Another thing to keep in mind is that Smugmug has an API that lets you get at all of your images from a separate website with wrapper libraries in most major programming languages (I've worked with the C# and PHP wrappers in particular).
I'm a web developer who does photography on the side and I built my portfolio site around the Smugmug APIs. It gives me complete control and I'm able to show completely different sets of images on each site, while feeding all of the images from my Smugmug account. For me, doing this was far easier than trying to customize the look and feel of Smugmug through CSS, but that's just because of my lack of CSS skills.
It might be a far stretch for you, but it does give you the ultimate in control over the look and feel of your site.
whoa, that's pretty good. I have to resort to CSS skills, but all I want is something clean and simple. though, i'm surprised not more folks have done what you have. or maybe they have, and just haven't showed it off