Sneeking up on herons

No-Limit wrote in post #13745224
So, this time, I intentionally scared him off by walking back down to the waters edge. He flew off just as expected.

To intentionally scare off a bird to get the shot is really not the way to do it...

Easiest way I've seen to get close to them is leave the camera at home.. never fails me. LOL Seems everytime I don't have the camera I can walk right up to them but as soon as I have the camera and star their way they fly off. I've even had several fly off when I'm in the car.

The way I've gotten Heron photos, is just to sit down and wait for them to wade closer to you. No blind etc, just sitting there waiting. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesnt.

And then there are tame ones. We had one that use to fish from our marina dock all day and night. Two old ladies would come down there after dark to fish for bluegills under the footlights. He would sneak up on them. I use to sit on the front of my houseboat and watch him take his time, but eventually he would get up behind them and dip fish out of their five gallon bucked. It was the funniest thing to watch.

RonSmith wrote in post #13424165
I just walk up, introduce myself and ask if they mind my taking their picture.

Usually works.

Do you have them sign a release?

Is floating a river in a foreign country fair play?

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I just move very slowly for the most part. When they are busy hunting, like this one was Sunday, I move forward when they have their head underwater. I can't imaging all that gear and tripod in a tippy canoe!!

The key is to convince the bird that you are not interested in it as you indirectly approach. Birds, like people, get nervous when they are being stalked.

This is what I use...I have built a model very similar to this one. But have yet to post any photos of it.
**here**

Works great. He uses chest waders but I already had a dry suit and flippers. I also use waders but dry suit works better, you wont get wet and in deeper water you can slip underneath and push it from behind which is easier to paddle.

The only major thing that I have changed is adding some Styrofoam under the plywood for added flotation.

Total Cost: $35

A dry suit is a bit overkill. I only recommend getting one if you plan on doing things other than photograph from a blind; snorkel etc..
Dry Suit: min. $600
Flippers: min $40

Neoprene waders w/ attached boots: $150

BirdBoy wrote in post #13954841
This is what I use...I have built a model very similar to this one. But have yet to post any photos of it.
**here**

Works great. He uses chest waders but I already had a dry suit and flippers. I also use waders but dry suit works better, you wont get wet and in deeper water you can slip underneath and push it from behind which is easier to paddle.

The only major thing that I have changed is adding some Styrofoam under the plywood for added flotation.

Total Cost: $35

A dry suit is a bit overkill. I only recommend getting one if you plan on doing things other than photograph from a blind; snorkel etc..
Dry Suit: min. $600
Flippers: min $40

Neoprene waders w/ attached boots: $150

interesting idea, but unfortunatly its a water resevior... no getting in the water. Its ok though, I should be getting a 150-500mm soon.

Jim makes an excellent point. Birds watch us very closely and they're reading us. If you must walk to get close do it slowly and on an indirect angle approach and look disinterested in the birds. Look down or away, only shifting your eyes in their direction to monitor them. I'll do this even when crawling to approach birds, pausing from time to time to read their reaction to me. In time you'll learn to read their body language and better anticipate their next move. That's when you'll likely get those shots of the day.

You don't need to get in the water to make your shots appear like you were. I have countless shots of herons and other species photographed laying at the water's edge that accomplish the same effect.

Congrats on your new plans for longer glass, it'll certainly help but technique, patience and persistence are every bit as important in the "tool box".