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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 08 Jan 2012 (Sunday) 22:23
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studio lighting help

 
vinmunoz
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Jan 08, 2012 22:23 |  #1

Hello guyz, I just bought myself a cheapo umbrella setup, reflectors and yongnuo rf-603 that goes with my 430EX II...

I need tips and cc on the following test shots.

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ISO100 | F10 | 1/250th of a second | Focal Length 30mm

on the above shot, dark areas on the bottom showed up. I have to reduced the shutter speed to get rid of it. on my son's right cheek there's a hotspot. Do you think it's because it's too close to the umbrella?

the shot below is the one with 1/160 shutter speed.
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ISO100 | F10 | 1/160th of a second | Focal Length 30mm

last question;
is the yongnuo 560 "manual" flash good enough to fill the illumination in the front? can the 560 help with focusing?

OR use my 430EX II in the camera and use the yongnuo in the umbrella. that way i have better focus assist and ETTL.

sorry too many question.

vinz

| SONY A7SIII(2) | A73 | A6000 | Sony A7IV | Sigma105 | FE1635F4 | Tamron 70-180mm F2.8 | Tamron 17-28 Tamron 28-75 | FE50F1.8 | Sony 16035F4PZ | SEL30mm F3.5 Macro | Canon 24mm TSE | Laowa 15mm Shift
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Tim ­ S
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Jan 09, 2012 07:22 |  #2

1. Yes, 1/160 or 1/200 should eliminate the out of sync banding

2. Adjust flash power in maual or FEC in ETTL to remove the hot spot.

3. The 560 throws more light than the 430 so dial it down for fill or use it as key and the 430 for fill (also dialed down)


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vinmunoz
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Jan 09, 2012 11:06 |  #3

Thank you very much.

Yup that's my plan. 560 as key and the 430 as the fill. i believed 430 also has better focus assist, am i right?

is the 560 good enough as key or should i get the 565ex?

in the shots below, i used my gold umbrella but further away and almost in the front so i don't have to use a reflector. here's what i got.

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what do you think?

| SONY A7SIII(2) | A73 | A6000 | Sony A7IV | Sigma105 | FE1635F4 | Tamron 70-180mm F2.8 | Tamron 17-28 Tamron 28-75 | FE50F1.8 | Sony 16035F4PZ | SEL30mm F3.5 Macro | Canon 24mm TSE | Laowa 15mm Shift
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Curtis ­ N
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Jan 09, 2012 11:58 |  #4

vinmunoz wrote in post #13673554 (external link)
is the 560 good enough as key or should i get the 565ex?

Among hotshoe flash units, the only "feature" that becomes useful in this sort of setup is variable power in manual mode. For example, some units can be adjusted in 1/3 stop increments down to 1/128 power, other units can only be adusted in 1 stop increments down to maybe 1/32. Keep that in mind. Recycle time can sometimes be an issue but even the cheap units recycle in a few seconds at half power.

Nothing wrong with using flash units you already have for this kind of work, but if you find you like to do studio photography then I would recommend saving for some "real" strobes, rather than spend more on battery-powered flash units.

Even "budget priced" strobes will give you a lot more power, fast recycle, modeling lights and AC power (no more futzing with batteries).


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nrowensby
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Jan 09, 2012 15:07 |  #5

The 560 is fine for key... The 565 won't give you anything additional other than TTL, which you won't be using off-camera anyway.

The shot below was taken about an hour after sundown, using one YN560 for main (shot through 43" umbrella), one bare YN560 for fill and a cheap Vivitar 383 gobo'd for background light.

IMAGE: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7161/6559276503_f87313502c_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/nowensby/655927​6503/  (external link)
Jaydin - 12/22/2011 (external link) by owensbyphoto (external link), on Flickr

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vinmunoz
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Jan 09, 2012 18:16 |  #6

thanks guyz.


| SONY A7SIII(2) | A73 | A6000 | Sony A7IV | Sigma105 | FE1635F4 | Tamron 70-180mm F2.8 | Tamron 17-28 Tamron 28-75 | FE50F1.8 | Sony 16035F4PZ | SEL30mm F3.5 Macro | Canon 24mm TSE | Laowa 15mm Shift
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vinmunoz
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Jan 09, 2012 18:19 |  #7

Curtis N wrote in post #13673851 (external link)
Among hotshoe flash units, the only "feature" that becomes useful in this sort of setup is variable power in manual mode. For example, some units can be adjusted in 1/3 stop increments down to 1/128 power, other units can only be adusted in 1 stop increments down to maybe 1/32. Keep that in mind. Recycle time can sometimes be an issue but even the cheap units recycle in a few seconds at half power.

