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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre General Photography Talk 
Thread started 19 Oct 2011 (Wednesday) 18:23
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How to do Light Graffiti?

 
Kaiten350
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Oct 19, 2011 18:23 |  #1
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Can somebody please tell me how to achieve something like this in Photography? I heard you have to use a slow shutter speed, and a nice LED light in the dark. Can somebody confirm?

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Oct 19, 2011 18:25 |  #2

It sounds like you described the technique accurately.


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Kaiten350
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Oct 19, 2011 18:29 |  #3
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Naturalist wrote in post #13275738 (external link)
It sounds like you described the technique accurately.

I see.. so its a pretty basic technique huh? Have you or anybody here had any results with achieving this light effect?




  
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va_rider
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Oct 19, 2011 18:30 |  #4

yep. it's really that easy.

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Stump
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Oct 19, 2011 18:32 |  #5

Just don't try it with a laser! :lol:


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Oct 19, 2011 18:38 |  #6

Stump wrote in post #13275766 (external link)
Just don't try it with a laser! :lol:


Why not?? These were done with a laser, and doing light-painting or graffiti is just as easy. You simply shine the laser on the ground or on a wall, and not directly into the sensor...


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Kaiten350
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Oct 19, 2011 18:53 |  #7
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va_rider wrote in post #13275761 (external link)
yep. it's really that easy.

QUOTED IMAGE

Thats sick. Whats the best object to use for the light? Also how come your room was brightly exposed? I thought the light graffiti shows up only in the dark o_O




  
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Oct 19, 2011 18:58 |  #8

If you use a long exposure any peripheral light is gonna make your scene look brighter than it actually is. And you can use pretty much any light source, little LED keychain flashlights work good


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Oct 19, 2011 19:07 |  #9

Kaiten350 wrote in post #13275848 (external link)
Thats sick. Whats the best object to use for the light? Also how come your room was brightly exposed? I thought the light graffiti shows up only in the dark o_O

this was in the middle of the day when I was snowed in.... so... it wasn't very dark at all... just choked down the aperture to f/22 or so and got 30 seconds out of it...

but.. as said, you really want to do it in a darker area... then, you don't have all sorts of distracting nonsense in the shot...

The light I was using for that one was a $1.99 single LED energizer flashlight...


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Kaiten350
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Oct 19, 2011 19:12 |  #10
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va_rider wrote in post #13275918 (external link)
this was in the middle of the day when I was snowed in.... so... it wasn't very dark at all... just choked down the aperture to f/22 or so and got 30 seconds out of it...

but.. as said, you really want to do it in a darker area... then, you don't have all sorts of distracting nonsense in the shot...

The light I was using for that one was a $1.99 single LED energizer flashlight...

Wow thats super awesome. Does aperture matter at all if you're shooting in a dark room? Or should I just worry about the shutter speed values?




  
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va_rider
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Oct 19, 2011 19:21 |  #11

aperture always matters in the whole ISO / Aperture / Shutter Speed equation ....


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Kaiten350
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Oct 19, 2011 19:27 |  #12
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va_rider wrote in post #13275975 (external link)
aperture always matters in the whole ISO / Aperture / Shutter Speed equation ....

Yeah but aperture is mainly for things like depth of field but that doesnt really apply here. Whenever I decrease/increase the aperture value, the picture becomes either more or less exposed. So if I'm trying to take light graffiti in the dark then would it matter what aperture value I have? Since the shutter speed is doing all the work here..




  
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va_rider
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Oct 19, 2011 19:32 |  #13

In order to get the correct exposure time, yes. Aperture matters. ISO matters as well.


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Kaiten350
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Oct 19, 2011 19:40 |  #14
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va_rider wrote in post #13276033 (external link)
In order to get the correct exposure time, yes. Aperture matters. ISO matters as well.

Um well I generally leave the ISO at 100 to eliminate any grainyness in the images..




  
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Oct 19, 2011 23:23 |  #15

In this case a tight aperture and low ISO can help to get the slow shutter speed. You are thinging less about things like Depth Of Field, and more about enabling the long exposure.

For any modern cameras, you don't need the "stick to ISO 100" thinking that is a holdover from the film days. Digital ISO is capable of getting great results at higher ISOs.

So for "normal" shooting, feel free to use an ISO that will enable you to get a good exposure. Don't think you can underexpose an ISO 100 shot, boost it in post-processing, and get better results than a good exposure using ISO 200/400/etc -- it won't happen.


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How to do Light Graffiti?
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