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FORUMS Post Processing, Marketing & Presenting Photos RAW, Post Processing & Printing 
Thread started 22 Mar 2012 (Thursday) 17:36
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gtowne84
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Mar 22, 2012 17:36 |  #1

Greetings all.
Ive been trying to mess around with Adobe Photo Element 10 editing coral shots from my aquarium. I dont have much luck. Is the Adobe Lightroom better? What seems to be the best and easiest program to use with RAW images? I was told to shoot all my shots with tripod, on ISO 100 and at f12-f30, and on AV mode and turn all water moving pumps off .. I have got the lense straight up on the glass but most my shots still seem to be blurry. Theres got to be an easier way then what im doing. Oh almost forgot im using the EOS Rebel T3i 18mp with the 60mm f/2.8 EF-S Macro....
i thought about posting the jpegs but I was told that editing on RAW would be best but I dont know where I could post the RAW image to be viewed online....

Any help would be much appreciated!
Thanks




  
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TTuna ­ Eye
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Mar 22, 2012 18:10 |  #2

I had PSE 9 and LR3. I eventually uninstalled PSE and now only use LR. At version 4 now. Have you tried Digital Photo Pro that came with your camera? It is a very powerful (and free) program. You can use that to tweak your shots and then convert them to JPEG. I have the 60mm lens as well and really love it. I shoot a fair amount underwater and it is great for that type of macro.


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gtowne84
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Mar 22, 2012 18:12 |  #3

Could you help me with showing me the way you edit a few of your shots under LR3?

I heard aftermarket editing programs were better then the program that came with it.
Maybe show me with LR4?




  
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gtowne84
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Mar 22, 2012 18:21 |  #4

Most my shots are really focused in areas and blurred in others. I need the entire shot to be focused but havent figured out how to do that just yet,




  
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Sorarse
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Mar 22, 2012 18:28 |  #5

If you can post up an example image, it would be easier to try and determine where you might be going wrong.


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gtowne84
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Mar 22, 2012 18:44 |  #6

Good idea, Will try that thanks




  
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tonylong
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Mar 22, 2012 18:53 |  #7

gtowne84 wrote in post #14134874 (external link)
Greetings all.
Ive been trying to mess around with Adobe Photo Element 10 editing coral shots from my aquarium. I dont have much luck. Is the Adobe Lightroom better? What seems to be the best and easiest program to use with RAW images? I was told to shoot all my shots with tripod, on ISO 100 and at f12-f30, and on AV mode and turn all water moving pumps off .. I have got the lense straight up on the glass but most my shots still seem to be blurry. Theres got to be an easier way then what im doing. Oh almost forgot im using the EOS Rebel T3i 18mp with the 60mm f/2.8 EF-S Macro....
i thought about posting the jpegs but I was told that editing on RAW would be best but I dont know where I could post the RAW image to be viewed online....

Any help would be much appreciated!

Thanks

gtowne84 wrote in post #14135132 (external link)
Most my shots are really focused in areas and blurred in others. I need the entire shot to be focused but havent figured out how to do that just yet,

As to getting more of your shots in focus, when you are shooting at close Macro distances this will be difficult at the very least. Close shooting is like that.


As to the advice to shoot at "f/12-f/30", well, it was either somewhat off in their advice or maybe you didn't clearly understand what they were talking about. Yes, using large f-numbers will make more things evenly focused, but with your camera going beyond f/11 will also make the in-focus areas softer to to the effects of "diffraction", and going to your narrowest aperture (biggest f-number) will make that softness quite noticeable. I'm not sure what the narrowest aperture for your 60mm lens is, either f/22 or f/32, but both of those are typically not the best choices.


But then, how can you improve things?


Well, for single Macro shots, setting your camera to f/11 and then making sure that the most important part of your scene is in focus is about as good as your going to get. Go ahead and try something like f/22 and see how you like the results, though.


But, for Macro shooting there is also the technique called "focus stacking". This is where you have the lens set to manually focus and you take a series of shots, "nudging" the focus along as you go, and then you combine them in software into a "stack" of layers that you can selectively bring out sharpness from each layer. This can be done in an app like Photoshop/Elements using layers and layer masks, or there are some apps that specialize in this although I don't recall the names. You can to a search here or 'Net-wide for "focus stack software" and come up with some leads.

As to the Canon Raw software, I'd definitely give it a go, at least while you are checking out other apps such as Lightroom


Tony
Two Canon cameras (5DC, 30D), three Canon lenses (24-105, 100-400, 100mm macro)
Tony Long Photos on PBase (external link)
Wildlife project pics here (external link), Biking Photog shoots here (external link), "Suburbia" project here (external link)! Mount St. Helens, Mount Hood pics here (external link)

  
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gtowne84
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Mar 22, 2012 18:57 |  #8

http://photobucket.com​/3-2012 (external link)

This is new album I created with the most recent photos Ive taken...

A lot are blurry. Want to have the photos with a black background as you can tell..
Very horrible to not know how to figure out how to make the picture perfect shot like ive seen on these forums!

Thanks for your help!




  
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gtowne84
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Mar 22, 2012 19:05 |  #9

http://i931.photobucke​t.com …0/partycitybenn​ett/nn.jpg (external link)

http://i931.photobucke​t.com …Vffrj3DBPJKcydh​og60_1.jpg (external link)

I dont see how these pictures got so well good with the owners of the pictures.. i wish I was able to make my pictures like these!




  
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328iGuy
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Mar 22, 2012 19:12 |  #10

First off your shutter speed will be way to slow at those fstop settings, secondly the photos you want yours to look like more than likely are using OCF (off camera flash).

Do you have off camera flash to shoot from above the tank?


EOS R5 | EOS R6 | EF 8-15L | RF 15-35L 2.8 | RF 24-70L 2.8 | RF 85L 1.2 | RF 70-200L 2.8 | RF 100-500L

  
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gtowne84
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Mar 22, 2012 19:15 |  #11

328iGuy wrote in post #14135439 (external link)
First off your shutter speed will be way to slow at those fstop settings, secondly the photos you want yours to look like more than likely are using OCF (off camera flash).

Do you have off camera flash to shoot from above the tank?

No I do not




  
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328iGuy
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Mar 22, 2012 19:16 |  #12

gtowne84 wrote in post #14135468 (external link)
No I do not

I would suggest doing so if you want to shoot like those you have posted.


EOS R5 | EOS R6 | EF 8-15L | RF 15-35L 2.8 | RF 24-70L 2.8 | RF 85L 1.2 | RF 70-200L 2.8 | RF 100-500L

  
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gtowne84
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Mar 22, 2012 19:21 |  #13

That would be only way to get pictures like posted? What do I need to be looking for as far as OCF?




  
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328iGuy
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Mar 22, 2012 19:24 |  #14

gtowne84 wrote in post #14135515 (external link)
That would be only way to get pictures like posted? What do I need to be looking for as far as OCF?

Yupper you need more light.

Something like this would be perfect:

https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1163964

With an OC-E3 cord to get the flash off the hotshoe or a wireless trigger would be even better.


EOS R5 | EOS R6 | EF 8-15L | RF 15-35L 2.8 | RF 24-70L 2.8 | RF 85L 1.2 | RF 70-200L 2.8 | RF 100-500L

  
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gtowne84
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Mar 22, 2012 19:28 |  #15

Ive read and read forum after forum and Ive always been told never to use flash when taking coral shots... So ive always had the flash off, and now you say I should get an OCF.. So confused but up to try just about anything at this point




  
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