08 |  #2

Nothing wrong with chimping.
if it looks good to you ,you got it.




  
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ShootaBike
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Sep 09, 2011 06:17 |  #3

Thanx for bothering!

I just feel uncomfortable with the "not meter a thing" part it just feels weird...


Canon EOS 7D | Canon 580EX II | Metz Mecablitz 58 AF1 | Canon EF-S 15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM | Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro | Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM |Yongnuo YN-622C | Lots to learn...
Lowepro S&F Modular Carrying System | Naneu Pro Military Ops - Bravo Backpack
C μ on Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/shootabike/ (external link)

  
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Curtis ­ N
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Sep 09, 2011 06:27 |  #4

Nothing wrong with doing it that way, it just takes a bit of trial and error. A new white t-shirt to throw over your model is useful for chimping purposes. Zoom into it to give you a big histogram spike, then adjust until that spike is where you want it.

Your next purchase should be a flash meter.


"If you're not having fun, your pictures will reflect that." - Joe McNally
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gonzogolf
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Sep 09, 2011 06:28 |  #5

ShootaBike wrote in post #13074592 (external link)
Thanx for bothering!

I just feel uncomfortable with the "not meter a thing" part it just feels weird...

but unless you buy a flash meter you cant meter a thing that only exists for less than 1/100 of a second. So yes your workflow is fine. Although you might want to play with the shutterspeed a bit to understand its contribution in controlling the ambient light.




  
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ShootaBike
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Sep 09, 2011 06:56 |  #6

Nice tips, thank you!

What am I supposed to do with the spike? Sould I measure it so that it will not get blown?

Could you please explain that a bit?


Canon EOS 7D | Canon 580EX II | Metz Mecablitz 58 AF1 | Canon EF-S 15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM | Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro | Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM |Yongnuo YN-622C | Lots to learn...
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mtimber
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Sep 09, 2011 07:01 |  #7

Best way I have found is correctly expose in manual using the camera.

Then take that exposure 1 stop under on the camera.

Then set flash to around 1/8th power and you are usually good to go.

The flash makes up for the underexposure on the camera and they balance out nicely.


"Owning lots of expensive gear is very important. I helps those of us without talent appear as if we really know what we're doing" (Belmondo)

  
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ShootaBike
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Sep 09, 2011 07:08 |  #8

I guess your way has a strategy into it... would it work in low light interiors when the shutter speeds would be quite long without the flash?


Canon EOS 7D | Canon 580EX II | Metz Mecablitz 58 AF1 | Canon EF-S 15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM | Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro | Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM |Yongnuo YN-622C | Lots to learn...
Lowepro S&F Modular Carrying System | Naneu Pro Military Ops - Bravo Backpack
C μ on Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/shootabike/ (external link)

  
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mtimber
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Sep 09, 2011 07:15 |  #9

Yes, I primarily use this when I am bouncing flash indoors.

Here is a sample using this technique:

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IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/gif' | Redirected to error image by FLICKR

3maab-48.jpg (external link) by mtimber1971 (external link), on Flickr

If you look at the picture, you will see the highlights are on the forehead and top of the nose, this was because the flash was bouncing off of the ceiling.

Google "black foamie thing" for the technique for bounced flagged on camera flash.

This will also work for off camera flash.

Try it a couple of times and you will see how easy it is.

"Can't list equipment, wife checks here to see what I have bought lately" (calicokat)

  
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Curtis ­ N
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Sep 09, 2011 09:23 |  #10

ShootaBike wrote in post #13074686 (external link)
What am I supposed to do with the spike? Sould I measure it so that it will not get blown?

If you fill the frame with bright white, like a new t-shirt, the histogram spike should be very near the right side but not against it. Also the "blinkies" on your LCD image will indicate overexposure.


"If you're not having fun, your pictures will reflect that." - Joe McNally
Chicago area POTN events (external link)
Flash Photography 101 | The EOS Flash Bible  (external link)| Techniques for Better On-Camera Flash (external link) | How to Use Flash Outdoors| Excel-based DOF Calculator (external link)

  
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mtimber
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Sep 09, 2011 09:58 |  #11

If you meter off of the white, you should be able to expose at about 2 stops over on your exposure meter built into the camera.

Using this principle to get a correct exposure:

White is 2 stops over.
Grey is 0.
Black is 1 2/3rds under.


This is what I use on my 5d2.

I use spot metering for this as well (very important).


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mtimber
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Sep 09, 2011 10:00 |  #12

So if I expose off of the black, I use the black metering.

If I expose off of white, I use the white metering method.

Then I vary it inbetween.

Skin is about 1 stop over (white skin).


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Curtis ­ N
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Sep 09, 2011 13:31 |  #13

mtimber wrote in post #13075381 (external link)
If you meter off of the white, you should be able to expose at about 2 stops over on your exposure meter built into the camera.

Camera meter is of no use with manual flash. That's kinda the whole reason (ok, most of the reason) people buy flash meters.


"If you're not having fun, your pictures will reflect that." - Joe McNally
Chicago area POTN events (external link)
Flash Photography 101 | The EOS Flash Bible  (external link)| Techniques for Better On-Camera Flash (external link) | How to Use Flash Outdoors| Excel-based DOF Calculator (external link)

  
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ukcyberboy
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Sep 10, 2011 09:17 |  #14

mtimber wrote in post #13074703 (external link)
Best way I have found is correctly expose in manual using the camera.

Then take that exposure 1 stop under on the camera.

Then set flash to around 1/8th power and you are usually good to go.

The flash makes up for the underexposure on the camera and they balance out nicely.

So would you recommend ETTL?


Body | Canon 6D |
Lens | Yongnuo 50mm 1.8 |
Lens | Canon 28-70 2.8 L |
Lens | Canon 70-200is F4 L |
Lighting | Yongnuo YN600RX |
Accessories | Various Bits |​

  
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