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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 14 Feb 2012 (Tuesday) 18:17
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Filter for Tokina 11-16mm Ultrawide

 
Phyrephox
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Feb 14, 2012 18:17 |  #1

Hi all,

I just bought a Tokina 11-16 and looking to get a filter mostly for protection. I'm doing an equal amount of video and stills at the moment. I was about to pull the trigger on a B+W 77mm Clear UV Haze F-PRO MRC 010M, but was told that I'd get vignetting on the wide end, and that I should get a slim filter. From reading it seems the problem with some slim filters is that you can't fit the original lens cap on and/or attached the lens hood. I'd like a filter mostly for protection, but also any optical advantages to using a filter.

Can anyone suggest a filter that meets these requirements:

- Multi-coated (I hear it's worth it for wide angle lenses)
- Can use it with original lens cap
- Can use it with lens hood

If you own a Tokina 11-16 with a filter, what do you use?

Cheers!




  
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Jptenberg
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Location: Minneapolis, MN
     
Feb 14, 2012 18:23 |  #2

There are no advantages to using a UV filter. I have a 11-16 and use it filter free--with the exception of a ND or Polarizer--neither of which are slim profile. I recommend using your lens hood for protection over a filter--Unless you are shooting in a sandstorm or a blizzard or something your lens will provide plenty of protection. I have UV filters that see no use because IMO they are just another source for distortion or flare etc...

That being said...If you really want to get a filter, look at Hoya ProD1. photofilter.com has a good price on these, and I think they are as good quality as B+W


_______________
5D3 | 7D | 17-40L | 24-105L | 70-200L IS II | 100-400L | 24LII | TS-E 24LII | 100L | 135L | 15-85 | Zeiss 50 1.4 | Tokina 11-16 | 580EXII | 430 EXII | Gitzo 3541LS | RRS Leveling base | Arca-Swiss Z1 | RRS Lever Clamp | Gitzo 2542T | Acratech GP-s | RRS TFA-01 with BH-25LR | B+W MRC CP Filters | Hoya ND Filters | Clik-Elite packs | Crumpler bags

  
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msowsun
"approx 8mm"
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Feb 14, 2012 20:12 |  #3

The 11-16 does not need slim filters. Who ever told you that doesn't know what they are talking about.

EDIT: As for any optical advantage, forget it. There is no UV filter (or any other protection filter) that will give you an optical advantage. The 11-16 is prone to flare under harsh conditions, and that will become worse with any filter installed. (even an expensive Multi-Coated one)

ALWAYS use the hood on the 11-16 and only use a filter for protection from extreme conditions(blowing sand or debris) or for a specific effect. (Polarizer, Neutral Density, etc)


Mike Sowsun / SL1 / 80D / EF-S 24mm STM / EF-S 10-18mm STM / EF-S 18-55mm STM / EF-S 15-85mm USM / EF-S 55-250mm STM / 5D3 / Samyang 14mm 2.8 / EF 40mm 2.8 STM / EF 50mm 1.8 STM / EF 100mm 2.0 USM / EF 100mm 2.8 USM Macro / EF 24-105mm IS / EF 70-200mm 2.8L IS Mk II / EF 100-400 II / EF 1.4x II
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hollis_f
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Feb 15, 2012 04:22 |  #4

I hardly ever bother with the hood, it's just too thin to provide much protection. But I definitely don't stick a 'protective' filter on it. As Mike says, the 11-16 is already terrible for flare, why make it even worse by sticking a filter in front of it?


Frank Hollis - Retired mass spectroscopist
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Sirrith
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Feb 15, 2012 04:34 |  #5

No optical advantages to be had with UV filters. For protection I use the B+W you mentioned. They won't vignette.


-Tom
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Phyrephox
THREAD ­ STARTER
Hatchling
8 posts
Joined Nov 2009
     
Feb 15, 2012 11:26 |  #6

Thanks all for the insight. This is great stuff. I'm usually very careful with any gear I own, so am thinking hard about the no filter and using the lens hood route. The paranoid part of me says, just one scratch and I might regret it.

