Show us your setup and the final result!

Gaarryy wrote in post #13274562
Wow.. very nice,, how many exposures was it, or was it just one long one { I think you said 20 sec}.
it also looks like you change the light ring shadow on the ground to be more centered. but I might be looking at it at an angle.. Either way, quite impressive

Thanks Gaarryy. Glad you like it.

This was 3 shots. I think the exposures were something like 5, 10, and 20 sec ISO 100. If I recall correctly I believe I did move my tripod to the left a little after I took the setup shot.

Hinson wrote in post #13306806
Chris; awesome shot.

I agree -- beautiful water drop macro!

my set up, (right camera)

IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING! HTTP response: 400 | MIME changed to 'text/html'

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/nijelcruz/62784​90401/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/nijelcruz/62784​90253/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/nijelcruz/62749​19500/

chrisa wrote in post #13306772

Nice.

Nijel, wow! Were those little bugs on that one big leaf?

airbutchie wrote in post #13303650
Pretty awesome, Scott!!! BTW, what size are the PLM's?! Thanks in advance...

I measured them, 56".

Scott

yeow_Z wrote in post #13308072
my set up, (right camera)

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How is the flash held in place?

Hinson wrote in post #13306818
jsigone; can you explain the 'why' for the ice cooler?

Just another way to try and keep the sensor cooler. Some astrophotog's will go as far as taking apart the camera and mount heatsyncs to the backside of the sensor to help keep them cooler during long exposures.

Long Exposures = Hot Sensor
Hot sensor = Lots of Noise
Cooler sensor = Less Noise

nrowensby wrote in post #13308826
Just another way to try and keep the sensor cooler. Some astrophotog's will go as far as taking apart the camera and mount heatsyncs to the backside of the sensor to help keep them cooler during long exposures.

Long Exposures = Hot Sensor
Hot sensor = Lots of Noise
Cooler sensor = Less Noise

Ahhh, see; I just proved you're never too old to learn...hehehe

Hinson wrote in post #13306818
jsigone; can you explain the 'why' for the ice cooler?

with the shutter open for over 3mins the temp of the sensor causes so much noise at iso1600. I shoot at 1600 because I have to go through either a light pollution filter or the Ha filter and need everything I can get from the sensor. Internal temps would be in the upper 90*F if I did my 10 min exposure. By keeping the camera cool from the ice packs, not to be mistaken for direct cooling like a TEC cooler. I can drop those sensor temps to around 55-60*F and keeping the noise minimal (on summer nights). Without the cooler the temps from the first picture taken to the last one 3-4 hours later can be +20*F difference in sensor temps, the cooler almost eliminates the progressive heat of the chip and temps might rise only 2-3*F over the course of the night.

Also with astro photos, because there is always so much read noise and the detail is actually in the noise, its required to take "darks". Same exposure length but with the lens cap on. The software we use takes those darks and cancels out the noise from the picture files then stacks everything. Since noise is temp sensitive, that delta in temps from start to finish can ruin the image and all its efforts when stretching the histogram in photoshop.

Here's the lagoon pretty much straight from the camera with a small tug up on the histo with a 5 min exposure

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/67003117@N00/5​764386184/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/67003117@N00/5​947263954/

^^beautiful.

mtimber wrote in post #13309628
^^beautiful.

Yes it is. And it also shows just how insignificant we humans really are in the grand scheme of things.

jsigone wrote in post #13309620
with the shutter open for over 3mins the temp of the sensor causes so much noise at iso1600. I shoot at 1600 because I have to go through either a light pollution filter or the Ha filter and need everything I can get from the sensor. Internal temps would be in the upper 90*F if I did my 10 min exposure. By keeping the camera cool from the ice packs, not to be mistaken for direct cooling like a TEC cooler. I can drop those sensor temps to around 55-60*F and keeping the noise minimal (on summer nights). Without the cooler the temps from the first picture taken to the last one 3-4 hours later can be +20*F difference in sensor temps, the cooler almost eliminates the progressive heat of the chip and temps might rise only 2-3*F over the course of the night.

Also with astro photos, because there is always so much read noise and the detail is actually in the noise, its required to take "darks". Same exposure length but with the lens cap on. The software we use takes those darks and cancels out the noise from the picture files then stacks everything. Since noise is temp sensitive, that delta in temps from start to finish can ruin the image and all its efforts when stretching the histogram in photoshop.

Amazing Images Sir, I would love to try something like that one day, what kind of adapter would I need? and how much does a scope like that go for?

Hinson wrote in post #13309737
Yes it is. And it also shows just how insignificant we humans really are in the grand scheme of things.

Or show us how significant we really are...

mtimber wrote in post #13309983
Or show us how significant we really are...

Oh so many Douglas Adams quotes could follow this sentence .