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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 19 Dec 2011 (Monday) 01:44
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POLL: "What would you by for street photography"
35L
38
34.5%
24L II
5
4.5%
50L
24
21.8%
16-35 II
9
8.2%
Zeiss 35 f/1.4
10
9.1%
Zeiss 50 f/2 MP
1
0.9%
Canon 17-40
6
5.5%
85L
17
15.5%

110 voters, 110 votes given (1 choice only choices can be voted per member)). VOTING IS FOR MEMBERS ONLY.
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2000$ to spent (street photography)

 
bobbyz
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Dec 19, 2011 12:51 |  #31

About expensive gear comments don't you guys have insurance? Really cheap for piece of mind. Then use what ever gear you have.


5dmk3, 35L, 85L II, 300mm f2.8 IS I, 400mm f5.6
Fuji XT-1, 14mm f2.8, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 56mm f1.2, 90mm f2, 50-140mm f2.8

  
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twoshadows
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Dec 19, 2011 12:56 |  #32

Btw, i want to point out that I find shooting wide to be much more difficult on the street than shooting long. It almost certainly requires interaction, which I find challenging and I must be "up" for it. It also involves rejection and emotional discomfort, but it's part of the territory.

My style involves getting to know many of my subjects personally and this helps me form what kind of photo I am looking for. Many of my photos are the result of weeks, months or even years of acquainting myself with the person and their situation so I can show them in the correct "light" (pardon the pun, lol). Other photos are chance meetings.


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twoshadows
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Dec 19, 2011 12:58 |  #33

bobbyz wrote in post #13568903 (external link)
About expensive gear comments don't you guys have insurance? Really cheap for piece of mind. Then use what ever gear you have.

My insurance has a deductible that I don't want to have to pay. :(

Besides, the more expensive the gear, the bigger the mark (in general).


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Tom ­ Reichner
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Dec 19, 2011 13:04 |  #34

Ian,

Very effective imagery! A little different than the true "candid close-up" concept I have of street photography, but excellent images nonetheless!

Thanks for the explanation and examples.


"Your" and "you're" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"They're", "their", and "there" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"Fare" and "fair" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one. The proper expression is "moot point", NOT "mute point".

  
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twoshadows
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Dec 19, 2011 13:37 |  #35

Thanks, Tom. :)


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sjones
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Dec 19, 2011 13:44 as a reply to  @ Tom Reichner's post |  #36

I generally don't go for super close-ups, since it is person's the visual interaction with the surroundings that typically motivates me to click the button (just to note, street photography doesn't even need to include a human, whether close or far...)

Also, remember, the further you stand back, the less angle of experimentation you have, and the greater the chance of obstacles getting in front of you, or for that matter, behind you.

As I've mentioned in similar threads, there have been times when even a 50mm on full frame was too long lest I step back out into a busy street (which I sure some folks would have been glad to urge). And sometimes those buildings can get in the way too.

Again, for street, I wouldn't tell someone not to use a 500mm if that's what they feel will get the job done, but nor would I certainly tell them not to consider wide/standard. Go to the book store, pick up a book on street photography, any book on the subject, and most of the photographers featured are liking using a wide or standard.

How close do you want to get? The classic painted face shot that takes up the whole frame? Well, you might want to toss out the candid element and ask the subject, as twoshadows noted.

In any event, because I use preset focus and compose mentally before the shot, the camera is up to my eye for a second or less in some cases...being discrete and observant can do wonders.

If I wanted the close ups that you are seeking, I could still pretty much take the same approach, but just using a 135, for example.

Or, if you have the nerve, you can take this controversial route:
http://www.youtube.com​/watch?v=kkIWW6vwrvM (external link)


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Ferrari_Alex
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Dec 19, 2011 13:53 |  #37

This is what street is for me:

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Naturally, you want to purchase the lens that can serve several purposes. For example, if you go for 35L, I think you have something good for street photography, for people photography in the low light (indoor) and for landscape too.

I see that even though there are 2 lenses with 35 and f/1.4 - one of them completely dominates the other. Is it because the other is pretty new and not many people have it?

