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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon Accessories 
Thread started 12 Oct 2011 (Wednesday) 10:31
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Compact Flash Diffusers for built in flash

 
h1r0ll3r
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Oct 12, 2011 10:31 |  #1

Does anyone have any experience with the Puffer from Gary Fong?

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I have a 430 EX II however I was looking for something a little more compact and less bulky. I saw the vid on their site demonstrating this however I'm wondering if the effects are good/comparable?

Basically I'm looking for the ability to use my built in flash without getting the "deer caught in the headlights" look. The 430 EX II is nice and all but a tad on the bulky/hefty side so I was looking for something a little more lightweight and would also allow me to use the built in flash in the event I don't feel like whipping out the 430.

Any opinions or other suggestions?

Canon T3i [Gripped]
17-55
| 55-250 MKII | Rokinon 8mm Fisheye HD | 430 EX II

  
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SkipD
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Oct 12, 2011 10:45 |  #2

It's a total waste of money. Their marketing/advertising is very misleading at best.


Skip Douglas
A few cameras and over 50 years behind them .....
..... but still learning all the time.

  
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Wilt
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Oct 12, 2011 11:20 |  #3

With lighting modifiers, SIZE MATTERS! Anything that small is useless, when available ceilings and walls are not available to serve as large virtual sources of light.

As for the preceding statement about 'misleading', here is one example...http://www.garyfongest​ore.com …op-up-flash-diffuser.html (external link)

"This is an UNRETOUCHED image from a SONY A-230 set on "fill flash" mode with the Puffer at ISO400, without and with"
...and it shows the interior ceiling illuminated from more than 50' away...


  1. gimme a break, with Sony spec of GN10 (Meters) at ISO100, the A230 flash fill would not reach that far. At ISO400 (the stated ISO for that shot) the Guide Number is GN20 (meters). With f/2 on the lens, the flash would reach 10 meters (33').
  2. How is it that the ceiling 60' away is brightened about the same amount as the shadows from the piano half as far away, when the Inverse Square pricinciple causes light intensity falloff resulting in 0.25x intensity when twice as far away?! A Puffer alone would NOT have that effect on the scene in the example! Note how the area immediately beneath the triangular window lights are brightened the same amount, regardless of distance? How can any single flash do that?!?!

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Canon dSLR system, Olympus OM 35mm system, Bronica ETRSi 645 system, Horseman LS 4x5 system, Metz flashes, Dynalite studio lighting, and too many accessories to mention

  
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h1r0ll3r
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Oct 12, 2011 12:01 |  #4

I see. I thought it seemed a little too gimmicky for something that's $25.

And Wilt, I have no idea what anything you said means so, rather than have you dumb it down for me, I'll just take your word on that :D

Guess I'll just learn to live with the 430 EX II and work with it, instead of around it.

Thanks guys.


Canon T3i [Gripped]
17-55
| 55-250 MKII | Rokinon 8mm Fisheye HD | 430 EX II

  
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Dustman
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Oct 12, 2011 12:26 |  #5

I bought it based on all the positive feedback on b&H's website. I personally hated it, thought it was a waste of money, and it has virtual no positive effect on light quality...........On that note, Want to buy mine?? I purchased it about 1 year ago from B&H. I honestly used it just 1 time, li looks just like new, just sitting in a drawer collecting dust. It's yours for $10, lol


www.DustinLevine.com (external link)

  
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Wilt
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Oct 12, 2011 12:36 |  #6

h1r0ll3r wrote in post #13240437 (external link)
I see. I thought it seemed a little too gimmicky for something that's $25.

And Wilt, I have no idea what anything you said means so, rather than have you dumb it down for me, I'll just take your word on that :D

Guess I'll just learn to live with the 430 EX II and work with it, instead of around it.

Thanks guys.

Dumbed down...

With GN20 meters (ISO 400) for the A230 flash, using f/4 on the lens the flash should offer sufficient intensity at 5m (16.4') distance, while using f/2 on the lens the flash would only offer sufficient illumination out to about 10m (33'). If the area to be illuminated was 20m away, it would take the lens setting of f/1 to achieve the same level of illumination!!!

If the flash intensity needs lens aperture of f/4 at 5m and f/2 at 10m, and f/1 at 20m, it is apparent that the flash intensity falls off with the Square of the Distance (Inverse Square Law of light intensity from flash unit)...double the distance = 1/4 the light intensity. A scene illuminated by a single flash should exibit this falloff of light intensity as you go deeper into the scene (farther from the flash). The Fong illustration fails to obey Physics and the Inverse Square principle, and is therefore failing to disclose the conditions leading to the shot...Deception by omission!


