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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 26 Jul 2011 (Tuesday) 12:19
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Upgrading questions.....

 
gregnash
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Location: Carson City, NV
     
Nov 01, 2011 15:50 |  #16

tonylong wrote in post #13338679 (external link)
Hmm, that's not what I would call "low light" in the sense that it would be too low to focus, so maybe something else was going on there. Yeah, lenses do matter -- you might want to do some testing between your Canon lenses and the Tamron and Tokina in some dimmer light and see if you see a difference.

Suggestion on setup for testing?


Gear: EOS-M w/ 18-55mm & 22mm f/2 (EF-M to EF adapter), DEAD-Canon EOS 20D w/ Phottix Grip, Canon 50mm f/1.8 mkII, Tamron SP AF 24-135mm MACRO f/3.5-5.6, Tokina 19-35mm f/3.5-5.6 SOLD, Canon 55-250mm MK I IS,
Canon SD1100 IS, Canon SX230HS

  
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tonylong
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Nov 01, 2011 16:06 |  #17

Well, have you checked out the Customer Loyalty Program?


Tony
Two Canon cameras (5DC, 30D), three Canon lenses (24-105, 100-400, 100mm macro)
Tony Long Photos on PBase (external link)
Wildlife project pics here (external link), Biking Photog shoots here (external link), "Suburbia" project here (external link)! Mount St. Helens, Mount Hood pics here (external link)

  
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tonylong
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Nov 01, 2011 16:35 |  #18

gregnash wrote in post #13338684 (external link)
Suggestion on setup for testing?

Well, any low-light setting, indoors or out, but with subject that do have contrasty details. In other words, take the guys with suits in the shadows in your Flickr shots -- aim your center point at the white shirt/black jacket meeting place and you certainly should be able to get AF. However, aiming at a low contrast area, like just a black suit or such and you will likely struggle.

So, you coud say be indoors in an evening where you had just enough light to spread some around, with a good contrasty subject in the room, just not getting direct light. Then take shots with the various lenses. See if maybe the Canon lenses are more responsive, and more accurate. Nothing fancy, but a useful exercise.


Tony
Two Canon cameras (5DC, 30D), three Canon lenses (24-105, 100-400, 100mm macro)
Tony Long Photos on PBase (external link)
Wildlife project pics here (external link), Biking Photog shoots here (external link), "Suburbia" project here (external link)! Mount St. Helens, Mount Hood pics here (external link)

  
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gregnash
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Nov 01, 2011 16:57 |  #19

Actually I didnt know they did a loyalty program!!! That is awesome! I get what you are saying about the low light test, I will try and put something together tonight and post the results. Since during the wedding I was switching between the Nifty and the Tok and had issues with both that would lead me to believe it is the body but I will try to see what I can come up with this evening.


Gear: EOS-M w/ 18-55mm & 22mm f/2 (EF-M to EF adapter), DEAD-Canon EOS 20D w/ Phottix Grip, Canon 50mm f/1.8 mkII, Tamron SP AF 24-135mm MACRO f/3.5-5.6, Tokina 19-35mm f/3.5-5.6 SOLD, Canon 55-250mm MK I IS,
Canon SD1100 IS, Canon SX230HS

  
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LudwigVB
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Nov 01, 2011 17:20 |  #20

Save yourself some expense in the short term and upgrade to a 40D. 20D -> 40D is a huge upgrade and you stand to benefit in so many ways. The 50D is not worth the extra cost ove the 40D IMHO. I wouldn't listen too much to people telling you you should hang on to the 20D -- I know how you feel, it's frustrating.




  
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gregnash
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Nov 01, 2011 17:30 |  #21

Yeah at minimum I will be updating to a 40D, all depends on what Canon has available now that I now about the loyalty program. Unfortunately, the budget doesnt allow for me to replace now so it will have to wait. Just doing my normal research before pulling the trigger.


Gear: EOS-M w/ 18-55mm & 22mm f/2 (EF-M to EF adapter), DEAD-Canon EOS 20D w/ Phottix Grip, Canon 50mm f/1.8 mkII, Tamron SP AF 24-135mm MACRO f/3.5-5.6, Tokina 19-35mm f/3.5-5.6 SOLD, Canon 55-250mm MK I IS,
Canon SD1100 IS, Canon SX230HS

  
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MilesW
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Nov 01, 2011 18:19 |  #22

The 250 Dollar fix does not seem like that right option for a 20D body. I still have mine but if it goes down I would never put 250 into a fix.


