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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 30 May 2012 (Wednesday) 03:03
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5d mark III Manual Focus Issue

 
Stoneh
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May 30, 2012 03:03 |  #1

I am trying to get into the art of manual focussing, I have ran into an annoying problem.
When the image is clear in the viewfinder the image taken comes out blurred/very soft. The focus confirmation nails the picture spot on but in my viewfinder its slightly soft, i'd say out by a couple of mm on the focus ring. Could it be i need a Diopter adjustment lens say -2 because my viewfinder is clear near the - setting of the adjuster.

My eyesight is ok, nothing bad and i dont wear glasses. I can adjust so the viewfinder is clear but camera is interpreting whats clear differently to my eyes.

My options (what i think) are listed below, if anyone has any others or have any advice what I need to test, do would be greatly appreciated.


1. Diopter adjusted lens
2. Shimming
3. Within tolerance? And i should adopt?

Has anyone had this problem? Would like to hear from the MF warriors out there :)




  
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FlyingPhotog
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May 30, 2012 03:23 |  #2

Is it a manual focus lens or are you just manually focusing an AF lens?


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KCY
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May 30, 2012 03:24 |  #3

can't help with MF, but can help with diopter setting.

it should be independent of lens, to set it go to a darkened room so you can see the Viewfinder display info/ AF points clearly.

In the dark room you should get the VF info as clear as possible, that should be the best Diopter setting.

hope that makes sense


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Stoneh
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May 30, 2012 03:55 as a reply to  @ KCY's post |  #4

Thanks KC - I will try this

Jay, its a AF lens. I wanted to practice my MF technique before I buy invest into the expensive Zeiss glass. I have had so many QA problems with my 35L's that I have given up. The last one which I thought was a great copy but realised anything over 10ft and it would front focus heavily. So I have been offered a Zeiss 35 F2 ZE by a long distance friend. I did try the manual focus Samyang 35mm which I could not focus accurately at all. Focus confirmation did not work with that lens because it did not have the chip inside.

I must admit the focus confirmation is unbelievably accurate - could this be because its a canon AF lens being used in Manual? I mean keeper rate 80%




  
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Gatorboy
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May 30, 2012 04:13 |  #5

Did you set your lens to MF? My gut feel is, operator error.


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Stoneh
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May 30, 2012 04:18 |  #6

Gatorboy wrote in post #14504607 (external link)
Did you set your lens to MF? My gut feel is, operator error.

Lol, yes definately set to M




  
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light_pilgrim
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May 30, 2012 05:55 |  #7

Stoneh wrote in post #14504577 (external link)
Thanks KC - I will try this

Jay, its a AF lens. I wanted to practice my MF technique before I buy invest into the expensive Zeiss glass. I have had so many QA problems with my 35L's that I have given up. The last one which I thought was a great copy but realised anything over 10ft and it would front focus heavily. So I have been offered a Zeiss 35 F2 ZE by a long distance friend. I did try the manual focus Samyang 35mm which I could not focus accurately at all. Focus confirmation did not work with that lens because it did not have the chip inside.

I must admit the focus confirmation is unbelievably accurate - could this be because its a canon AF lens being used in Manual? I mean keeper rate 80%

Zeiss 35 f/1.4 is super complex lens for MF on MKII and MKIII......I really need to work you here.


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Stoneh
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May 30, 2012 09:43 |  #8

I dont have the Zeiss 35 1.4, i have the option of a Zeiss T Distagon ZE F2




  
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whtrbt7
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May 30, 2012 13:07 |  #9

Okie dokie. So you're saying that your diopter is set correctly and clear but you're getting fuzzy images. First thing is, if you're using MF on a Canon AF lens, it's going to be squishy. You really should not be using the viewfinder to focus but should be using the live view to fine tune the focus with the zoom function before you compose. The AF lenses don't have hard stops and are finicky because they may slip. So why focus using the Live View? Well, for one, it's got a zoom function on it so you can see the edges you want in razor sharp focus, the other thing is that you can actually see the end result image while you are focusing manually. Lastly, you need to give us your shooting settings because if you're trying to shoot at lower than 1/20th of a second, you're going to blur the image because you breath air. If you really want to shoot at 1/20th or lower, I would suggest taking diazepam/valium in order to slow your heart rate and steady you like a sniper. Overall, even with the MF assist light, you should really use the live view to focus unless you have a focusing screen for the viewfinder. Razor sharp focus is achieved by taking these kind of measures.




  
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Stoneh
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May 30, 2012 16:14 |  #10

I have done tests MF- no assist vs MF with focus assist, with focus assist i get sharp images even though focus doesnt look right trough the viewfinder. I dont thinks its anything to do with hand holding technique at all. Sent email to canon for advice




  
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borealis
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May 31, 2012 15:59 |  #11

I've used several manual 35s (mostly 35mm/2 Nikkor) on newer and older digital bodies.

Given the information you've provided, if you are near the limits of the built-in diopter you might want to go for an eye exam and explain the situation to your optometrist: and additional lens might be required.


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WLR
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Nov 26, 2012 21:44 |  #12

I too had disappointing performance from a 5D Mk3 when in manual mode with the 100-400 + 1.4 extender.
Traveled over 11k miles to shoot a solar eclipse with the 5D and also a 7D which was attached to a modified Nikon 1000mm lens. The 7D images were sharp up to the point of showing atmospheric distortion......the 5D disappointingly soft to the point I wouldn't make anything larger than a 5x7.
After I came back home I did a side by side test of the sun, using the same lens combo with a solar filter in manual mode looking through the viewfinder. A good sized sunspot provided an excellent reference for focus. I made the necessary focal length calculations with the 7D to get the sun to the same size as the 5D Mk3 image.
Again the 5D Mk3results are disappointing at best. Attached are 2 images, the first being with the 7D and 100-400-1.4x extender combo, nice and sharp.
Next is an enlarged 5D Mk3 eclipse image to match the size of the 7D image, same lens combo.
So fellow 5D ers......whats going on here?


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WLR
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Nov 26, 2012 22:15 |  #13

Update: Did a test with the moon tonight with 3 images....1st sharp image was with the 100-400 in AF mode and the 2nd image is in MF mode. Both via the viewfinder.
Both images are cropped to actual pixels plus one click of "zoom in" with CS5.
The 3rd image (not posted) using the magnefied live view was just a knats hair sharper than AF.
What think yee ? :confused:


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rrblint
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Nov 26, 2012 22:54 as a reply to  @ WLR's post |  #14

Two questions:

1.) Are you using a tripod?

2.) Are you getting focus confirmation with manual focus?


Mark

  
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maverick75
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Nov 26, 2012 23:01 |  #15

I had the same problem, the image would look in focus through the viewfinder and LCD but it would be OOF when viewed on my monitor. Then I got an AF confirm chip and it nails focus 99% of the time using that(but it looks OOF though the VF).

The trick I learned was to press the shutter right when it looks to be in focus, not twiddle back and forth until it looks perfect. Works 90% of the time for me.


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5d mark III Manual Focus Issue
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