Approve the Cookies
This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and our Privacy Policy.
OK
Index  •   • New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear  •   • Reviews
Guest
New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear  •   • Reviews
Register to forums    Log in

 
FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 18 Apr 2012 (Wednesday) 06:41
Search threadPrev/next
sponsored links
(this ad will go away when you log in as a registered member)

Mountain Biking Lens (Down-hilling)

 
Hornet-Wing
Hatchling
4 posts
Joined Apr 2012
     
Apr 18, 2012 06:41 |  #1

Hi all! I recently acquired my first DSLR, the Canon 550D (T2i) with the kit lens. I am very new to this kind of photography and eager to learn. I have read up on my camera, the creative modes and the different factors I can control (such as aperture, shutter speed, ISO) As a keen mountain biker, I would like to take photos of my friends while out. Otherwise, I have not yet realised which kind of photography I would like to focus on.

I would like to buy a 2nd lens, and I have come up with 3 possibilities.
- Canon 35mm F2
- Canon 28mm F1.8
- Sigma F1.4
The main reason for this choice is because I have read prime lenses produce much better photos than most cheaper (in my budget) zooms. They are all around the 30mm range because on a cropped sensor that will give me ~50mm which I have read is about the human eye's FOV and should be enough room to fit a mountain biker. The larger aperture is because I would like to keep shutter speed quite high and there are usually some low light level scenes (such as in forests). Also with the large aperture Ill be able to the a small DOF and nice out of focus areas. These lenses should also allow me to do landscape and portrait photography.

My question to you guys is, am I on the right track here or barking totally up the wrong tree. In the end I would like a lens I can use for mountain biking and grow my skills with.


Thanks for reading :)




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
sponsored links
(this ad will go away when you log in as a registered member)
kf095
Cream of the Crop
Avatar
6,509 posts
Gallery: 12 photos
Likes: 278
Joined Dec 2009
Location: Canada, Ontario, Milton
     
Apr 18, 2012 07:39 |  #2

http://gopro.com …hd-hero2-outdoor-edition/ (external link) it has prime wide lens on it.

Get flash, if you haven't it already, learn how to use M, Av and TV modes and start to use Rebel properly. 18-55 will serve you well then.

IMAGE: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kqkmzuDCkR0/TfznbfkviJI/AAAAAAAAU1I/5O4Q5F_-CMI/s700/_MG_5623.jpg

500D
ISO: 200
Exposure: 1/15 sec
Aperture: 8.0
Focal Length: 20mm
Flash Used: Yes

Old Site (external link). M-E and ME blog (external link). Film Flickr (external link). my DigitaL and AnaLog Gear.

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
brickboiler
Hatchling
9 posts
Gallery: 1 photo
Likes: 3
Joined Mar 2012
Location: New Hampshire
     
Apr 18, 2012 08:33 |  #3

Between the three lenses you are considering the sigma and the canon 28 have faster focus motors, which may be helpful if you want to capture action shots. They are also built a little bit tougher than the canon 35 f/2.


5D IV | 1V | 16-35L III | 35L II | 24-70L II | 85L IS | 100L IS | 70-200L f4L IS II flickr (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
FEChariot
Goldmember
Avatar
4,423 posts
Gallery: 13 photos
Likes: 345
Joined Sep 2011
     
Apr 18, 2012 10:21 |  #4

brickboiler wrote in post #14285958 (external link)
Between the three lenses you are considering the sigma and the canon 28 have faster focus motors, which may be helpful if you want to capture action shots.

I agree. I would stick with the USM and HSM options and I would lean towards USM one becuase my Canon USM lenses in general update focus distance at a higher frequency than my Sigma lenses in AI Servo. My 17-50 is better than my 30 here though.

I would also look into the standard zooms like the 17-40, 15-85, and 17-55. Even the 24-105 and 24-70 would be good. Another spin is to get an UWA like the 10-22 and get close to give a cool distortion perpective.