Alex || www.dylikowski.com (external link)
_______________
Canon 5D MKII | 24-105 f/4 IS L | 70-200 f/2.8 IS II L |Zeiss 35 f/1.4 ZE

  
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Tom ­ Reichner
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Dec 19, 2011 13:58 |  #38

sjones wrote in post #13569184 (external link)
Or, if you have the nerve, you can take this controversial route:
http://www.youtube.com​/watch?v=kkIWW6vwrvM (external link)

SJONES, there is no video at that link. The area where there is supposed to be a video is a plain black screen. The comments under it are complaints that all there is is a plain black screen, so it's not just me that can't view it.
Do you have a better link to this video - somewhere where we could actually see it?
Thanks


"Your" and "you're" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"They're", "their", and "there" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"Fare" and "fair" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one. The proper expression is "moot point", NOT "mute point".

  
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bobbyz
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Dec 19, 2011 14:01 |  #39

twoshadows wrote in post #13568940 (external link)
My insurance has a deductible that I don't want to have to pay. :(

Besides, the more expensive the gear, the bigger the mark (in general).

When I had non professional insurance, there was no deductible (state farm). Cost was like $200/yr ofr $20k+ stuff.


5dmk3, 35L, 85L II, 300mm f2.8 IS I, 400mm f5.6
Fuji XT-1, 14mm f2.8, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 56mm f1.2, 90mm f2, 50-140mm f2.8

  
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palaima
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Dec 19, 2011 14:06 |  #40

Tom Reichner wrote in post #13568692 (external link)
Ian, I don't understand this choice. How are you getting candid closeups of strangers with so wide a lens? Do you crop most of the image away to get the closeup image you are looking for? If so, why not simply use a longer lens - then you'd be putting many more pixels on the subject's face, giving you much greater detail and higher image quality.

It is very easy to get close.


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MakeMeShutter
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Dec 19, 2011 14:13 |  #41

Canon 35mm f1.4L USM

It just makes me all warm and fuzzy inside!


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palaima
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Dec 19, 2011 14:15 |  #42

Ferrari_Alex wrote in post #13569227 (external link)
This is what street is for me:
IMAGE NOT FOUND
HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Content warning: script

IMAGE NOT FOUND
HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Content warning: script

IMAGE NOT FOUND
HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Content warning: script

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Naturally, you want to purchase the lens that can serve several purposes. For example, if you go for 35L, I think you have something good for street photography, for people photography in the low light (indoor) and for landscape too.

I see that even though there are 2 lenses with 35 and f/1.4 - one of them completely dominates the other. Is it because the other is pretty new and not many people have it?

About 35's - it is true, zeiss is very expensive and new and for people that like MF (not many these days).
We can give you advice as much as you want, but it is you who is gonna use the thing for photography, take something which feels right for you. My 35L feels right for me, yes i know i risk taking it to street (i even take off the hood to make it smaller.... filter power!) but hey, if it makes me feel comfortable. Plus street is such a place where you have to be ONE with your gear, there is no time to think about dials. You see, you capture, because one millisecond and the look in the persons eyes is gone or the choreography is lost.
The only true advice i can give you is keep it wide - up to 50 at most. You can always get closer, just work on technique.


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jfueng
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Dec 19, 2011 14:46 |  #43

You should spend that $2k on a flight to central america and hangout there for a few weeks.




  
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sjones
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Dec 19, 2011 15:35 |  #44

Tom Reichner wrote in post #13569249 (external link)
SJONES, there is no video at that link. The area where there is supposed to be a video is a plain black screen. The comments under it are complaints that all there is is a plain black screen, so it's not just me that can't view it.
Do you have a better link to this video - somewhere where we could actually see it?
Thanks

This should work. The last link worked when I posted, but it is now a black screen for me as well.

http://www.youtube.com …e8&feature=watc​h_response (external link)

Anyway, this is not a recommendation, as this style is even far too intrusive (rude) for me, but Gilden has managed to take some interesting photos.


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It's the Photographer (external link) | God Loves Photoshop (external link)

  
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Ferrari_Alex
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Dec 19, 2011 15:49 |  #45

jfueng wrote in post #13569518 (external link)
You should spend that $2k on a flight to central america and hangout there for a few weeks.

It has a dedicated budget:-)


Alex || www.dylikowski.com (external link)
_______________
Canon 5D MKII | 24-105 f/4 IS L | 70-200 f/2.8 IS II L |Zeiss 35 f/1.4 ZE

  
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