Nothing wrong with using flash units you already have for this kind of work, but if you find you like to do studio photography then I would recommend saving for some "real" strobes, rather than spend more on battery-powered flash units.

Even "budget priced" strobes will give you a lot more power, fast recycle, modeling lights and AC power (no more futzing with batteries).

i'm thinking at least you can bring your speedlights setup anywhere even without a wall outlet.


| SONY A7SIII(2) | A73 | A6000 | Sony A7IV | Sigma105 | FE1635F4 | Tamron 70-180mm F2.8 | Tamron 17-28 Tamron 28-75 | FE50F1.8 | Sony 16035F4PZ | SEL30mm F3.5 Macro | Canon 24mm TSE | Laowa 15mm Shift
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nrowensby
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Jan 09, 2012 18:25 |  #8

vinmunoz wrote in post #13676011 (external link)
i'm thinking at least you can bring your speedlights setup anywhere even without a wall outlet.

That's what Vagabond's are for... ;)


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vinmunoz
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Jan 09, 2012 19:24 |  #9

thanks Nick for making me feel like i choose the right setup. I have cheapo stand though but it's just for practice at home.

i already ordered the 560.


| SONY A7SIII(2) | A73 | A6000 | Sony A7IV | Sigma105 | FE1635F4 | Tamron 70-180mm F2.8 | Tamron 17-28 Tamron 28-75 | FE50F1.8 | Sony 16035F4PZ | SEL30mm F3.5 Macro | Canon 24mm TSE | Laowa 15mm Shift
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Curtis ­ N
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Jan 09, 2012 19:25 |  #10

vinmunoz wrote in post #13676011 (external link)
i'm thinking at least you can bring your speedlights setup anywhere even without a wall outlet.

This is true, but here's the paradox: The places where outlets don't exist are mostly outdoors, where you compete with sunlight. And hotshoe flash units don't have the horsepower to compete with sunlight at reasonable (portrait) distances when you use them with modifiers. And when you're out in the sun, you have other options for manipulating light, such as shades and reflectors.

I have a drawer full of hotshoe flash units but for portrait work I use studio strobes the vast majority of the time.


"If you're not having fun, your pictures will reflect that." - Joe McNally
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vinmunoz
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Jan 10, 2012 23:54 |  #11

You have a point. The reason why i bought cheapo setup is because i'm not really sure. The good thing about continues lighting is you can see the result before taking the shot.

The umbrella kit that i bought from amazon cost me $41.70 only.

can you tell/show me your setup? i'm curious about beauty dish. is there a beauty dish that's continues light?


| SONY A7SIII(2) | A73 | A6000 | Sony A7IV | Sigma105 | FE1635F4 | Tamron 70-180mm F2.8 | Tamron 17-28 Tamron 28-75 | FE50F1.8 | Sony 16035F4PZ | SEL30mm F3.5 Macro | Canon 24mm TSE | Laowa 15mm Shift
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Curtis ­ N
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Jan 11, 2012 09:01 |  #12

My studio gear is pretty basic. I have a couple Alienbees, stands and a collection of umbrellas. I often use these in conjunction with flash units for background/hair/rim lighting.

Take it one step at a time, buy a flash meter, experiment, learn and have fun.


"If you're not having fun, your pictures will reflect that." - Joe McNally
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vinmunoz
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Jan 11, 2012 18:42 |  #13

thanks for sharing. flash meter is not in the list right now but i read about it before.


| SONY A7SIII(2) | A73 | A6000 | Sony A7IV | Sigma105 | FE1635F4 | Tamron 70-180mm F2.8 | Tamron 17-28 Tamron 28-75 | FE50F1.8 | Sony 16035F4PZ | SEL30mm F3.5 Macro | Canon 24mm TSE | Laowa 15mm Shift
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