Canon 7D/350D, Σ17-50/2.8 OS, 18-55IS, 24-105/4 L IS, Σ30/1.4 EX, 50/1.8, C50/1.4, 55-250IS, 60/2.8, 70-200/4 L IS, 85/1.8, 100/2.8 IS L, 135/2 L 580EX II, 430EX II * 2, 270EX II.

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
amfoto1
Cream of the Crop
10,251 posts
Likes: 84
Joined Aug 2007
Location: San Jose, California
     
Apr 18, 2012 10:28 |  #5

With 28mm or 30mm lenses you will need to be relatively close to "fill the frame" with a bike and rider.

50mm is a "short telephoto" on a crop camera such as yours. It is not equivalent to the human eye angle of view on your camera. (It is on film/full frame cameras.) On your camera, 30mm would be more equivalent to your eye's AOV.

Even 50mm will be a pretty short focal length to use for cycling.

You don't need terribly high shutter speeds. Unless shooting in low light/indoors, you really don't need f1.4 lenses.

In fact, it can sometimes be better to use slower speeds to leave some motion blur in the image... ranging from some motion blur from faster moving part of the subject, such as the wheels... to really motion-blurring down an unattractive background. For example, this was done with 1/50 shutter speed...

IMAGE: http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2432/5755855577_ba00579382_z.jpg
TR4 Autocross 2009 Triumphest, San Luis Obispo, Calif.
EF 70-200/2.8 IS lens at f16 and 200mm focal length. EOS 50D camera at ISO 100, 1/50 shutter speed. Handheld, available light.


As opposed to more fully freezing all movement with 1/800...

IMAGE: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5101/5755853559_444297e91b_z.jpg
TR4 Autocross 2009 Triumphest, San Luis Obispo, Calif.
EF 300mm f4 IS lens at f5.6. EOS 50D camera at ISO 200, 1/800 shutter speed. Handheld, available light.


When I'm photographing action such as this, a lot of the time I use two cameras: one set up with a faster shutter to freeze the action, the other set up with a slow speed to allow for some motion blur. It's harder and takes some practice to get good usable shots with motion blur, I always end up trashing more of the shots. Simply freezing all movement is pretty easy.

Since you only have a single zoom now (I'm assuming it's the 18-55 IS kit lens), I'd really recommend a zoom instead of a prime, so that you have more flexibility. My single most used lens for sports/action is 70-200/2.8 IS... but that's a pretty big, heavy, expensive lens.

If you want an inexpensive, fast focusing zoom lens that's not too big, has a nice range of focal lengths for the purpose... I'd suggest check here on POTN in the classified listings or on your local Craigslist for a Canon 28-135 IS. So many of these have been sold in kit with various cameras, there are lots of them on the used market and they are relatively affordable... often under $250 (they sell for close to $500 new, by the time you get the separately sold lens hood). They are USM, with IS, plus close focusing.... not your typical "kit" lens by any means. Much better made. The aperture is f3.5 to f5.6, but that won't be a problem shooting in normal daylight. Bump up your ISO, if need be.

When I have a hike or a bike ride with a camera, I'll substitute a 28-135 IS for both my 24-70/2.8 and 70-200/2.8 IS. Saves a lot of weight and space! In any sort of reasonably good light, the 28-135 is perfectly capable of stopping action...

IMAGE: http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6179/6235799769_438529125d_z.jpg
Shortcut over 1st obstacle ACTHA Ride for the Mustangs 2011 - Hossmoor Ranch, Brione, Calif.
EF 28-135mm IS lens at f7.1 and 30mm focal length. EOS 7D camera at ISO 400, 1/1250 shutter speed. Handheld, ambient light.

