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Thread started 28 Dec 2011 (Wednesday) 21:17
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Canon 60D Users, Unite! (3)

 
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Mircom
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May 28, 2012 19:41 |  #9061

Rivest wrote in post #14497374 (external link)
Want to be amazed? Check this Flickr gallery. Now. Click that link, you won't regret. Safe for work also. Who thought water drops were cool?

http://www.flickr.com …64895423/with/6​919678994/ (external link)

WOW David, thanks for sharing that link. Amazing stuff is right. WOW


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questionmarc
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May 28, 2012 19:44 |  #9062

Rivest wrote in post #14497432 (external link)
Same for the 5DmkII thread. Sure there's nice pictures, but I have way more fun in here.

I also keep my exif intact. I like helping people out, if they want to know how I did a certain picture, they can have look at my settings.


I just did a 60D comparison between my 300mm to check the background blur. Camera on tripod, never moved. Lens were on the same spot. Background wasn't too busy, but you can see a noticeable difference.
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you can almost make out that disgusting (imo) pentabokeh - 2.8 is pretty creamy there!


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questionmarc
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May 28, 2012 19:50 |  #9063

rpadula wrote in post #14497428 (external link)
OK, you got it!

I'll have to get back to you on histogram. I shot all these through the viewfinder, which is how I was used to it way back when I owned an AE-1 some 20 years ago! Heck, I'm still getting used to the fact you can even change ISO from picture to picture, rather than finishing the whole roll of film first!

I customized one or two things in the initial camera setup, but pretty much shot with the settings as they came out of the box. I used Aperture mode, usually f/2.0 or 2.2 for lower-light. Lens was the 50mm 1.8 II.

Below are some examples of what I was up against. First sets the stage. Dark background. Bass player had a red stage light on him, and he's wearing a red shirt too! Lovely. The young lady had two white lights shining down on her, and the guitarist had a yellow light on him. There was also outside light coming in from a large window on the right side of the stage. I have many shots that came out very similar to this one:

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/44279927@N07/7​288983366/  (external link)
IMG_0263 (external link) by RichPadula (external link), on Flickr

In looking at this first picture after the fact, it looks like (a) it focused on the background,(b) there is also some motion blur in the girl's hand, and (c) she is very overexposed, as are the guitarist's elbow and guitar face - there's very little detail in the wood grain.

(a) I can fix by aiming better. Of course, two weeks later I can't remember which of the red dots fired the focus. However, I thought I had it programmed to center point all the time. This is where the manual comes in, too, as my focus mode was one-shot. I didn't even know about auto/servo modes.

(b) I also noticed all of these shots were either 1/60 or 1/80 shutter speed. Something faster would've prevented motion blur. Is this an artifact of Av mode? It's almost as if it'll drive down to the lowest "allowable" shutter speed before bumping up the ISO. So, if I want a faster shutter speed, my option is manual mode? The last I remember of my AE-1 was that I loved Shutter Priority, the faster the better!

(c) Metering seemed toughest for me. Default, per the manual again, was evaluative metering (the dot with the circle around it). Thinking that was too bright, I did shoot a couple with spot metering (just the dot), but then I got incredibly dark shots like this (although the girl was exposed much better):

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/44279927@N07/7​288981650/  (external link)
IMG_0223 (external link) by RichPadula (external link), on Flickr

However, even though those came out quite dark, I found I could pull out a decent amount of detail in playing with the sliders on iPhoto. So this indicates to me that somewhat underexposed is preferable to overexposed. This also teaches me that I have a whole different avenue -- post-processing -- to learn. Last time I did that, it was called "developing." ;)

Any other ideas about how to improve my results this type of setting? I'll probably be going back there again.

Thanks,
Rich

anyone correct me if i am wrong but av depends on your metering system (i use spot metering) where it samples the light from a specific spot of your image there were too many lights going on and im assuming since your metering was on evaluative metering so the camera would read differently everytime you shot which would change the shutter speed often

+ your ISO could have been too low?

i never shoot dark places or without flash most of the time so i'll go with what i know (which isn't that much btw)

i'd shoot manual and chimp (take test shots until you are satisfied with your results) and then go from there.

i find the 60d's ISO capabilities are lacking as when i (hopefully) get wedding gigs i will have a hard time getting good shots without flash.

hopefully that helps


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vinmunoz
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May 28, 2012 19:50 |  #9064

I don't think in the last photo you can expose them all right. The lady has a spotlight. If you meter her correctly, the guyz surely will become underexpose.

I've read the min shutterspeed is 1/(focal length x 1.6) but you shoot in aperture priority so the camera decided the shutterspeed. if moving subject i usually use shutter speed priority(TV).

In the stage, lights are dancing so i sometimes used auto iso. you can set the maximum auto iso to your liking.

i'm not that expert so that's based on my own experienced. David(a.k.a. Rivest) is the one who always shoots in the bar


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Rivest
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May 28, 2012 20:02 |  #9065

questionmarc wrote in post #14497462 (external link)
you can almost make out that disgusting (imo) pentabokeh - 2.8 is pretty creamy there!

Well, that 300mm F4 bokeh isn't that bad, I actually like it. But that F2.8 is impressive.

By the way, my 300mm F4 is for sale, as is my 24-70.


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questionmarc
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May 28, 2012 20:06 |  #9066

Rivest wrote in post #14497524 (external link)
Well, that 300mm F4 bokeh isn't that bad, I actually like it. But that F2.8 is impressive.

By the way, my 300mm F4 is for sale, as is my 24-70.

yea i'm a bokeh guy - i changed my whole style of shooting just so i can get creamy bokeh again with my strobes

thats why i switched to primes bokeh past 2.8 just keeps getting beter and better

how much are you selling your brick zoom for?


