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Thread started 28 Nov 2011 (Monday) 19:20
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Canon EF 35mm f/1.4 L USM, Continued

 
yamatama
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Apr 02, 2012 08:12 |  #1726

outstanding!


Nikon D750, 35 1.4G, 85 1.8G, 24-70 2.8G, 70-200 2.8G
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tats
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Apr 02, 2012 08:33 |  #1727

Just traded my 16-35 for one of these badboys, got to take it out this weekend but haven't had a chance to go through them yet but I forgot how great something faster than 2.8 can be.

Obviously I will experiment on my own, but where do you think this lens really shines, aperture wise? I was doing lots of playing around at 1.4 but just wondered if like some others people think there is an improvement in either sharpness, contrast, etc when stopped down a bit to a certain aperture?

I tried to make a point at experimenting from 1.4 to around 2.8 just to see but wonder if anyone has any opinions.


Rob
Canon 5DMkII -- Zeiss 21 2.8 -- 35L -- 50 1.8 -- 70-200 2.8L IS II FOR SALE -- 2X III Extender SOLD
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Seventeen ­ Nineteen
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Apr 02, 2012 08:35 |  #1728

Where does it shine? 1.4

Any lens is a little sharper stopped down, but that magical quality that the 35L has - the ability to completely isolate a subject from the background (the almost 3D effect) happens at like 1.4-1.8. The portrait I took up there ^ was at 1.8. And it's crazy sharp. The 100% is just amazing for something almost wide open.

Obviously - if you stop it down to like f/4 to f/8 its going to be crazy sharp - but so is just about any lens. To me, if you're going to purchase and use a crazy fast prime - use it at or near wide open.

tats wrote in post #14195616 (external link)
Just traded my 16-35 for one of these badboys, got to take it out this weekend but haven't had a chance to go through them yet but I forgot how great something faster than 2.8 can be.

Obviously I will experiment on my own, but where do you think this lens really shines, aperture wise? I was doing lots of playing around at 1.4 but just wondered if like some others people think there is an improvement in either sharpness, contrast, etc when stopped down a bit to a certain aperture?

I tried to make a point at experimenting from 1.4 to around 2.8 just to see but wonder if anyone has any opinions.


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tats
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Apr 02, 2012 08:40 |  #1729

Seventeen Nineteen wrote in post #14195627 (external link)
Where does it shine? 1.4

Any lens is a little sharper stopped down, but that magical quality that the 35L has - the ability to completely isolate a subject from the background (the almost 3D effect) happens at like 1.4-1.8. The portrait I took up there ^ was at 1.8. And it's crazy sharp. The 100% is just amazing for something almost wide open.

Obviously - if you stop it down to like f/4 to f/8 its going to be crazy sharp - but so is just about any lens. To me, if you're going to purchase and use a crazy fast prime - use it at or near wide open.

Totally understand, I just didn't know if it was one of those lenses that is great at 1.4 but is worth stopping down to 1.8 or 2...

Thanks though, can't wait to throw some pics up here, there are some great shots in this thread.


Rob
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Seventeen ­ Nineteen
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Apr 02, 2012 08:43 |  #1730

tats wrote in post #14195645 (external link)
Totally understand, I just didn't know if it was one of those lenses that is great at 1.4 but is worth stopping down to 1.8 or 2...

Thanks though, can't wait to throw some pics up here, there are some great shots in this thread.

Yeah - I've heard the 24L is sharper wide open, but I shoot the 35L wide open about 95% of the time. There was a bit of a learning curve initially. I thought that maybe it was front or back focusing. I resisted playing with it on my 5Dm2 - and I'm glad I did. It was me. Now I nail focus about 98% of the time. And it is definitely sharp enough for me. 1.8 is crazy sharp. But for environmental stuff - like half or full body - I'll shoot wide open all day with great results.


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yamatama
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Apr 02, 2012 08:59 |  #1731

Seventeen Nineteen wrote in post #14195664 (external link)
Yeah - I've heard the 24L is sharper wide open, but I shoot the 35L wide open about 95% of the time. There was a bit of a learning curve initially. I thought that maybe it was front or back focusing. I resisted playing with it on my 5Dm2 - and I'm glad I did. It was me. Now I nail focus about 98% of the time. And it is definitely sharp enough for me. 1.8 is crazy sharp. But for environmental stuff - like half or full body - I'll shoot wide open all day with great results.