Alan Myers (external link) "Walk softly and carry a big lens."
5DII, 7DII(x2), 7D(x2) & other cameras. 10-22mm, Tokina 12-24/4, 20/2.8, TS 24/3.5L, 24-70/2.8L, 28/1.8, 28-135 IS (x2), TS 45/2.8, 50/1.4, Tamron 60/2.0, 70-200/4L IS, 70-200/2.8 IS, 85/1.8, Tamron 90/2.5 Macro, 100/2.8 USM, 100-400L II, 135/2L, 180/3.5L, 300/4L IS (x2), 300/2.8L IS, 500/4L IS, EF 1.4X II, EF 2X II. Flashes, studio strobes & various access. - FLICKR (external link) - ZENFOLIO (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
tkbslc
Cream of the Crop
24,567 posts
Likes: 18
Joined Nov 2008
Location: Utah, USA
     
Apr 18, 2012 10:32 |  #6

A lot of action sports photography (like snowboarding, biking, skateboard) is done with wide angles and you have to get really close. This puts the perspective so that the viewer is in the action and you can show the rider in the surroundings. I'd actually say go wide if you have access and permission to shoot on the course.


Taylor
Galleries: Flickr (external link)
60D | ELPH 330 | iPhone 5s

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Foggiest
Senior Member
584 posts
Likes: 1
Joined Mar 2012
     
Apr 18, 2012 11:55 |  #7

You need to post a couple of things before lenses can be recommended .
Is this for organised events ? If so , then you may need more reach as you will likely be fenced off from the course and fighting for the best spots .
If it is for friends hitting jumps etc . Then you can use a shorter FL and get in and under the rider for the foreshortened perspective .

IME , trying to focus on a rider is not really possible , they are in and out of shot in wayyy less than a second .
What I did was to prefocus on a specific part of the course (a jump) , stop down a little for DOF and hope for the best .
Riders do tend to take the same line , for time/better control . Some will go off line but they may just be the tank slappers and spills , and that's a bit gruesome IMHO .

Another consideration is will the part of the course be in the open or under cover of trees etc .

I had a little go at this myself and I the part I had chosen was under cover and I found myself fighting to keep the shutter speed high enough , DOF great enough and minimise noise .
I didn't do so good imho , my only excuse was the 400d body doesn't like the higher ISO and I was rather a noob at the time .

I won't embed as I am unsure about forum rules for image size :
http://s851.photobucke​t.com …iew¤t=Bik​eJump2.jpg (external link)




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Hornet-Wing
THREAD ­ STARTER
Hatchling
4 posts
Joined Apr 2012
     
Apr 19, 2012 07:11 as a reply to  @ Foggiest's post |  #8

Thank you all for you responses! I see there is a lot to taken in and weigh up, as I can probably only fund one lens at this point. However, the resale value seems to be good on lenses so it shouldn't be too hard to change.

@ kf095
A flash gun is a pretty good idea. I see most of the photographers at races and events use flash. I had a quick look on the internet and came up with the 430 EX II which should do it.

@ brickboiler
I was already leaning towards the Sigma lens, but the Canon 28mm would be good if I could find it cheap.

@ FEChariot
The reason I went for prime lenses is because I have read that the quality is a lot better than similarly priced zoom lenses. But If I could get a compromise I'd be happy. Another reason I went for the primes is because I can get very close to the action with mountain biking. I can stand right next to the track/jump/berm and so on. So I wouldn't think I’d require a larger focal length.

@ amfoto1
I think I worded that wrong. I don't think filling the frame with just the rider is the best shot usually anyway. I’ll need the ground somewhere in the photo as well to show height and so on. When I set my kit lens to 50mm it feels like the focal length is too long and I won't fit everything in the frame, which is why I opted for the wider angle lenses. The reason for the large aperture is because generally the DH tracks are in the forest and Wales is not exactly well known for its sunny weather. :D I see your point with the slower shutter speed and the motion it conveys. I’ll be definitely giving that a shot. I’ll have a look for a 2nd hand 28-135 around listings sites in the UK, could be a worthwhile purchase. However, I am not sure if F3.5 is enough. I may have to invest in a flash. I think what it comes down it is my lack of knowledge of when/how to use aperture and shutter speed. I know what they both do and how they're related, just the magnitude of change between stops in not very clear to me i.e. how much the depth of field will change from F1.4 to F2 or which aperture to use on a sunny day in the middle of the forest for mountain biking. I assumed that would come with experience and experimenting. For now, what I want is a lens that will have the ability to take sport photos in forest scenes.