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Wilt
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Oct 12, 2011 12:43 |  #7

More deception...http://www.garyfongest​ore.com …here-universal-cloud.html (external link)

Pair of photos of bride and groom in front of a candle. Ask yourself how ANY flash can possibly make candle's flame brighter?! It can't. Deception by omission, leaving out the facts behind the shutter and aperture changes needed to brighten the candle flame! :mad:


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Canon dSLR system, Olympus OM 35mm system, Bronica ETRSi 645 system, Horseman LS 4x5 system, Metz flashes, Dynalite studio lighting, and too many accessories to mention

  
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h1r0ll3r
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Oct 12, 2011 13:52 |  #8

I see. Totally not worth the effort then. Thanks for explaining the flash bit Wilt. Seems pretty shady how they market their stuff but, oh well. Thanks again everyone.


Canon T3i [Gripped]
17-55
| 55-250 MKII | Rokinon 8mm Fisheye HD | 430 EX II

  
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JakAHearts
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Nov 03, 2011 10:12 |  #9

Wilt wrote in post #13240643 (external link)
More deception...http://www.garyfongest​ore.com …here-universal-cloud.html (external link)

Pair of photos of bride and groom in front of a candle. Ask yourself how ANY flash can possibly make candle's flame brighter?! It can't. Deception by omission, leaving out the facts behind the shutter and aperture changes needed to brighten the candle flame! :mad:

LoL Also, in the bride pic, Im pretty sure the first shot is a crop from a portrait orientation shot where the direct flash shadow is more obvious. Where as the second shot looks like a crop using the Fong from a landscape orientation.


Shane
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ebert
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Nov 03, 2011 10:22 |  #10

I am just an amateur, but it does show a noticeable difference over undiffused light.

That being said, I got it for free, and I wouldn't spend $25 on one.... It'd probably be better to just make your own DIY diffuser.


macro enthusiast | Gear and Feedback

  
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HughR
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Nov 03, 2011 11:31 |  #11

To original poster:
You already own a 430EX II and a T3i. That means that you can use the 430EX II wirelessly off camera controlled by the pop-up, and you can use the pop-up for some fill as well. I have the same flash and the Canon 60D and do this all the time. The results are vastly better than anything you can do with the pop-up alone. Also, the Lumiquest Softbox III attaches easily to the 430EX II and provides vastly more diffusion than the Fong Puffer (about 20x more!). If the Softbox III is positioned close enough to the subject, it does a beautiful job. My self-portrait in my avatar was done this way. You can check out the Lumiquest at:

http://www.lumiquest.c​om …umiQuest-SoftBox-III.html (external link)


Hugh
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boerewors
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Nov 03, 2011 11:38 |  #12

Geez after seeing the evidence, i think someone should take Mr. Fong to court.
To the original poster: i am a bit of a beginner myself but i can give you a little advice. If you are doing indoor portraits with on camera flash, use your 430EX on camera and pointed up to the roof if its white and not too high. you will get a bounce with a surface area thats large enough to soften shadows. You can attach a small white card on your 430EX to face the direction of the lens. This will fill in some of the raccoon eye shadows caused by the bounce flash thats comming in from high. I personally like this method the best for indoors but for me the card surface area should be very small so as not to block too much light from the speedlight and also not to create too much fill that it ends up becomming the main source of light and making the bounce become the fill.
At the end of the day the light source needs to be large in order to soften shadows. The only way to do this on camera is to bounce the light onto a larger surface such as a wall or a roof. If you want an on camera modifier that will soften shadows, you should be looking at macro photography. If photographing people, i beleive there is no on camera solution to softening shadows except bouncing the flash. I have seen some people use ring lights with huge beauty dish like modifiers, but then youre gonna be holding a half meter wide camera at an event and you will receive some odd stares :)


The most important piece of gear you own, resides in your head and its called your brain.

  
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ekinnyc
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Nov 03, 2011 12:06 |  #13

TLDR

i have a puffer that i got as a gift. i see no difference, save your $25


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Executive ­ Images ­ Photo
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Nov 03, 2011 12:34 |  #14

Wilt wrote in post #13240643 (external link)
More deception...http://www.garyfongest​ore.com …here-universal-cloud.html (external link)

Pair of photos of bride and groom in front of a candle. Ask yourself how ANY flash can possibly make candle's flame brighter?! It can't. Deception by omission, leaving out the facts behind the shutter and aperture changes needed to brighten the candle flame! :mad:

The flash didnt make the candle brighter....in the first example the flash over powered the candle thus making the candle look dim. :rolleyes:


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FLiPMaRC
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Nov 03, 2011 12:58 |  #15

I got the cheap eBay Lightsphere for $10 :lol: Just thought I'd try it out ;)

IMAGE: http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Lambency-Flash-Diffuser-fo-Canon-430EX-420EX-F36AM-/00/s/NTAwWDUwMA==/$(KGrHqF,!lsE6Cgk,2Z+BOsVIq7OzQ~~60_12.JPG

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Compact Flash Diffusers for built in flash
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