What do you do to nail it at 1.4?? im having a little hard time wide open


Nikon D750, 35 1.4G, 85 1.8G, 24-70 2.8G, 70-200 2.8G
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Seventeen ­ Nineteen
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Apr 02, 2012 09:48 |  #1732

yamatama wrote in post #14195716 (external link)
What do you do to nail it at 1.4?? im having a little hard time wide open

I wish I could explain...I'm using focus and recompose and the center focus point. I make sure to focus on something that I know is going to be on the same focal plane as something really important - like my subjects eyes - it depends your distance from the subject. And then I make sure to pick something with horizontal and vertical (if possible) contrast-y lines - like an eyebrow, or something on a shirt, or an eye. I watch my shutter speed and...well, that's about it. I just found that it took some practice. I don't want to say that the 35L is tricky, but it required a bit more thinking. Now its second nature.


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DigiNon
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Apr 02, 2012 10:11 |  #1733

TilenLicen wrote in post #14195295 (external link)
some other pics on 1st & 2nd page http://forum.bmwslo.co​m/showthread.php?t=927​99 (external link)

Very very nice. I absolutely love this lens for cars.


l Mario l AE-1P l EOS 5 l 5Dc l 5DII l 17-40L l 35L l 50 1.4 l 100L l 70-200L II l

  
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yamatama
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Apr 02, 2012 10:28 |  #1734

Seventeen Nineteen wrote in post #14195964 (external link)
I wish I could explain...I'm using focus and recompose and the center focus point. I make sure to focus on something that I know is going to be on the same focal plane as something really important - like my subjects eyes - it depends your distance from the subject. And then I make sure to pick something with horizontal and vertical (if possible) contrast-y lines - like an eyebrow, or something on a shirt, or an eye. I watch my shutter speed and...well, that's about it. I just found that it took some practice. I don't want to say that the 35L is tricky, but it required a bit more thinking. Now its second nature.

I think i understand.. and surprisingly already have much better results.. not there yet but getting there

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TilenLicen
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Apr 02, 2012 10:36 |  #1735

DigiNon wrote in post #14196095 (external link)
Very very nice. I absolutely love this lens for cars.

thank you ;)


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johan75
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Apr 02, 2012 10:41 |  #1736

Just seen your last pics Seventeen Nineteen... I NEED OXYGEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They are EPIC!!!

Seventeen Nineteen wrote in post #14195627 (external link)
Where does it shine? 1.4

Any lens is a little sharper stopped down, but that magical quality that the 35L has - the ability to completely isolate a subject from the background (the almost 3D effect) happens at like 1.4-1.8. The portrait I took up there ^ was at 1.8. And it's crazy sharp. The 100% is just amazing for something almost wide open.

Obviously - if you stop it down to like f/4 to f/8 its going to be crazy sharp - but so is just about any lens. To me, if you're going to purchase and use a crazy fast prime - use it at or near wide open.

And which lens is more sharper for you between the 135L and the 35L? Not only when it's wild open, but in generally... Other poeple can aswer too lol. Sorry for my bad english guys!




  
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xrayhead
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Apr 02, 2012 10:41 as a reply to  @ TilenLicen's post |  #1737

Back from my business trip and had to get some therapy!!

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Seventeen ­ Nineteen
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Apr 02, 2012 10:56 |  #1738

Haha thank you...sharper? The 135L is just crazy sharp. That's my answer.

johan75 wrote in post #14196254 (external link)
Just seen your last pics Seventeen Nineteen... I NEED OXYGEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They are EPIC!!!

And which lens is more sharper for you between the 135L and the 35L? Not only when it's wild open, but in generally... Other poeple can aswer too lol. Sorry for my bad english guys!


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Seventeen ­ Nineteen
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Apr 02, 2012 10:59 |  #1739

Here's another one that I just finished editing. This is one of the few times lately I've shot the 5Dm2 at high ISO. It did great. I didn't have time to set up any lighting, so we just went for it.

IMAGE: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7176/7039042365_eb9f05e360_b.jpg
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Teesha (external link) by Michael Hulcher (external link), on Flickr

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johan75
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Apr 02, 2012 12:37 |  #1740

Seventeen Nineteen wrote in post #14196353 (external link)
Haha thank you...sharper? The 135L is just crazy sharp. That's my answer.

A lot of people also told me that, but I don't know... I always found the 35L better and more sharper than the 135L. What is the reasons who make you use the 35L and not the 135L? The last one in black&white is flawless!!! You are my king!!!




  
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Canon EF 35mm f/1.4 L USM, Continued
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