@ tkbslc
That is correct. I can stand pretty much next to the rider. Also Foggiest mentions we all take the same lines down the track (unless things are going wrong).

@ Foggiest
I am doing photography as a hobby at the moment and something I’ve always liked. I do not plan to shoot any events (yet). This was just to take photos of what friends and I do for fun! But rather than getting old point and shoot photos, I’d like to get some nice "keeper" photos. :)

Pretty nice photo, I've tried to do something similar and ended up with blurs. It is not the easiest environment to shoot in. That is why I thought I would need a faster lens such as these primes.




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
TooManyShots
Cream of the Crop
10,203 posts
Likes: 525
Joined Jan 2008
Location: NYC
     
Apr 19, 2012 14:09 |  #9
bannedPermanent ban

I shoot cycling races. Look at my link. :) Actually, go for the 70-200 focal length. Any lens wider than that, you have to frame the shot very close, about 5ft away from you. This means that your Rebel body may not be fast enough to get an accurate focus of the rider when they are that close to you. Yes, flash sport photography is the way to go most of the times. Especially for events like cycling since the riders tend to look and face down. The face is usually not well illuminated or exposed. The problem with flash sport photography is that your flash can't cycle fast enough to keep up with the burst speed of the camera. A lot of photogs use an external "high voltage" battery pack connected to a 580ex or 580ex II. If you must get a flash, get either the 580ex or 580ex II. It cycles a bit faster and you can use external power source to power it.

If you must go wide, get the 17-40L or the 17-55 f2.8 IS.


One Imaging Photography (external link) and my Flickr (external link)
Facebook (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Foggiest
Senior Member
584 posts
Likes: 1
Joined Mar 2012
     
Apr 19, 2012 14:16 |  #10

Downhill MTB is quite a bit different to road race (or velo) IMHO .
Riding through woods on twisty singletrack means the riders just fire out of nowhere and are gone as quick (it is in my area , and when I was freeriding (too old and my knees are shot now))
Might get away with AF , but I doubt it .
Hopefully Hornet can keep us informed how his shoots are going and post some pics too :)




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
maverick14
Member
79 posts
Likes: 19
Joined Aug 2010
Location: CHCH, New Zealand
     
Apr 19, 2012 14:19 |  #11

I'm a fellow down hiller and I cant honestly say get the cheapest lens possible... I'd be heading in the direction of the 50mm F1.8. You may have to step back a few steps to get the framing you want.

If you are carrying the camera and lens with you when coming down the trail you dont want to have $500+ lens sitting in your bag just waiting to be a soft cushion for when you fail / bail off.

I only take my DSLR when I know there is a section of track I can walk to and shoot from there. If I am carrying the camera in my bag on my bike I usually just take my wife's P&S.

Slightly off topic, what bike are you riding?




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
TooManyShots
Cream of the Crop
10,203 posts
Likes: 525
Joined Jan 2008
Location: NYC
     
Apr 19, 2012 14:24 |  #12
bannedPermanent ban

maverick14 wrote in post #14293701 (external link)
I'm a fellow down hiller and I cant honestly say get the cheapest lens possible... I'd be heading in the direction of the 50mm F1.8. You may have to step back a few steps to get the framing you want.

If you are carrying the camera and lens with you when coming down the trail you dont want to have $500+ lens sitting in your bag just waiting to be a soft cushion for when you fail / bail off.

