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Thread started 25 Mar 2012 (Sunday) 21:23
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Hobbyist 5MD3/5DM2 Low Light Comparison

 
TheDeepThought42
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Mar 26, 2012 05:16 |  #16

arentol wrote in post #14154155 (external link)
No they are not. The center point and the two points above and below it are better than all the rest of the points. They are cross-type + diagonal + high precision sensors when a f//2.8 or faster lens is attached, and just cross-type with slower lenses (up to f/5.6). The next best points are the 16 immediately surrounding those 5 points, which are cross-type sensors whenever an f/5.6 or faster lens is attached. Then there are the 20 points making up the center two columns of the outer 40 points (10 center points of the 20 points on each side), which are cross-type sensors when an f/4 or faster lens is attached. Finally there are the remaining 20 points, outermost and 4th colum in on each side, which are not cross-type ever.

So actually the outer points are the worst, and if you have a slow lens the entire outer zones are not that great.

Learn more here:

http://www.learn.usa.c​anon.com …n_crosstype_art​icle.shtml (external link)

Technically yes, but I think he meant in practice...




  
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tzalman
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Mar 26, 2012 05:51 |  #17

The problem with comparing jpgs is that it's impossible to know how much the difference is because of lower sensor and system noise and how much it is because of better NR in the jpg processing.


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DarthVader
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Mar 26, 2012 07:00 |  #18

I'm familiar with the spec :). What I meant unlike its predecessor, the 5D III has usable outer points :).

http://blog.akimagery.​com …d-mark-iii-autofocus.html (external link)

arentol wrote in post #14154155 (external link)
No they are not. The center point and the two points above and below it are better than all the rest of the points. They are cross-type + diagonal + high precision sensors when a f//2.8 or faster lens is attached, and just cross-type with slower lenses (up to f/5.6). The next best points are the 16 immediately surrounding those 5 points, which are cross-type sensors whenever an f/5.6 or faster lens is attached. Then there are the 20 points making up the center two columns of the outer 40 points (10 center points of the 20 points on each side), which are cross-type sensors when an f/4 or faster lens is attached. Finally there are the remaining 20 points, outermost and 4th colum in on each side, which are not cross-type ever.

So actually the outer points are the worst, and if you have a slow lens the entire outer zones are not that great.

Learn more here:

http://www.learn.usa.c​anon.com …n_crosstype_art​icle.shtml (external link)


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Gregg.Siam
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Mar 26, 2012 07:13 as a reply to  @ DarthVader's post |  #19

Invader Zim hat ++ :cool:


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Tom ­ W
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Mar 26, 2012 14:33 |  #20

DarthVader wrote in post #14153573 (external link)
Are you getting one Tom?.

Revised answer - I ordered it today. I like it so much that I'm willing to take it with the 24-105 lens even though I already have a 24-105 lens! Looks like I'll be selling a lens soon. :-)


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CaptB412
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Mar 26, 2012 19:35 |  #21

Gregg.Siam wrote in post #14154649 (external link)
Invader Zim hat ++ :cool:

Here was the total outfit....yes, that is a GIR napsack

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JPL-03182012-2142 (external link) by CaptainB412 (external link), on Flickr

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jacobsen1
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Mar 26, 2012 19:52 as a reply to  @ CaptB412's post |  #22

LowriderS10 wrote in post #14153169 (external link)
As for low light...I think a better lens would go a long way in improving that performance.

The $1700 difference would get you some top-notch glass to replace the Nifty...I was out shooting with the 100 f2 (a relatively budget lens) on my 5Dc this weekend, and it blew me away...in an environment where ISO 3200 (highest on a 5Dc), f2 and 1/40 sec still yielded slightly underexposed shots, it was still focusing well enough to grab some candid keepers (though sometimes it hunted a bit).

see, here's the thing. I had a 5Dc. When I had it I got a 24L. I shot at 1600, 1/60th and 1.4 all the time with it. 3200 was too noisy. I made do with the center AF point only. Then the 5Dii came out 3 years later. I upgraded immediately and started using 3200, 1.4 and 1/125th. Still center point only. Now the 5Diii is here. I've upgraded again, and I'm now using auto ISO set to a 12800 max, I can finally stop down to f/2 so AF doesn't need to be quite as sensitive, and still 1/125th. I can now also use any damn AF point on the thing. It still misses shots every now and again, but much less so than the 5D2 or 5Dc.

So a $1700 difference? How many shots do you want to have to take to get one good one? What if you're being PAID to take said shots in low light? Can you afford to MISS a crucial moment? That's the difference for me. The IQ so far has been pretty much a lateral move in DR and banding etc, but the ISOs are better and the focus/speed are MUCH better. So yeah, for those of us that pay bills using cameras in low light..... This is SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper than a 1 series body and either beats or matches all their IQ in ISOs and even AF. The 1Dx isn't out yet, it'll top the 5Diii, but it'll cost twice as much....


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Buylongterm
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Mar 26, 2012 20:24 |  #23

I'd love to see some comparison shots against the 7D. After owning the 7D for a year, and the 5D III a matter of days, I am blown away with the difference in ISO. The 7D is not even in the same leaque. I was never comfortable shooting higher than 1600. Now I feel that way at 25600 ISO on the 5D III.

Thanks to the original poster for taking the time to do this test.


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LowriderS10
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Mar 26, 2012 21:18 |  #24

You obviously missed the post where I said it's not worth the money FOR ME.

