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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 14 Nov 2011 (Monday) 15:05
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FJ ­ LOVE
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Dec 14, 2011 00:37 |  #2566

Csae wrote in post #13542099 (external link)
I'm seeing a halo of sorts....

Will try to recreate the angle (you didnt make it easy for me did ya considering i have to do it with a PLM you know:P) and get a reading.

I kept the 64"SPLM as an outdoor powerboosting modifier, but it doesn't like wind, so if the fBall can come close, i'd prefer it and will put up the PLM up whenever that comes back in stock.

what do you need 4' high 5' out pointed straight at the wall ?

you asked about full length portrait i assumed you would position the light in a beauty type position  :p


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Csae
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Dec 14, 2011 00:39 |  #2567

Lol, yes, yes i suppose i did....


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kokakaste2
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Dec 14, 2011 02:15 as a reply to  @ Csae's post |  #2568

Csae wrote in post #13540678 (external link)
Actually i also remember reading that iso 160 is better then iso100 or iso200.

Full-stops is one thing but iso100 is not the natural base iso of the camera, iso160 is for some reason... or something like that.

I know I read that some time ago, really odd.

Aressem wrote in post #13541412 (external link)
lolwtf?

Still lower than Nikon ISO200 base :lol:

Sheldon N wrote in post #13541683 (external link)
QUOTED IMAGE

That picture is epic :lol:

Csae wrote in post #13541866 (external link)
A landscape photographer that doesn't camp out... hilarious. Whats next a photographer with no camera?

Think we all know a photographer who left his camera at home? :p


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Csae
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Dec 14, 2011 03:04 |  #2569

I think that picture needs to be hanged on every first post of every new Eli Mark thread, as a warning to those who trespass without enough sillyness.


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avidstarr
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Dec 14, 2011 04:00 |  #2570

abbadon31 wrote in post #13542000 (external link)
Dap Weld wood adhesive

I will look into that :D

FJ LOVE wrote in post #13541996 (external link)
ya that 3M adhesive is good stuff :cool:

Roger!


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avidstarr
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Dec 14, 2011 04:09 |  #2571

Any opinions on a 69 rota octa vs 74 octa indirect? im thinking the rota gives more spread with a hot spot, where as the 74 is a lesser spread with more even spread so you dont notice the hot spot. other than that, i think both gives good soft light. also i think setting up the indirect is easier than the rota. Just wanting some opinions as im in the market for one ^-^


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Csae
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Dec 14, 2011 04:22 |  #2572

They are both pretty easy to set-up.

the 74" is larger and if you don't have a wireless way of controlling the light output, annoying to use. Its also i think more then twice the cost of the 69". Its more even softer output.

The 69" is a direct, dual diffusion large Octa that is pretty darn even, the hotspot is not noticeable and its well under a stop from edge to edge if i remember right.

Both are great, if you have the money and space, the 74" is no brainer, if not, the 69" is also quite huge but alot cheaper.


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kokakaste2
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Dec 14, 2011 05:14 as a reply to  @ Csae's post |  #2573

Csae wrote in post #13542504 (external link)
I think that picture needs to be hanged on every first post of every new Eli Mark thread, as a warning to those who trespass without enough sillyness.

Agree :lol:


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TMR ­ Design
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Dec 14, 2011 06:19 as a reply to  @ kokakaste2's post |  #2574

For the record...

Despite Nikon's base ISO of 200, I shoot at ISO 100 quite a bit and have never noticed a problem, even when pixel peeping.


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Dec 14, 2011 06:45 |  #2575

avidstarr wrote in post #13542580 (external link)
Any opinions on a 69 rota octa vs 74 octa indirect? im thinking the rota gives more spread with a hot spot, where as the 74 is a lesser spread with more even spread so you dont notice the hot spot. other than that, i think both gives good soft light. also i think setting up the indirect is easier than the rota. Just wanting some opinions as im in the market for one ^-^

I don't own the 74" indirect so I can't help with comparisons, but I can tell you that the 69" octa is an excellent modifier. It's a direct lightbox that comes with 2 layers of fabric diffusion and a white translucent deflector, giving you quite a bit of control of the center hot spot.

One thing to keep in mind is that as much as we scrutinize over evenness of light from a lightbox, you really don't want perfectly even light and you don't want to completely eliminate the hot spot.

The key is to not buy crap lightboxes that show 1 stop or more difference from center to edge. Most high quality boxes will show about 1/3 stop loss towards the edges and that's fine.


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Dec 14, 2011 06:47 |  #2576

Well maybe Canon's undocumented base ISO is 160, but I'm not effing around with 1/3 stop ISOs to use it.>:-o Full stop ISOs for me, overexpose by 1/3 stop if the subject allows when using higher ISOs, then bring back in post.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.


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Csae
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Dec 14, 2011 06:51 |  #2577

Heh, i'm at whatever iso i need to be.

I do remembering hearing that something like iso100 is okay, iso160 is better, but iso130 is worse then iso200. or something.

God i can't remember, but bottom line is i really don't bother caring, i normally go by 160,320, 640 just out of habit and because i like those numbers better, randomly.

Rob: I don't shoot iso50 too often so i cant comment on whether or not it has any issues, but its a 5dmk2 thing to band at iso100, the 5d1 and most other canon cameras i've used have not experienced this. However, the 5d1 did experience banding when coupled with a cactusv4, which leads me to believe it is a defect in the sensor RF shielding that is causing the banding which is why it would present itself even at iso100. Most don't mind it as its not as present and obvious as some would suggest, in my opinion oldgen AF and the banding is the price to pay for such a ridiculous MP FF sensor with highisos so cheaply, considering that when it came out 20MP was what, 1ds3/D3 territory period. The 7d was canon's late answer to the D700/D300 was which the answer to the 5D1, Nikon now has to answer the 5d2, but since canon had that mangled AF, Nikon hasn't been in a hurry and is instead trying to kill both the 5d2 and 5d3 in one shot with the d800. (At least thats my reasoning, and you heard it here first folks, though you probably already knew, and can you tell how jacked up i am on caffeine yet? couple more to go, then a shopping trip, then i can be laid to rest.)

I don't have a cat, i can't feed it, stop trying to get me to buy a cat POTN! I WONT DO IT! But i will experience a passive +3 increase in productivity.


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Dec 14, 2011 07:04 |  #2578

Case

You get hosed dynamic range wise using intermediate ISOs and a double whammy is when using the full stop + 1/3 ISOs (130, etc), which gives you the worst noise.


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Dec 14, 2011 07:07 |  #2579

Anyone know if the PCB 7" grids fit the Elinchrom 7" reflector?


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Dec 14, 2011 07:14 |  #2580

windpig wrote in post #13542878 (external link)
Case

You get hosed dynamic range wise using intermediate ISOs and a double whammy is when using the full stop + 1/3 ISOs (130, etc), which gives you the worst noise.

I can honestly say i've never noticed it.

If DR is a concern, i'm doing an AEB... Studio iso100 again out of habit, since i know my fstops and lights by that, iso200 is easy to calculate if needed aslong as i start off with iso100.

If i'm doing a landscape where DR is a concern, i'll be doing an AEB.

Would anyone like to find the actual thread where this is discussed in length with the proper numbers? I don't remember anything about the DR being hosed, i wouldn't be surprised if you lost a little bit, but i remember it being iso160 is a iso200-1/3, iso125 is iso100+1/3, doing -1/3 gave better SNR t'ill about the iso2ks.


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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
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