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Thread started 20 Oct 2011 (Thursday) 04:30
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So, so pictures from my 5D classic

 
pspentax
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Oct 20, 2011 04:30 |  #1

Hi all,

I´m starting playing with my new/old 5D and i can´t get that pop pictures i´m see from other people here.
I´m finding doing to much postprodution to get that pop lock in my pictures as i get from my Pentax, Nikon and also Canon 7D.
There is some nice triks like underexposing a litlle, software triks, or your worflow best software?
I´m finding this in studio, landscape, casual fotos, etc...

Regards,
Pedro


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Bendel
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Oct 20, 2011 04:57 |  #2

Examples, examples, examples


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wfarrell4
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Oct 20, 2011 07:55 |  #3
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Post processing at all? Why would you ever underexpose?


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jarski
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Oct 20, 2011 07:59 |  #4

yes comparison sampels of your good and bad shots would be nice.




  
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huntersdad
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Oct 20, 2011 08:39 |  #5

I didn't get pop in camera from my 5d. Keep in mind, it is much older technology than what you are comparing it to. That said, a couple minutes in LR changes all that. They just have to be proded.

I also wonder why you would ever intentionally underexpose with the camera?


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Dan ­ Marchant
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Oct 20, 2011 09:50 |  #6

wfarrell4 wrote in post #13278409 (external link)
Why would you ever underexpose?

+1 to this. Best way I know to kill any possible pop. If anything the rule these days seems to be to expose to the right, in order to get as much image data as possible and then dial back in PP.


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h4ppydaze
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Oct 20, 2011 10:09 |  #7

Dan Marchant wrote in post #13278949 (external link)
+1 to this. Best way I know to kill any possible pop. If anything the rule these days seems to be to expose to the right, in order to get as much image data as possible and then dial back in PP.

with digital it's much easier to lose data to blown out pixels than to underexposed pixels. Basically fill light actually brings back detail in the darks where recovery just grays out the blown out areas. Blown out = completely lost, but if something is a little dark you can always bring it up.




  
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wfarrell4
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Oct 20, 2011 10:11 |  #8
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h4ppydaze wrote in post #13279034 (external link)
with digital it's much easier to lose data to blown out pixels than to underexposed pixels. Basically fill light actually brings back detail in the darks where recovery just grays out the blown out areas. Blown out = completely lost, but if something is a little dark you can always bring it up.

False. You can recover at least 1 stop of blown highlight's color and detail with appropriate RAW processing techniques. I've recovered more than that frequently.


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pspentax
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Oct 20, 2011 12:35 |  #9

wfarrell4 wrote in post #13278409 (external link)
Post processing at all? Why would you ever underexpose?

huntersdad wrote in post #13278602 (external link)
I didn't get pop in camera from my 5d. Keep in mind, it is much older technology than what you are comparing it to. That said, a couple minutes in LR changes all that. They just have to be proded.

I also wonder why you would ever intentionally underexpose with the camera?

Hi all,

Thanks for your responces and later i will post some samples.

I don´t underexpose/overexpose my photos in the 5D, i was asking if any use that trick in the 5D as people do in other cameras.
I shot only RAW, so i´m not talking about good jpeg right out of the 5D.
Wath i find is that i need to do to much post processing in the 5D compared with other cameras i have to get that wow filling.

Regards,
Pedro


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ni$mo350
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Oct 20, 2011 12:51 |  #10

How much is much? A simple curves layer adjustment to increase the contrast can make pretty much anything "pop" and takes maybe 10 seconds.


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huntersdad
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Oct 20, 2011 13:05 |  #11

pspentax wrote in post #13279795 (external link)
Wath i find is that i need to do to much post processing in the 5D compared with other cameras i have to get that wow filling.

You're not doing something right. 10-15 seconds - curves adj, a little saturation, little vibrance, little sharpness. All done, move on.

One thing I did, and still do, is set my WB to kelvin 5600. That helps me with a strong starting point for any processing. Then follow my steps above and you should be good.