If it's worth it for you...awesome. I no longer shoot for money...if i miss a shot, no big deal.

jacobsen1 wrote in post #14158808 (external link)
see, here's the thing. I had a 5Dc. When I had it I got a 24L. I shot at 1600, 1/60th and 1.4 all the time with it. 3200 was too noisy. I made do with the center AF point only. Then the 5Dii came out 3 years later. I upgraded immediately and started using 3200, 1.4 and 1/125th. Still center point only. Now the 5Diii is here. I've upgraded again, and I'm now using auto ISO set to a 12800 max, I can finally stop down to f/2 so AF doesn't need to be quite as sensitive, and still 1/125th. I can now also use any damn AF point on the thing. It still misses shots every now and again, but much less so than the 5D2 or 5Dc.

So a $1700 difference? How many shots do you want to have to take to get one good one? What if you're being PAID to take said shots in low light? Can you afford to MISS a crucial moment? That's the difference for me. The IQ so far has been pretty much a lateral move in DR and banding etc, but the ISOs are better and the focus/speed are MUCH better. So yeah, for those of us that pay bills using cameras in low light..... This is SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper than a 1 series body and either beats or matches all their IQ in ISOs and even AF. The 1Dx isn't out yet, it'll top the 5Diii, but it'll cost twice as much....


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CaptB412
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Mar 26, 2012 21:37 |  #25

jacobsen1 wrote in post #14158808 (external link)
So a $1700 difference? How many shots do you want to have to take to get one good one? What if you're being PAID to take said shots in low light? Can you afford to MISS a crucial moment? That's the difference for me. The IQ so far has been pretty much a lateral move in DR and banding etc, but the ISOs are better and the focus/speed are MUCH better. So yeah, for those of us that pay bills using cameras in low light..... This is SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper than a 1 series body and either beats or matches all their IQ in ISOs and even AF. The 1Dx isn't out yet, it'll top the 5Diii, but it'll cost twice as much....

As hobbyists or professionals we each have reasons why or why not to pay the $1,700 difference. My daughter plays soccer at night on fields where the lighting is less than acceptable. After seeing night lacrosse photos posted in other threads, I pulled the trigger. The test shots for me (as primitive as they were) confirmed for me that I had made the right choice. The quick and accurate low light focus at high ISO is worth the extra $1,700 cost if it means that I can shoot pics of my daughter playing night games and get better results. The ability to capture more of those memories is priceless - to me.

I am interested if others have had similar experience with low light and high iso.


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DarthVader
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Mar 26, 2012 21:40 |  #26

Very wise!.

CaptB412 wrote in post #14159611 (external link)
As hobbyists or professionals we each have reasons why or why not to pay the $1,700 difference. My daughter plays soccer at night on fields where the lighting is less than acceptable. After seeing night lacrosse photos posted in other threads, I pulled the trigger. The test shots for me (as primitive as they were) confirmed for me that I had made the right choice. The quick and accurate low light focus at high ISO is worth the extra $1,700 cost if it means that I can shoot pics of my daughter playing night games and get better results. The ability to capture more of those memories is priceless - to me.

I am interested if others have had similar experience with low light and high iso.


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Logicus
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Mar 26, 2012 21:44 as a reply to  @ post 14154178 |  #27

completely why I want one! a little oof or not, the dark areas have much less noise.


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mike ­ cabilangan
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Mar 26, 2012 22:09 |  #28

Buylongterm wrote in post #14158997 (external link)
I'd love to see some comparison shots against the 7D. After owning the 7D for a year, and the 5D III a matter of days, I am blown away with the difference in ISO. The 7D is not even in the same leaque. I was never comfortable shooting higher than 1600. Now I feel that way at 25600 ISO on the 5D III.

Thanks to the original poster for taking the time to do this test.

i've always considered the 7D to be one stop worse than the 5D2

5D2 vs 5D3
i've been hearing between 1/3 stop improvement to 2 stops better, i wonder which really.

... now if the 5D3 can do at least one stop better than the 5D2 ... i'm in!

CaptB412 wrote in post #14152994 (external link)
X

thanks for sharing OP, funny about the OOF thing, but very understandable coming from a fellow 5D2 user.


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jacobsen1
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Mar 26, 2012 23:18 |  #29

mike cabilangan wrote in post #14159820 (external link)
5D2 vs 5D3
i've been hearing between 1/3 stop improvement to 2 stops better, i wonder which really.

... now if the 5D3 can do at least one stop better than the 5D2 ... i'm in!

JPEGs it's easily 2 stops. RAW it's harder to tell because the software isn't there to fully support it yet. Straight up noise I doubt RAW is 2 stops better, but it won't band for 2 more stops at least, which is a big difference.


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kcbrown
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Mar 27, 2012 03:44 |  #30

5D3 is definitely an improvement, but what's with the deep shadow posterization? Is that a JPEG artifact or something else?

Regardless, it beats the 5D2 by quite a lot. More importantly, though, it sounds like it can focus in light that the sensor can handle, so it sounds like it's very well balanced.

I suspect Canon has a winner on their hands, the full frame equivalent of a 7D (at long last): not necessarily the absolute best at any given thing when compared with the competition, but extremely competent and an excellent all-rounder.

It'll be interesting to see if the 7D's successor brings it to within around a stop of the 5D3 in terms of high ISO noise performance without screwing up anything that the 7D does well at.


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Hobbyist 5MD3/5DM2 Low Light Comparison
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