Which Fisheye/Ultra-wide angle lens???

As of now I have a fully manual Rokinon 8mm F3.5 fisheye and I love how it takes pictures with out much spherical aberration or distortion due to its aspherical design. The only problem is I am getting very tired of continuously having to pay attention to the focus ring as well as the exposure. I am looking to sell this lens to buy one that has auto focus and TTL metering, but want one that doesn't stretch peoples limbs horribly out of proportion. I have previously owned the Canon 10-22mm and was not pleased with the results.

The lens I have been looking into the most is the Sigma 10mm F2.8.
Any comments or thoughts on this lens?

Any other suggestions?

Canon 10-22mm distortion.

I've been happy with the Tokina 10-17 fisheye. It's a crop lens but can be used on a full frame body from about 14mm without vignetting.

Does that lens stretch/distort the image very much? Thanks

cronu wrote in post #13475174
Does that lens stretch/distort the image very much? Thanks

Just as much as any UWA/fisheye. The distortion all depends on your perspective, distance to subject, and the framing of the subject. If you stick someone in the corner of a shot with a fisheye or ultrawide lens, they will be stretched out. Bottom line.

Well the distortion you get is very different between ultrawides and fisheyes. The Tokina fisheye zoom at 10mm will give the same image as the Sigma 10mm and very nearly the same as the Rokinon you already have. The Canon 10-22 at 10mm will give a narrower angle of view with a very different projection geometry (i.e. different distortions near the corners).

I can vouch for the Sigma 10mm. My research showed it to be the best option for crop cameras in terms of sharpness, aberrations, flare resistance and contrast.

I currently have one for sale, as I now have the Canon 8-15L fisheye zoom, but I'm in UK.

In adequate light, keep the diaphragm on a large number, focusing just prior to infinity and everything from few feet to infinity should be well in focus with no need to focus at all. even in wide open 3.5, you should have a good DOF.

Keep the shutter on AP and exposure should be as good as you wish and in case you are very picky on exposure, use auto bracketing in same mode (Camera changing Shutter speed) so you have 3 images to choose what you need.

That Rokinon you have is a gem if you know how to. If you really are tired of it (That lateron you will surely regret) try Sigma 8mm. You of course get the spherical format fisheye, but lens does all AF stuff for you for the cheapest price of market. If you don't like the spherical format, you off course can crop as you need on post processing.

8-15 L F/4
http://learn.usa.canon​.com …isheye_Lens_art​icle.shtml

samsen wrote in post #13479521
In adequate light, keep the diaphragm on a large number, focusing just prior to infinity and everything from few feet to infinity should be well in focus with no need to focus at all. even in wide open 3.5, you should have a good DOF.

Keep the shutter on AP and exposure should be as good as you wish and in case you are very picky on exposure, use auto bracketing in same mode (Camera changing Shutter speed) so you have 3 images to choose what you need.

That Rokinon you have is a gem if you know how to. If you really are tired of it (That lateron you will surely regret) try Sigma 8mm. You of course get the spherical format fisheye, but lens does all AF stuff for you for the cheapest price of market. If you don't like the spherical format, you off course can crop as you need on post processing.

This is good information. I have been tossing the idea around and couldn't make up my mind because I do like the results of the pictures through this lens. The money to make up the difference of a new lens that I wouldn't mind using on a 580ex II has also been making me not want to sell it. Thanks for taking the time to write this out. I have never used auto bracketing and I will definitely be experimenting with it over the next few weeks. Thanks again!