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Oct 20, 2011 13:08 |  #12

This thread is useless for OP as long as OP has no pictures to post here.
I stopped to use this overexposure method on 5Dc. It is blowing to much details in light parts of the picture. I have to underexpose for landscapes and cityscapes often to be able to get as much as possible. All I have to do in LR is to increase Darks and Shadows just a little bit.
I might be wrong, but I remember how several 5Dc owners mentioned the same here - it looks like 5Dc is overexposing in some situations.


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bohdank
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Oct 20, 2011 13:10 |  #13

To the OP. You're not going to tell me that the images on your 500pix site didn't undergo more than a little PP.


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Oct 20, 2011 13:10 |  #14

h4ppydaze wrote in post #13279034 (external link)
with digital it's much easier to lose data to blown out pixels than to underexposed pixels. Basically fill light actually brings back detail in the darks where recovery just grays out the blown out areas. Blown out = completely lost, but if something is a little dark you can always bring it up.

Exposing to the right doesn't mean blowing the highlights, it means exposing to move the histogram as far to the right as possible while retaining detail in significant highlights (e.g., nobody normally cares about specular highlights no matter what the shooting style). It's not difficult to do as long as you're careful to check the brightest area in the scene to make sure you're not over-exposing.


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Oct 21, 2011 00:26 |  #15

pspentax wrote in post #13279795 (external link)
I don´t underexpose/overexpose my photos in the 5D, i was asking if any use that trick in the 5D as people do in other cameras.

A "trick" that many people who shoot Raw use is called "Expose To The Right", or ETTR. It tends to be misunderstood -- in a nutshell you "nudge" your exposure as "bright" as you can get it without "blowing" any meaningful highlights so that your in-camera histogram comes up to the Right but doesn't jam against it, indicating blown highlights. But there some stuff that goes along with this, such as setting your Picture Style to Neutral or Faithful with your Contrast and Saturations settings brought back to -4...

But, enough about that, simply because ETTR isn't really about "POP" but more about getting the "cleanest" image regarding digital noise. Now yes, the lack of noise can certainly affect the "look" of the image, but a nice thing about the 5D is that it does deliver clean images.

But "POP" is not about the Raw image, and this is what throws people off. If you consider a jpeg that a camera produces -- it has things applied in the camera to produce the "jpeg look", in other words some "pop". Specifically, cameras apply varying amounts of Contrast, Saturation and Sharpening, and then whatever other things that can apply, including White Balance and color tones that you set in the camera. The Picture Style is the main "tool" for you to use to set this stuff up.

But a Raw file has none of this applied. So...

I shot only RAW, so i´m not talking about good jpeg right out of the 5D.
Wath i find is that i need to do to much post processing in the 5D compared with other cameras i have to get that wow filling.

Regards,
Pedro

What Raw processor app are you using? you should know that most Raw processors tend to give a pretty subdued look to Raw previews, and it is up to the user to determine what "POP" settings to apply.

But, the Canon Raw processing software Digital Photo Professional (DPP) acutally applies your in-camera Picture Style and other settings to your initial Raw preview and even better, gives you the full freedom in the app itself to switch Picture Styles and White Balances around and to tweak these things to your heart's content, without doing anything to mess up the original Raw file. So, for example, to see a type of "Pop", you can switch from the Standard Picture Style to the Landscape Picture Style, and you will see changes to the Contrast, Saturation and Sharpening, and you can decide whether it gives you more of the Pop you want. Or, you could go to the Portrait Picture Style if you are taking close shots of people and see what it does.

And then, once you get a feel of what these Picture Styles do, you can tweak away to enhance the look of the photo, first in the Raw tab, and then you can check out the other tools and what they are capable of.

Now maybe you are using DPP, if so, say so, or tell us what Raw processing software you are using. I advise DPP for anyone struggling with Raw processing, especially those who are just getting started out, but definitely in your case because you are struggling with the Raw files of a camera that has earned a reputation over the last 5 years for producing great quality images.

And, if you haven't yet, check in to our 5D Classic Admirers' thread:

https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=996038

Finally, I'd encourage you to check our RAW Conversion Thread, where hundreds of folks have posted some pretty amazing things showing what can be done with Raw files and Raw processing software!

Hope this helps a bit Pedro!


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