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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 24 Mar 2012 (Saturday) 19:19
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5D Mark III Underexposed

 
Phrasikleia
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Apr 29, 2012 21:53 |  #61

Dj R wrote in post #14350628 (external link)
speaking of underexposed. almost all of my shots today were underexposed.
on my lcd, they look beautiful. I guess I should turn the brightness down :(

any advise?

Yes, I have some advise that will serve you very well: learn to read a histogram. Chimp your histogram after an initial test shot. In a situation like this, you're good to go after one or two test shots. Better still: use UniWB to ensure that your histogram is giving you a relatively faithful representation of your raw image data. But regardless, definitely learn to use the histogram as your guide.


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Apr 29, 2012 21:55 |  #62

Phrasikleia wrote in post #14350707 (external link)
Yes, I have some advise that will serve you very well: learn to read a histogram.

alright thanks. I'll spend some time on this, appreciate it.


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Dj ­ R
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Apr 29, 2012 22:04 |  #63

IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
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Higgs ­ Boson
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Apr 29, 2012 22:10 |  #64

af points on the three areas have nothing to do with spot metering the ice. did your camera come with a manual?


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Apr 29, 2012 22:10 |  #65

Dj R wrote in post #14350628 (external link)
speaking of underexposed. almost all of my shots today were underexposed.
on my lcd, they look beautiful. I guess I should turn the brightness down :(

any advise?

spot meter

this shot, there are 3 AF points.
1 on the emblem
1 on the black part of the sleeve
1 on the ice

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+ 1.35
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I may try center-weighted a little more and dial in +1-1/3 to +1-2/3 EC if shooting aperture priority

I turned off AUTO LCD, it was giving me all sorts of problems even on the 7D. It looks by the histogram your underexposed. That's a lot of white yet your histogram is way on the left. Chimping would have told me I need to boost exposure. With all that white ice, it isn't surprising you got underexposed. I would expect the camera to be at least 1 stop underexposed in that situation.


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Saxi
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Apr 29, 2012 22:13 |  #66

Phrasikleia wrote in post #14350707 (external link)
Yes, I have some advise that will serve you very well: learn to read a histogram. Chimp your histogram after an initial test shot. In a situation like this, you're good to go after one or two test shots. Better still: use UniWB to ensure that your histogram is giving you a relatively faithful representation of your raw image data. But regardless, definitely learn to use the histogram as your guide.

I thought about using UniWB, but I didn't like the workflow, especially as I shoot candid 95% of the time. I like the idea of a more accurate LCD, I really wish Canon did something to make the LCD more accurate for RAW shooting.


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Phrasikleia
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Apr 29, 2012 22:19 |  #67

Saxi wrote in post #14350788 (external link)
I thought about using UniWB, but I didn't like the workflow, especially as I shoot candid 95% of the time. I like the idea of a more accurate LCD, I really wish Canon did something to make the LCD more accurate for RAW shooting.

Amen. The first camera that comes out with this ability will get my money. I really don't understand why it hasn't happened yet.


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Apr 29, 2012 22:30 as a reply to  @ Saxi's post |  #68

thx all


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Apr 29, 2012 22:37 |  #69

Just find it odd that Canon would give spot meter linked to AF point ONLY in it's $6800 body whereas Nikon does so in it's bottom feeder bodies.


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arentol
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Apr 29, 2012 23:05 |  #70

If the lighting isn't going to change, like in an indoor hockey rink, just set your exposure correctly once and you are done...

In manual mode put your longest lens on the camera, turn on spot metering, point at the ice and focus, then adjust your ISO, SS, and Aperture settings until your exposure meter reads +2. Take a normal shot and check the exposure meter, it should be dead center. If it is a little to one side or another make a 1/3rds adjustment and test again. Once it is correct you are done for the rest of the night. Ignore your meter and just shoot. If you need to change a setting just make sure you change one other to compensate.


