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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 01 Jan 2012 (Sunday) 16:59
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Perfect night shot

 
RPCrowe
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Jan 02, 2012 18:05 as a reply to  @ post 13632928 |  #31

You MUST have a tripod or find some other steady support for your camera.

I suggest that you use ISO 160 or 320 with your camera in the "A" mode.

Choose an aperture 1-stop below maximum for best IQ...

Set your camera to Auto Exposure Bracketing (AEB) with one stop between exposures...

Set your exposure to -1 EV...

Set your camera to burst...

NOTE: read in your manual how to do these last three...

Frame your subject and trip your shutter using with a remote cord or the self timer...

The camera will shoot three frames with the following parameters:

1) as the camera meters (the various lights will often be over exposed)
2) 1-stop below what the camera meters
3) 2-stops below what the camera meters

You will, most often, get at least one good frame out of this and will often be able to combine 2-3 frames as an HDR image...

If the exposure looks too bright on your LCD, set the cameras exposure to -2 EV...

Very often, the best "night" shots of a city scape are done at the "magic hour" as the light begins to fade but when there is enough to delineate the building outlines.

I have found that shooting at "magic hour" is best in the winter on working days because sunset occurs earlier and many offices in buildings have their lights on. Summer "magic hour" is aften at 8pm or later when most offices are locked up for the day with the lights off.

Almost a required accessory for night shooting is a flashlight; both to see your camera settings and to manuever around without falling over something.

If your shutter speeds are too slow, use mirror lock-up. In that case, you cannot shoot in burst mode but must shoot three individual exposures for each grouping.

NOTE: I am assuming that the Rebel cameras have AEB. I have a relatively ancient D60 (not the 60D) that has the three burst AEB cabability. On my x0D and 7D cameras, the AEB will revert back to standard exposure after the camera is shut off or lens changed. I can change my menu settings to allow the camera to continue AEB until I deselect it. I don't know if the Rebels have that capability. In fact, I am not sure that they will do the three shot bracketing and shut off either. If they don't you must do each shot invividually.


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stu00a
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Jan 02, 2012 18:05 |  #32

anyone know how to use speedlight for nightshot?




  
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MakisM1
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Jan 02, 2012 18:37 |  #33

Never said it is as good. I am sick and tired of people saying you can't do this or that in jpg, when is patently false.

I am very well aware what I get with RAW and what I get with jpg and use them appropriately. In this 'stupid place' I am just pointing out that yes you can change WB with jpg, you don't HAVE to shoot RAW to do the change.


Gerry
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Mark-B
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Jan 02, 2012 18:37 |  #34

stu00a wrote in post #13635965 (external link)
anyone know how to use speedlight for nightshot?

Use manual exposure for the background, then use your light to expose your subject.
If your shutter is going to be slow enough that your picture shows subject movement, then you will probably want to use 2nd curtain sync.


Mark-B
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Todd ­ Lambert
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Jan 02, 2012 19:45 |  #35

Delija wrote in post #13635887 (external link)
Wow..some really spectacular shots! Beautiful!

Thanks Delija! :oops:




  
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Mark ­ II
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Jan 02, 2012 20:49 as a reply to  @ post 13632928 |  #36

The Blue moments in my back yard...


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Todd ­ Lambert
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Jan 02, 2012 20:56 |  #37

I really like that Mark. The blue hour definitely helps that shot for sure.




  
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skater911
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Jan 02, 2012 21:00 |  #38

Todd Lambert wrote in post #13634969 (external link)
There's no such thing as the perfect night shot. It's like saying the perfect day time shot.

Shooting at night is the same as shooting during the day, only with a few different sacrifices and a few different methodologies.

I've shot at night during the blue hour, and at 4am. I've shot in all different kinds of lighting and weather. There's no desired settings, it just depends on what you want to do or accomplish.

As for the WB, there is definitely an advantage to shooting RAW. Yes, you can alter the WB in a jpg, but it's a lossy format. You would much rather be able to alter things at the data level, which is what RAW allows you to do.

Hope that helps.

Hell, you have shown some of your shots that were in the middle of the night and look like they were taken at 12 noon. You have some really good shots and techniques.


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nickphoto
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Jan 02, 2012 21:11 |  #39

MakisM1 wrote in post #13636127 (external link)
Never said it is as good. I am sick and tired of people saying you can't do this or that in jpg, when is patently false.

I am very well aware what I get with RAW and what I get with jpg and use them appropriately. In this 'stupid place' I am just pointing out that yes you can change WB with jpg, you don't HAVE to shoot RAW to do the change.

You can perform minor WB tweaks to a JPG without destroying it but too much of a change and it's noticeably worse for the image than tweaking a RAW file.

The image you posted has an awful WB and appears to be out-of-focus.


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skater911
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Jan 02, 2012 21:15 as a reply to  @ nickphoto's post |  #40

one thing i noticed in the video was that he used a magenta filter, is that necessary or can you just add it in post? I never thought of that, but sounds like a great idea.


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MakisM1
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Jan 02, 2012 22:08 |  #41

nickphoto wrote in post #13636815 (external link)
You can perform minor WB tweaks to a JPG without destroying it but too much of a change and it's noticeably worse for the image than tweaking a RAW file.

The image you posted has an awful WB and appears to be out-of-focus.

It is not White Balanced, the colors are tweaked and it's an HDR. That's the way I liked it ;)

"Without destroying it?" Like how?


Gerry
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OS: Linux Ubuntu/PostProcessing: Darktable/Image Processing: GIMP

  
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Todd ­ Lambert
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Jan 02, 2012 22:32 |  #42

MakisM1 wrote in post #13637121 (external link)
"Without destroying it?" Like how?

You understand that jpeg is a lossy format, correct? You know that you can't alter it in any way, without destroying data. It's the nature of a lossy format.

RAW allows you to completely change the WB without affecting any of the 1s and 0s. You can change it from one extreme to the other and back again.

If you do that with jpeg, it is changing the 1s and 0s each time you alter it, thus degrading the image.




  
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StructuredAmazing
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Jan 02, 2012 22:35 |  #43

Nino61 wrote in post #13630559 (external link)
Hi guys I am new to Photography, and having recently bought a Eos 600 D I want to try to take the perfect night shot of a city buildings at night.

Can someone give me some settings that I should try, and in easy terms as I am new to all this.
Cheers
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Show us some of your shots when you have the time!


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stevewf1
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Jan 03, 2012 00:00 |  #44

Gregg.Siam wrote in post #13632259 (external link)
IMHO the best time for a night shot is the blue hour. Not really an hour, more like 10-15 minutes. It's when the sun drops below the horizon, but still enough light to make the sky a very cool blue color.

Very true!

It's much the same with sunrise/sunset photography. You don't have a lot of time to play with, so you have to be where you want to be, when you want to be - and be ready...


Steve

  
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Mark ­ II
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Jan 03, 2012 03:59 |  #45

Todd Lambert wrote in post #13636746 (external link)
I really like that Mark. The blue hour definitely helps that shot for sure.

Thanks, Todd.... Much respect for your work, here.;)


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Canon 85 L II, EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II, EF 24-105L, 16-35mm f/2.8 II L, 100L & 60mm Macro , Fisheye EF 15mm f2.8, Tokina 10-17

  
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Perfect night shot
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