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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 09 Feb 2012 (Thursday) 09:33
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Freezing dancers

 
cdnclicker
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Feb 09, 2012 09:33 |  #1

I would like a little advice.

Explanation of the problem:
I want to photograph dancers moving and jumping mid-air on a white background. I understand that to freeze action without blur, it takes a flash duration as short as possible and this is inversely proportional to the flash output. Using Speedlites is more or less an option since I'll have to shoot over a period of 8 hours and that besides the cost, it will not be practical to spend my time charging batteries. I have a couple of low end Opus studio flashes (OPL-H150 and H250) which are fine for my usual portrait work, but I'm pretty sure that the flash duration is not suitable for my application. This has yet to be tested, but the duration is not even listed on Opus's website, which does not inspire great confidence.

Question:
I can rent a Profoto Pro-7b 2400w/s kit with two heads (also thinking of using a 210 giant silver reflector), which will be my key light and my rimlight. Can I still use my low-end flashes to ensure my background is blasted without causing blur to my subject?




  
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Mr.Beast
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Feb 09, 2012 09:55 |  #2

I think as long as your slower flash duration bg lights don't hit your subject, I would assume you would be fine.


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cdnclicker
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Feb 09, 2012 09:56 |  #3

Thanks Mr. Beast. Can anyone else confirm?




  
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clarence
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Feb 09, 2012 10:08 |  #4

What are you using to trigger the profotos?

Are you then going to use the optical slaves to trigger the Opus background lights?
http://www.opusprophot​o.com …/h_series_monol​ights.html (external link)

Is this a public performance (where the audience will have cameras) or a dedicated photo session?


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[Hyuni]
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Feb 09, 2012 10:11 |  #5

Are you talking about something like this?

IMAGE: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5133/5580674579_65d656ac19_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …s/distinction/5​580674579/  (external link)
Motion Ballet (external link) by Hyuni+ (external link), on Flickr

I know it's on black, but it would work basically the same way.

Just make sure your flash output is strong enough to 'freeze' the subject. What I did here was drag the shutter for 1" and pop the strobe to freeze her.

6D Rokinon 14 f/2.8 l EF 35 ƒ1.4L l EF 135 ƒ2.0L l EF 70-200 ƒ2.8L IS II l YN460 l 580EX II l Flick'd (external link)

  
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cdnclicker
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Feb 09, 2012 10:26 |  #6

Yes Hyuni, that is precisely the type of photography that I'm looking to acheive. Great shot BTW! This is going to be a dedicated photo session in a studio which is for a friend's school project. She was very specific on having no blur. I was thinking of triggering the Profotos via a sync cable (or pocket wizard if budget allows for it) and indeed using the optical slaves on the Opus's. I'm not too worried about flash output as I'm willing to go as high as 400 ISO and as low as f5.6. Of course, 100 ISO and f8-10 is preferred ;-)a




  
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[Hyuni]
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Feb 09, 2012 10:51 |  #7

def possible to shoot stopped down. My exif shows 1" - f/7.1 - ISO200 I believe.
Most important part is to have enough juice in your strobe. Don't remember the power setting on the strobe, but it was using a socked 64" elinchrom octa, I believe.

Also, you'll have to pop the flash independent of the shutter to freeze your subject mid jump.


6D Rokinon 14 f/2.8 l EF 35 ƒ1.4L l EF 135 ƒ2.0L l EF 70-200 ƒ2.8L IS II l YN460 l 580EX II l Flick'd (external link)

  
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cdnclicker
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Feb 09, 2012 11:12 |  #8

As I've already mentioned, I'm thinking of using a profoto 210 giant silver reflector as my key and a barebulb flash as rim. Of course, that may change once I get there and start testing.

Also, why would I need to pop the flash independent of the shutter?




  
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[Hyuni]
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Feb 09, 2012 11:21 |  #9

If you plan to do the method I used with the slow shutter speed and sync the flash to the shutter, you won't catch them mid jump. Either you'll be popping the flash when they start or if you use rear sync shutter, you'll catch them when it's over.

When I shot this, I clicked the shutter and when the dancer jumped, I popped the flash at the time I wanted to freeze her mid air.


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cdnclicker
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Feb 09, 2012 11:24 |  #10

Oh, but I'd planned on shooting at 1-160-1/200. No light thingys in hand involved ;)




  
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Curtis ­ N
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Feb 09, 2012 11:58 |  #11

cdnclicker wrote in post #13855294 (external link)
I understand that to freeze action without blur, it takes a flash duration as short as possible and this is inversely proportional to the flash output.

Not necessarily. That statement is correct for most entry-level studio strobes and older pack & head systems. The shortest flash duration is achieved at the highest power setting.

But with battery-powered flash units and many of the newer strobes (such as the Einstein unit from Paul Buff), flash duration varies directly with output, and reducing the power setting will improve your ability to freeze motion.

This pure conjecture, but I think the Opus units will work fine. I do recommend panning with your subject.


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[Hyuni]
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Feb 09, 2012 13:11 |  #12

oh, in that case, that'll be even easier! Remember you can sync faster than 1/200.
It'll show a black bar on the bottom, but you can easily crop that out.


6D Rokinon 14 f/2.8 l EF 35 ƒ1.4L l EF 135 ƒ2.0L l EF 70-200 ƒ2.8L IS II l YN460 l 580EX II l Flick'd (external link)

  
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Curtis ­ N
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Feb 09, 2012 15:22 |  #13

[Hyuni wrote:
='[Hyuni];13856532']oh​, in that case, that'll be even easier! Remember you can sync faster than 1/200.

Shutter speed is not the issue. Flash duration is the issue, potentially.


"If you're not having fun, your pictures will reflect that." - Joe McNally
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Flash Photography 101 | The EOS Flash Bible  (external link)| Techniques for Better On-Camera Flash (external link) | How to Use Flash Outdoors| Excel-based DOF Calculator (external link)

  
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Freezing dancers
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