I only take my DSLR when I know there is a section of track I can walk to and shoot from there. If I am carrying the camera in my bag on my bike I usually just take my wife's P&S.

Slightly off topic, what bike are you riding?

I think he wants to photograph other downhill riders. Not that he needs a lens to carry with him while riding his bike.


One Imaging Photography (external link) and my Flickr (external link)
Facebook (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Foggiest
Senior Member
584 posts
Likes: 1
Joined Mar 2012
     
Apr 19, 2012 14:44 |  #13

maverick14 wrote in post #14293701 (external link)
Slightly off topic, what bike are you riding?

My last bike was a Kona Stinky , with green Hope hubs :)




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Hornet-Wing
THREAD ­ STARTER
Hatchling
4 posts
Joined Apr 2012
     
Apr 19, 2012 16:01 as a reply to  @ Foggiest's post |  #14

@ TooManyShots
80% of the time I can be 5 ft. away just because of the Downhill track is laid out i.e. the usually narrow marked out track is also the "fence" for the spectators and I can pretty much almost touch the rider. Also when I’m at the dirt jumps with friends I can stand anywhere :) With flash, I assumed the 430EX II would do the job, but I’ll look into the 580EX II for the cycle speed.

@Foggiest
Yeah, DH is quite a bit different to Roadies. But, most of the time shots will be "set-up" i think. I’ll know where people will be coming from and roughly where I expect them to be and when. I will indeed keep you all informed. Now I'm just waiting for weather to clear up so I can go out and do some riding/shooting.

@Maverick14
Yeah, what I usually do is leave my bag with drink & etc. somewhere at the top of the track and then section the track and go back for the Cam if I find a good spot to take some shots. I have a cheap 1080P camcorder for just going riding to a new place.

My current DH bike is the Giant Glory 2009 Frame. Got it second hand recently and love the feel of it.

Here are some camcorder photos of my steed. :)

IMAGE: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7046/6948382384_dc5527d9c8_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/79320550@N08/6​948382384/  (external link)
A shot of my bike and a friend's

IMAGE: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7223/6948367190_4b8d3f8b0e_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/79320550@N08/6​948367190/  (external link)
Had a bit of time to mess around a bit.

IMAGE: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7074/7094442373_d9af3f0fbf_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/79320550@N08/7​094442373/  (external link)
And a bit more :)

Pics taken with Toshiba P10.



  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Foggiest
Senior Member
584 posts
Likes: 1
Joined Mar 2012
     
Apr 19, 2012 16:59 |  #15

Hehe , Thomson seat post *doffs cap*.




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
sponsored links
(this ad will go away when you log in as a registered member)

4,065 views & 0 likes for this thread
Mountain Biking Lens (Down-hilling)
FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
AAA
x 1600
y 1600

Jump to forum...   •  Rules   •  Index   •  New posts   •  RTAT   •  'Best of'   •  Gallery   •  Gear   •  Reviews   •  Member list   •  Polls   •  Image rules   •  Search   •  Password reset

Not a member yet?
Register to forums
Registered members may log in to forums and access all the features: full search, image upload, follow forums, own gear list and ratings, likes, more forums, private messaging, thread follow, notifications, own gallery, all settings, view hosted photos, own reviews, see more and do more... and all is free. Don't be a stranger - register now and start posting!


COOKIES DISCLAIMER: This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and to our privacy policy.
Privacy policy and cookie usage info.


POWERED BY AMASS forum software 2.1forum software
version 2.1 /
code and design
by Pekka Saarinen ©
for photography-on-the.net

Latest registered member is Page26
715 guests, 345 members online
Simultaneous users record so far is 15144, that happened on Nov 22, 2018

Photography-on-the.net Digital Photography Forums is the website for photographers and all who love great photos, camera and post processing techniques, gear talk, discussion and sharing. Professionals, hobbyists, newbies and those who don't even own a camera -- all are welcome regardless of skill, favourite brand, gear, gender or age. Registering and usage is free.