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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 12 May 2012 (Saturday) 10:42
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Tokina 11-16 or Canon 10-22

 
mazen
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May 12, 2012 10:42 |  #1

Hello,
I am going to buy a new lens for my T3i , I want it as wide as possible, so my choices are Tokina 11-16 and canon 10-22 canon. What do you guys recommend?

thanks




  
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lazer-jock
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May 12, 2012 10:48 |  #2

I went with the Tokina. I often find myself in a small dark room without enough lights to make it look realistic without simply reverting to natural light. For that, the f/2.8 helps quite a bit.


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amfoto1
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May 12, 2012 10:59 |  #3

Neither. I recommend and use the Tokina 12-24/4.

Why? It's got a much broader range of focal lengths than the Toki 11-16 and I don't really need f2.8 on an UWA lens. It's also $100 cheaper and far less prone to flare issues.

Compared to the Canon 10-22... it's almost as flare resistant as that exceptionally flare resistant lens. And it's not only better built (more "L-like"), it's also more than $200 US cheaper (by the time you buy the separately sold lens hood for the 10-22). Sure, I have to take one or two steps backward because it's not quite as wide as 10mm. But it's worth it to me. 12mm is still pretty darned wide.

I worried about Tokina having revese rotation compared to Canon (Toki lenses have the same direction as Nikon lenses)... but I don't even notice it in use. I also worried about not having USM. But an UWA lens only has to move it's focus group a fraction of an inch to achieve focus, so it's fast and nearly silent even without USM. Not having USM also means it doesn't have Full Time Manual override of AF, but I find I virtually never use manual focus with it anyway.

When I was shopping I looked closely at Canon 10-22, Toki 11-16, Toki 12-24, Sigma 10-20 (the variable aperture version), Tamron 10-24 and liked the overall price/performance/buil​d of the Toki 12-24 best of the bunch. There are a couple newer lenses that migh be worth consideration: Sigma 10-20 variable aperture has been revised somehow. Sigma 8-16mm is the widest UWA available if you need an extreme lens. Sigma 10-20/3.5 has both fixed aperture and HSM. Sigma 12-24 has been revised and is a full frame capable lens.

If you have money to burn, the Canon 10-22 is the best performer overall, though it's a bit plasticky. It has unusually good flare resistance (and flare is often a concern with an UWA lens). Image quality is top notch. And it has USM. It's just one of the most expensive options and not as well built as some of the other lenses (this might have little or no effect on long term durability... Canon's plastic "mid-grade" gold stripe, USM lenses are pretty long-lived and durable). The Toki 12-24 is, IMO, a close second, but at a much lower price and with better "feel" thanks to a beefier build (more metal, more "L-like").


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J.Litton
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May 12, 2012 11:01 |  #4

Ever consider the Canon 14mm?


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RPCrowe
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May 12, 2012 11:11 |  #5

amfoto1 wrote in post #14420806 (external link)
Neither. I recommend and use the Tokina 12-24/4.

Why? It's got a much broader range of focal lengths than the Toki 11-16 and I don't really need f2.8 on an UWA lens. It's also $100 cheaper and far less prone to flare issues.

Compared to the Canon 10-22... it's almost as flare resistant as that exceptionally flare resistant lens. And it's not only better built (more "L-like"), it's also more than $200 US cheaper (by the time you buy the separately sold lens hood for the 10-22). Sure, I have to take one or two steps backward because it's not quite as wide as 10mm. But it's worth it to me. 12mm is still pretty darned wide.

I worried about Tokina having revese rotation compared to Canon (Toki lenses have the same direction as Nikon lenses)... but I don't even notice it in use. I also worried about not having USM. But an UWA lens only has to move it's focus group a fraction of an inch to achieve focus, so it's fast and nearly silent even without USM. Not having USM also means it doesn't have Full Time Manual override of AF, but I find I virtually never use manual focus with it anyway.

When I was shopping I looked closely at Canon 10-22, Toki 11-16, Toki 12-24, Sigma 10-20 (the variable aperture version), Tamron 10-24 and liked the overall price/performance/buil​d of the Toki 12-24 best of the bunch. There are a couple newer lenses that migh be worth consideration: Sigma 10-20 variable aperture has been revised somehow. Sigma 8-16mm is the widest UWA available if you need an extreme lens. Sigma 10-20/3.5 has both fixed aperture and HSM. Sigma 12-24 has been revised and is a full frame capable lens.

If you have money to burn, the Canon 10-22 is the best performer overall, though it's a bit plasticky. It has unusually good flare resistance (and flare is often a concern with an UWA lens). Image quality is top notch. And it has USM. It's just one of the most expensive options and not as well built as some of the other lenses (this might have little or no effect on long term durability... Canon's plastic "mid-grade" gold stripe, USM lenses are pretty long-lived and durable). The Toki 12-24 is, IMO, a close second, but at a much lower price and with better "feel" thanks to a beefier build (more metal, more "L-like").