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Rivest
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May 28, 2012 20:08 |  #9067

questionmarc wrote in post #14497542 (external link)
yea i'm a bokeh guy - i changed my whole style of shooting just so i can get creamy bokeh again with my strobes

thats why i switched to primes bokeh past 2.8 just keeps getting beter and better

how much are you selling your brick zoom for?

I want to get 1000$CAN in my pocket. So around 980$US + shipping I guess.


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MakisM1
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May 28, 2012 20:36 |  #9068

Rich, I believe that the blur comes from 2 sources.

Camera motion (1/80 SS is the absolute minimum) I'd use 1/160 as a minimum, probably more.

Wide aperture. The nifty fifty is not all that great faster than f2.8. Say you used f4

So you need 3 f-stops. Nominally from ISO 500 to ISO 4000.

Well, in the first photo you know that the girl is overexposed (histogram would have told you this.

So you could pick ISO3200.

A word of advice. Use full ISOs (100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, 12800). The intermediate values are actually shot in full ISO increment and the pushed or pulled down to the desired. I.e. if you choose ISO125, it will shoot at hardware ISO100 and the push it in camera to ISO 125. Conversely, if you want ISO 160, it will shoot ISO200 and then pull it down to ISO160 in-camera.

There is a school that says that the lower to the full or native ISO will have less noise because the exposure is pulled, but unless you set the ISO (not Auto-ISO) the you can get the worse case as well.

For the software I am using, I find it very difficult to beat the IQ of the in-camera NR when set to standard. Your mileage with Lightroom may differ, I just find it a **** trying to beat Canon in ISO12800. So, for really high ISO I end up using JPG. I do a little supplemental NR in GIMP with Wavelet Denoise.

For what it is worth, I don't think that the camera misfocused, but I could be wrong. Are you using the center point or 1 point AF?

Getting back to the blurriness, it could be that the people move and the low SS captures the movement. Then the motioness background appears sharper.


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May 28, 2012 23:29 |  #9069

Thanks Gerry. I'm not using Full ISO either. I learned something from you today.

I'm turning off in-camera NR to reduce shutterlag.

I second to the focus background. Because it's motionless, not moving.


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May 28, 2012 23:40 |  #9070

Vinz, I think you are talking about Long Exposure NR, CFn 2, Option1. The one you have to wait for an amount of time equal to the exposure.

I am talking about High ISO Speed NR, CFn 2, Option 2. This one I have on standard (0). This one does not affect the shutterlag. I haven't experimented with Low or Strong NR options. I find that if I expose it a bit to the right, without clipping hilights, the camera does a good job in NR. Then I can apply whatever is needed in GIMP for the final stage.

Here is an example of before and after the final NR in GIMP

Before

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After

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There is a different crop on the before...

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May 29, 2012 00:29 |  #9071

I agree cameras push and pull ISO as you describe Gerry. Interestingly though, I came across an amusing video a while ago, suggesting we 'most especially' avoid ISOs in multiples of 125 - for 'shooting video.' So avoid 125, 250, 500, 1000. He may be inferring that the same holds true for stills. This is still in line with shooting in 'full' ISOs, but is stating there is a 'worst of the worst' to avoid...

http://vimeo.com/17863​518 (external link)

the same advice is echoed here http://vimeo.com …l/lesson/95/mas​tering-iso (external link)

I justfound this post in a forum (2nd post on page with graph):

http://www.fredmiranda​.com/forum/topic/64760​8/1 (external link)

its all a good read.

I'm a Lightroom fan - their NR is incredible and even better in Lr4 in regards to pushing shadow details, much cleaner vs Lr3.

Cheers,

MakisM1 wrote in post #14497643 (external link)
A word of advice. Use full ISOs (100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, 12800). The intermediate values are actually shot in full ISO increment and the pushed or pulled down to the desired. I.e. if you choose ISO125, it will shoot at hardware ISO100 and the push it in camera to ISO 125. Conversely, if you want ISO 160, it will shoot ISO200 and then pull it down to ISO160 in-camera.

There is a school that says that the lower to the full or native ISO will have less noise because the exposure is pulled, but unless you set the ISO (not Auto-ISO) the you can get the worse case as well.

For the software I am using, I find it very difficult to beat the IQ of the in-camera NR when set to standard. Your mileage with Lightroom may differ, I just find it a **** trying to beat Canon in ISO12800. So, for really high ISO I end up using JPG. I do a little supplemental NR in GIMP with Wavelet Denoise.


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May 29, 2012 00:42 |  #9072

Few more shots from saturday trip..

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IMG_9959.jpg (external link) by denbow98 (external link), on Flickr

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May 29, 2012 00:49 |  #9073

Thanks Gerry. I just set mind to standard and use 1:1-Stop on ISO to get only the full ISO.

Learn a lot from you guys....

here's my experiment of ETTR using ISO 12800.

one of my bathroom with light not turn on. the only ambient light is a tungsten from my hallway.

1 stop ETTR(Exposure to the right) then 1 stop down in ligthroom and did a noise reduction(luminance 40, Color 40). Slide the contrast to +30.

ISO12800 | 50mm | F2.8 | Shutter Speed 1/13

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May 29, 2012 00:51 as a reply to  @ denbow98's post |  #9074

denbow98 wrote:
Few more shots from saturday trip..

Excellent set Dennis... wow...


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May 29, 2012 00:55 |  #9075

Question:

When shooting kids playing, i sometimes used TV and set my ISO to Auto.

The problem is I always want to overexpose all the time by one stop(ETTR), is there a way to set this in the camera? To give me an automatic 1 stop to the right using TV?


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