20D Canon EFS 17-85IS, 70-2001:4 L IS, Macro 100 F2.8, Canon 50 1.4Canon ext EF 1.4X II

  
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gregnash
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Nov 01, 2011 20:20 |  #23

Ok did a quick test shoot and here is the link to what I came up with...
http://www.flickr.com …o/sets/72157627​907581891/ (external link)

First image: 50mm F/4

IMAGE: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6217/6304053783_94ceb2ba42.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/gfisicaro/63040​53783/  (external link)
Untitled (external link) by renofizz (external link), on Flickr

Second image: Tokina 19-35, 19mm f/4
IMAGE: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6224/6304580146_95ed0956fa.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/gfisicaro/63045​80146/  (external link)
Untitled (external link) by renofizz (external link), on Flickr

Third image: Tokina 19-35, 28mm f/4
IMAGE: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6045/6304580446_f330c7db8f.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/gfisicaro/63045​80446/  (external link)
Untitled (external link) by renofizz (external link), on Flickr

Fourth image: Tokina 19-35, 35mm f/4
IMAGE: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6039/6304580694_249ee0bb89.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/gfisicaro/63045​80694/  (external link)
Untitled (external link) by renofizz (external link), on Flickr

Fifth image: Tamron 24-135, 24mm f/4
IMAGE: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6214/6304580944_986eb21ba1.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/gfisicaro/63045​80944/  (external link)
Untitled (external link) by renofizz (external link), on Flickr

Sixth image: Tamron 24-135, 50mm f/5.6
IMAGE: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6233/6304581214_fb1d69b7b3.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/gfisicaro/63045​81214/  (external link)
Untitled (external link) by renofizz (external link), on Flickr

Seventh image: Tamron 24-135, 135mm f/5.6
IMAGE: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6052/6304055495_21a5351aa7.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/gfisicaro/63040​55495/  (external link)
Untitled (external link) by renofizz (external link), on Flickr

and here is the link for the last 44 images from the party....
http://www.flickr.com …o/sets/72157628​032446010/ (external link)

Gear: EOS-M w/ 18-55mm & 22mm f/2 (EF-M to EF adapter), DEAD-Canon EOS 20D w/ Phottix Grip, Canon 50mm f/1.8 mkII, Tamron SP AF 24-135mm MACRO f/3.5-5.6, Tokina 19-35mm f/3.5-5.6 SOLD, Canon 55-250mm MK I IS,
Canon SD1100 IS, Canon SX230HS

  
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tonylong
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Nov 02, 2011 00:15 |  #24

So, do you see differences? The last one looks like the corner of the keyboard got focus -- did it come out OK? Wth long focal lengths, closeup shots will tend to have a bit in focus and a lot out of focus, so the key is to find the bit the camera focused on and judge from that.

With the other ones it's hard to tell because they were shot with wider focal lengths...what's your assessment?


Tony
Two Canon cameras (5DC, 30D), three Canon lenses (24-105, 100-400, 100mm macro)
Tony Long Photos on PBase (external link)
Wildlife project pics here (external link), Biking Photog shoots here (external link), "Suburbia" project here (external link)! Mount St. Helens, Mount Hood pics here (external link)

  
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drumnut01
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Nov 02, 2011 00:26 |  #25

That's subject movement causing the blur. Your shutter speeds are too slow to be shooting people. The backgrounds seems to be in better focus because it isn't moving and therefore isn't blurry.


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gregnash
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Location: Carson City, NV
     
Nov 02, 2011 09:37 |  #26

tonylong wrote in post #13340752 (external link)
So, do you see differences? The last one looks like the corner of the keyboard got focus -- did it come out OK? Wth long focal lengths, closeup shots will tend to have a bit in focus and a lot out of focus, so the key is to find the bit the camera focused on and judge from that.

With the other ones it's hard to tell because they were shot with wider focal lengths...what's your assessment?

Think there is a bit of a focus issue as I was focusing on the corner of the keyboard (highest contrast between white key and dark desk) and they all seem a bit soft and like the body is possibly front focusing a bit. AF did have a hard time finding the spot, granted this was with natural light from a slightly shuttered window at like 5:30pm.

drumnut01 wrote in post #13340783 (external link)
That's subject movement causing the blur. Your shutter speeds are too slow to be shooting people. The backgrounds seems to be in better focus because it isn't moving and therefore isn't blurry.

Ok and that is what I thought, the body cannot do high enough ISO or go "wide" enough to bring in fast shutter speeds, hence why I was wondering if the flash would help out more than a straight replacement of the body or lenses.

So with that said it looks like the next investment will be a 580EX flash. Thanks for the help guys, really appreciate it. While I do not plan to do this professionally at any level or what not I do love taking photos, especially for family and friends, and would love to take this along with me on some of my mountain biking trips.


Gear: EOS-M w/ 18-55mm & 22mm f/2 (EF-M to EF adapter), DEAD-Canon EOS 20D w/ Phottix Grip, Canon 50mm f/1.8 mkII, Tamron SP AF 24-135mm MACRO f/3.5-5.6, Tokina 19-35mm f/3.5-5.6 SOLD, Canon 55-250mm MK I IS,
Canon SD1100 IS, Canon SX230HS

  
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Upgrading questions.....
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