Say I were to get a filter, and since as mwsowsun mentioned that the 11-16 is prone to flare, I should only be considering a non-slim, multi-coated filter correct?




  
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msowsun
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Feb 15, 2012 11:42 |  #7

Yes, definitely get a Multi-Coated filter. But even expensive filters can add flare as you can see in these "Lenstip" tests:

http://www.lenstip.com …icle-UV_filters_test.html (external link)

Without filter ...............WITH B+W 72mm 010 UV-Haze http://www.lenstip.com …B+W_72mm_010_UV​-Haze.html (external link)

IMAGE: http://www.lenstip.com/upload2/2832_bez_filtra_seria4.jpg
IMAGE: http://www.lenstip.com/upload2/2852_b+w-nc-seria4.jpg


Without filter...............W​ITH Tiffen UV filter http://www.lenstip.com …_test_Tiffen_72​mm_UV.html (external link)
(DUPLICATE IMAGE)
IMAGE: http://www.lenstip.com/upload2/3101_tiffen-uv-seria4.jpg

There have been lots of other tests done, and lots of results to view:

http://forums.dpreview​.com …rum=1041&messag​e=34206309 (external link)

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/columns/​sm-feb-05.shtml (external link)

Ironically, the better your lens, the more desirable it is not to have a filter on it. Also, if you commonly shoot with a zoom with more than ten elements, a filter, even if it's multicoated, isn't doing the lens's inherent flare and veiling glare characteristics any favors. The more glass surfaces, the less the transmission, period.


Mike Sowsun / SL1 / 80D / EF-S 24mm STM / EF-S 10-18mm STM / EF-S 18-55mm STM / EF-S 15-85mm USM / EF-S 55-250mm STM / 5D3 / Samyang 14mm 2.8 / EF 40mm 2.8 STM / EF 50mm 1.8 STM / EF 100mm 2.0 USM / EF 100mm 2.8 USM Macro / EF 24-105mm IS / EF 70-200mm 2.8L IS Mk II / EF 100-400 II / EF 1.4x II
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hollis_f
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Feb 15, 2012 12:36 |  #8

Of course, the 11-16 is likely to give results similar to the B&W filter with the bare lens.


Frank Hollis - Retired mass spectroscopist
Give a man a fish and he'll eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he'll complain about the withdrawal of his free fish entitlement.
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Phyrephox
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Hatchling
8 posts
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Feb 15, 2012 12:40 |  #9

This is all making a lot more sense now. I thought filters cut down on things like flares, but it's actually the opposite, which is much more logical.

That site is amazing. I clicked on the multi-coated version of that B+W you linked, it seems an improvement over the examples you gave:

http://www.lenstip.com …2mm_010M_UV-Haze_MRC.html (external link)

If the lens hood fits on top of this (is that overkill?) then I'll probably look around for one and just use the lens hood solo in the mean time.

Thanks a ton.




  
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Old ­ Baldy
Senior Member
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Feb 15, 2012 12:48 as a reply to  @ Phyrephox's post |  #10

I fitter a Hoya DMC Pro1 MC filter to my 11-16 and hardly ever removed it. It did not vignette, and I noticed no additional flare issues at all.

Just don't use a CPL on any UWA at the real wide end....you'll likely get very uneven results - nothing to do with Tokina, but rather for any UWA lens when using the wide end.


OB
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bpark42
Senior Member
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Feb 15, 2012 13:08 |  #11

Old Baldy wrote in post #13902814 (external link)
Just don't use a CPL on any UWA at the real wide end....you'll likely get very uneven results - nothing to do with Tokina, but rather for any UWA lens when using the wide end.

People need to stop blindly repeating this generic advice. Yes, if a CPL is used in a situation where there is a lot of sky in the photo it is possible to get light/dark bands in the sky due to varying light polarization. However, CPL's are useful for more than just darkening/saturating the sky.

CPL's often work perfectly fine on ultrawides for things like cutting relfections and increasing saturation on foliage, water, etc. Even shots that include some sky can be done so long as one is mindful of the potential issue with varying polarization.




  
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Filter for Tokina 11-16mm Ultrawide
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