I totally agree with the above! I absolutely LOVE my 12-24mm Tokina. I can live with the 1-2mm longer FL at the wide end. IMO, the extra 4mm (over the 20mm lenses) and extra 8mm (over the 11-16 Tokina) on the long side is a great trade off. I like 24mm because I can use it in a pinch as a short mid-range zoom.

Another thing that I like about the Tokina lenses is that they are NOT EFS mount. They can be used on a full frame camera (although they tend to vignette at the widest settings) but more importantly for me; I can use the 12-24mm Tokina on my old Canon D60 (not 60D) DSLR which is a 1.6x camera (so I can use the Tokina at all focal lengths) but which cannot accept EFS lenses. I have modified the D60 to a full-time Infra-Red camera.

I have had no problems with flare and the lens is built like a sturdy Mack Truck.


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Sirrith
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May 12, 2012 11:40 |  #6

If you're shooting indoors or at night, then get the 11-16. If you're shooting outdoors, the 10-22.


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Preeb
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May 12, 2012 13:53 as a reply to  @ Sirrith's post |  #7

The Canon 10-22 if you want a lens which is actually engineered for your body, rather than one that is reverse engineered to work on your body. Canon for flare resistance, exceptional distortion control for an ultrawide zoom, and a range that is just handy.

The comments about build quality and "plasticky" feel are just silly. Such comments are usually made by people just parroting what they've read from others who were in turn parroting others. Most good lenses have many high quality plastic components, including many "L" lenses. This has absolutely nothing to do with their build quality. Weight has nothing to do with build quality. Fits and tolerances and adherence to design specifications are what determine build quality, and you have to take the lens apart and spec it to determine that.

I have 2 "L" lenses and 3 non "L" lenses and I can't tell by holding them and turning the rings which is which. All 5 are high quality lenses from which I expect to get many years of service. None are $100 kit lenses. If you want to talk build quality, that's where you should start. The only reason the 10-22 isn't an "L" is because of its EF-S mount. It isn't weather sealed, but that would be redundant since it's designed to be used on bodies which also aren't sealed.


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Aus.Morgo
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May 12, 2012 18:42 |  #8

I recently bought the Tokina 11-16. My main use for this lens was to be astrophotography but it performs well at other tasks as well.


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Bonbridge
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May 13, 2012 04:57 |  #9

Choose the 11-16 it's a real good lens!

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May 13, 2012 06:09 |  #10

Sirrith wrote in post #14420967 (external link)
If you're shooting indoors or at night, then get the 11-16. If you're shooting outdoors, the 10-22.

Exactly right. I own both and use them in just this manner. The 11-16 is really only used for wide-angle star shots. Even then one has to watch out for flare if the Moon happens to be about.


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cobra671
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May 13, 2012 06:23 |  #11

mazen wrote in post #14420741 (external link)
Hello,
I am going to buy a new lens for my T3i , I want it as wide as possible, so my choices are Tokina 11-16 and canon 10-22 canon. What do you guys recommend?

thanks

If this is the case, I think you should add the Sigma 8-16 to the mix. Otherwise, I'd get the Canon.

Good luck in your search!




  
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Tsmith
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May 13, 2012 08:16 as a reply to  @ cobra671's post |  #12

Never had an issue using the 10-22mm inside an dimly lit Museum. Hand holding at 1/30 sec. (even 1/15 sec. if you can prop up) with a wide open aperture and with most modern cameras giving pleasing results up to ISO 3200 makes it work well.




  
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gotak
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May 13, 2012 08:40 |  #13

Tsmith wrote in post #14424226 (external link)
Never had an issue using the 10-22mm inside an dimly lit Museum. Hand holding at 1/30 sec. (even 1/15 sec. if you can prop up) with a wide open aperture and with most modern cameras giving pleasing results up to ISO 3200 makes it work well.

People forget the F2.8 isn't just for when you take the photo. The camera AF with the lens wide open as well. Which means when it gets low light the tokina might acquire focus (and yes you do need to focus even with UWA) while the other ones don't.


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Tsmith
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May 13, 2012 14:40 |  #14

gotak wrote in post #14424304 (external link)
People forget the F2.8 isn't just for when you take the photo. The camera AF with the lens wide open as well. Which means when it gets low light the tokina might acquire focus (and yes you do need to focus even with UWA) while the other ones don't.

Never do I remember a situation where I couldn't acquire focus when using my 10-22mm lens. But you are right in the aspect of an f/2.8 lens.




  
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justdamnit
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May 13, 2012 14:50 |  #15

i prefer the tokina 11-16mm, the build quality is great and is very sharp from edge to edge, also the sunburst is beautiful. i missed this lens the most since i moved up to full frame


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Tokina 11-16 or Canon 10-22
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