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Apr 29, 2012 23:10 |  #71

arentol wrote in post #14351043 (external link)
If the lighting isn't going to change, like in an indoor hockey rink, just set your exposure correctly once and you are done...

In manual mode put your longest lens on the camera, turn on spot metering, point at the ice and focus, then adjust your ISO, SS, and Aperture settings until your exposure meter reads +2. Take a normal shot and check the exposure meter, it should be dead center. If it is a little to one side or another make a 1/3rds adjustment and test again. Once it is correct you are done for the rest of the night. Ignore your meter and just shoot. If you need to change a setting just make sure you change one other to compensate.

Why ignore your meter after all of that? Cut to the chase: just ignore it from the outset and read your histogram. If you're not clipping anything on the right, you're good to go.


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May 01, 2012 16:22 |  #72

Phrasikleia wrote in post #14350707 (external link)
Yes, I have some advise that will serve you very well: learn to read a histogram. Chimp your histogram after an initial test shot. In a situation like this, you're good to go after one or two test shots. Better still: use UniWB to ensure that your histogram is giving you a relatively faithful representation of your raw image data. But regardless, definitely learn to use the histogram as your guide.

This is good advice.

For what it's worth, I wonder if any others have fallen into a trap I set for myself. After using my 5D2 for a fair while I became accustomed to how the image should look on the LCD screen...like most people I chimp! And I preferred to turn all the info stuff off, histogram etc, so I could "evaluate" the image...not just exposure but composition etc.

Now that is all very well when you are familiar with a camera...I shoot a lot of low light stuff and was used to seeing a certain level of exposure that was pretty much okay...and my keeper rate, at least regarding exposures, was acceptable.

Now along comes the 5D3 with it's far better screen and whoa...a lot of under exposed images under certain conditions! In good light, everything was fine, but evening shots or pics taken in deep shade in the bush, under exposed! So is it the camer? No, it's the muggins using the camera.

I take a shot and have a quick look at the screen...looks absolutely fine, or a bit bright. But when downloaded most of the shots appear dull by comparison...disappoin​ting. So I did some tests alongside the 5D2...surprise...hardl​y a third of a stop difference, but the look of them on the LCD? Chalk and cheese.

So I have gone back to doing what I should have done from the start...used the histogram and not assumed I could estimate it myself...at least not till I'm totally familiar with the camera. The images the 5D3 displays, obviously processed jpegs, are amazing, but are a trap for the unwary. I guess that by changing the jpeg styles in the camera the images may tone down a bit, but in the meantime I'm using the histogram!


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May 01, 2012 16:27 |  #73

Dj R wrote in post #14350906 (external link)
Just find it odd that Canon would give spot meter linked to AF point ONLY in it's $6800 body whereas Nikon does so in it's bottom feeder bodies.

try evaluative metering, and see if you like the results. Evaluative metering is AF point biased


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Jun 18, 2012 23:15 as a reply to  @ KCY's post |  #74

To everyone here who had a complaint about the 5D3 slightly underexposing, where do you stand now?

Learned to live with it and adapt?
Exchanged bodies?
Sent it in to Canon for analysis?

I've upgraded from a T2i and a T3i (both metered identically to each other), and the Rebels metering and brightness were bang on most of the time. I've tested 3 5D3s and all of them metered the same and "underexposed" relative to my Rebels, so I'm beginning to think this is either as-designed for the 5D3 or the batch I tested was bad. I could always raise exposure in LR4 but it's a waste of effort and introduces garbage into the image.

https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1194169


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Sep 03, 2012 10:59 |  #75

I am going to send mine to to have it checked. I have been shooting with it a lot and it consistently under-exposes when outdoors as compared to my d mkIV. I can work around it, but why should I have to. I currently have to keep the camera at +1 1/3 in av mode for it to meter correctly. It's kind of a bummer. I never sent it in for the light leak issue, so I guess I do that at the same time.


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