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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 04 Oct 2009 (Sunday) 12:17
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gonzogolf
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Jan 12, 2012 13:34 |  #7516

Steve Ruddy wrote in post #13692121 (external link)
Would someone care to elaborate on the subject. I have just installed a studio and have no ambient lighting except a lamp over my working/shooting area.

Its about controlling the dilation of the eye. In a dark studio the eye dilates and you get big dark pupils, conversely in a bright studio they draw up and you end up with pupils like small BB's.




  
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Steve ­ Ruddy
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Jan 12, 2012 14:06 |  #7517

windpig wrote in post #13692402 (external link)
Modeling light or a light behind camer.

Was hoping for a little more info than that.


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Jan 12, 2012 14:12 |  #7518

Steve Ruddy wrote in post #13693054 (external link)
Was hoping for a little more info than that.

bw!


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Steve ­ Ruddy
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Jan 12, 2012 14:31 |  #7519

gonzogolf wrote in post #13692845 (external link)
Its about controlling the dilation of the eye. In a dark studio the eye dilates and you get big dark pupils, conversely in a bright studio they draw up and you end up with pupils like small BB's.

So it seems there would be no ideal modeling light that would work in all studios because of varying amounts of ambient light. No? Also is the color temp of the model light an issue?Aside from pupil size it seems like ambient light could also be a huge factor in the end result of any studio photo session. I know when using flash outdoors I can make daylight look like night but I'm assuming it is way harder to do this in a studio. Seems like for the most control the ambient light sources should be split up into zones and have all on their own dimmer. I guess I could be totally wrong but really just want to fully understand.


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Jan 12, 2012 14:41 |  #7520

Steve Ruddy wrote in post #13693194 (external link)
So it seems there would be no ideal modeling light that would work in all studios because of varying amounts of ambient light. No? Also is the color temp of the model light an issue?Aside from pupil size it seems like ambient light could also be a huge factor in the end result of any studio photo session. I know when using flash outdoors I can make daylight look like night but I'm assuming it is way harder to do this in a studio. Seems like for the most control the ambient light sources should be split up into zones and have all on their own dimmer. I guess I could be totally wrong but really just want to fully understand.

There won't be an issue.

Why:

The strength of the modeling lights are miniscule in comparison to the flash. I'm confused on why you think it'd be difficult to make it look like night in a studio because this is an entirely separate issue now. Are you talking about light spill? That's obviously harder to do in a small studio, so yes, you're right but it can be controlled with plenty of doodads i.e., barndoors.


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Jan 12, 2012 15:05 |  #7521

Steve Ruddy wrote in post #13693054 (external link)
Was hoping for a little more info than that.

I didn't realize the comment wasn't clear to you, just trying to help.


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Jan 12, 2012 16:19 |  #7522

First ever photoshoot, and first time ever using flashes. Model is my girlfriend, Olivia

LP160 in 43" shoot through umbrella, LP160 on camera, shooting against the sun. Don't remember power levels, i think they were around 1/4-1/16
http://www.flickr.com …/74201785@N07/6​686522749/ (external link)
http://www.flickr.com …/74201785@N07/6​686528995/ (external link)

i dont know how to embed images from flickr... any help?


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Jan 12, 2012 16:47 |  #7523

NiftyFifty wrote in post #13693865 (external link)
i dont know how to embed images from flickr... any help?

Click share above the photo in flickr and copy the code and paste it here, bbcode option is default I think


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TwoShoes
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Jan 12, 2012 17:09 |  #7524

I love having a bright bright modelling light, the only time I'll turn it down is for really close up work when I start to smell the skin burning :lol:. There's no reason not to pump your modelling light, it's never going to affect the exposure and it helps with pretty much everything (pupils, focus, placement).


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moeronn
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Jan 12, 2012 18:21 |  #7525

NiftyFifty wrote in post #13693865 (external link)
First ever photoshoot, and first time ever using flashes. Model is my girlfriend, Olivia

LP160 in 43" shoot through umbrella, LP160 on camera, shooting against the sun. Don't remember power levels, i think they were around 1/4-1/16
http://www.flickr.com …/74201785@N07/6​686522749/ (external link)
http://www.flickr.com …/74201785@N07/6​686528995/ (external link)

i dont know how to embed images from flickr... any help?

Fairly good balance between ambient and flash, but looks a bit under exposed overall.

Also, I'd suggest backing up and zooming in. 17mm and 22mm is a bit wide, even on a 7D.


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Steve ­ Ruddy
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Jan 12, 2012 19:28 |  #7526

TwoShoes wrote in post #13694208 (external link)
I love having a bright bright modelling light, the only time I'll turn it down is for really close up work when I start to smell the skin burning :lol:. There's no reason not to pump your modelling light, it's never going to affect the exposure and it helps with pretty much everything (pupils, focus, placement).

What are you using for it? I would love to see a photo of how you set it up.

I'm confused on why you think it'd be difficult to make it look like night in a studio because this is an entirely separate issue now. Are you talking about light spill? That's obviously harder to do in a small studio, so yes, you're right but it can be controlled with plenty of doodads i.e., barndoors.

I have heard people say they can make their white background look black so I'm just thinking ahead on how I would achieve that with modeling lights ect. I'm sure I could do it outside with my model far from the background but inside I don't know. Also if I can do it what shutter speed limitations will I encounter.

I didn't realize the comment wasn't clear to you, just trying to help.

No worries it was totally clear thx


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Jan 12, 2012 21:31 |  #7527

Steve Ruddy wrote in post #13692121 (external link)
Would someone care to elaborate on the subject. I have just installed a studio and have no ambient lighting except a lamp over my working/shooting area.

Steve- the models eyes have very large pupils (black part). This is where the light enters the eye. The brighter the light the smaller the pupil, the dimmer the light the larger. Therefore this must have been a dim environment to have the pupils this large. By making the ambient brighter the pupils will remain smaller.


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Jan 12, 2012 21:56 |  #7528

Steve Ruddy wrote in post #13695013 (external link)
I have heard people say they can make their white background look black so I'm just thinking ahead on how I would achieve that with modeling lights ect. I'm sure I could do it outside with my model far from the background but inside I don't know. Also if I can do it what shutter speed limitations will I encounter.

You pull the subject away from the background and get the light close to the subject. Grids help a lot in a small space to control spill and keep light from falling on the background. Shutter speed limits with studio strobes with be your camera sync speed.


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Jan 12, 2012 23:47 |  #7529

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NiftyFifty
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Jan 13, 2012 01:05 |  #7530

moeronn wrote in post #13694631 (external link)
Fairly good balance between ambient and flash, but looks a bit under exposed overall.

Also, I'd suggest backing up and zooming in. 17mm and 22mm is a bit wide, even on a 7D.

Thanks for the comment and criticism, the under exposure was probably cause in pp when I tried to recover too much detail, I actually over exposed the original images by 1/3 of a stop. Ive still not really learned how to do proper post-processing.


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