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Thread started 30 May 2012 (Wednesday) 11:05
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Aperture setting for landscape photos

 
huntersdad
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May 31, 2012 10:00 |  #16

First app I bought for my iPod was DOFmaster - handles this easily.


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May 31, 2012 10:07 |  #17

Ill echo the question about "why Tv mode". With landscape photography, most of the time you are concerned with achieving a suitable amount of DOF for the scene and if you allow your camera to select the aperture for you, you're going to have trouble with this. I suggest using Av since you can pick your aperture and allow the camera to select the shutter speed since it matters less from a tripod (assuming you are using a tripod like you should). Or, better yet, try out manual.

Also related discussion here: https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1190120


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May 31, 2012 10:12 |  #18

huntersdad wrote in post #14511107 (external link)
First app I bought for my iPod was DOFmaster - handles this easily.

Me, too! The default DoF it calculates is based on viewing an 8x12" print from about 12-15". If you print bigger (or view from closer), you would be wise to stop down more (or enter a CoC smaller than the default one).


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RSMarco
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May 31, 2012 14:27 |  #19

I only use Tv mode if I'm being creative with water but usually shoot manual and play around until I get the effect I'm after.


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JohnB57
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May 31, 2012 15:00 |  #20

If you're monitoring both shutter speed and aperture, it doesn't matter what mode you're in.

Sounding like an old fart again, but back in the day - pre-A1- film bodies only had at most one auto mode so you had to get used to working in a certain way, depending on whether that was Av or Tv.




  
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Logicus
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May 31, 2012 15:12 |  #21

Given all of this, I purchased a Sigma 12-24mm f/4.5-5.6 to replace my Tamron 10-24mm (as well as use it on my 5d2) and to get corner to corner sharpness, I typically have to use f/18 and have no real issues shooting at f/22 - granted, it's the only lens that behaves this way. Any other lens in my bag never sees anything smaller than f/11 or so.


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JohnB57
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May 31, 2012 15:39 |  #22

Logicus wrote in post #14512527 (external link)
Given all of this, I purchased a Sigma 12-24mm f/4.5-5.6 to replace my Tamron 10-24mm (as well as use it on my 5d2) and to get corner to corner sharpness, I typically have to use f/18 and have no real issues shooting at f/22...

This is clearly not a conventional DoF issue, so what do you put the lack of sharpness at wide aperture down to with the Sigma? Field curvature maybe?




  
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Logicus
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May 31, 2012 16:32 |  #23

JohnB57 wrote in post #14512649 (external link)
This is clearly not a conventional DoF issue, so what do you put the lack of sharpness at wide aperture down to with the Sigma? Field curvature maybe?

I'm thinking it's got something to do with the extremely wide angle and field of view, for sure.... you figure, at f/10 or 11, you should be able to catch everything, but at 10mm on full frame, I'll shoot a waterfall that's, maybe 50-70 yards or more away. So, say, the distance lens-focal point is 70 yards, you have parts of the comp that are being picked up at the extreme sides that are only 1 yard in front of the lens.That's a lot of area to cover.


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May 31, 2012 16:44 |  #24

Logicus wrote in post #14512840 (external link)
I'm thinking it's got something to do with the extremely wide angle and field of view, for sure.... you figure, at f/10 or 11, you should be able to catch everything, but at 10mm on full frame, I'll shoot a waterfall that's, maybe 50-70 yards or more away. So, say, the distance lens-focal point is 70 yards, you have parts of the comp that are being picked up at the extreme sides that are only 1 yard in front of the lens.That's a lot of area to cover.

The hyper focal distance at f/16 is what, a couple of feet, I would think. So, focusing on something closer than the falls would get them in focus and the rocks at your toes -that's where DoF preview and zoom in 10x on LV for critical focus can really help with the 5D2 (or any LiveView camera). I'm not sure I trust hype focal distances to assure infinity focus so DoF preview/LV really helps.


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JohnB57
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May 31, 2012 17:27 |  #25

Logicus wrote in post #14512840 (external link)
I'm thinking it's got something to do with the extremely wide angle and field of view, for sure.... you figure, at f/10 or 11, you should be able to catch everything, but at 10mm on full frame, I'll shoot a waterfall that's, maybe 50-70 yards or more away. So, say, the distance lens-focal point is 70 yards, you have parts of the comp that are being picked up at the extreme sides that are only 1 yard in front of the lens.That's a lot of area to cover.

I may have misunderstood your post but I thought you were comparing the Tamron with the Sigma in terms of DoF, hence my interest.

As AJS says, hyperfocal distance at 12mm and f/16 is 19.1 inches for crop and 12.3 inches for FF so even accounting for field curvature, you should easily get everything sharp.

As a side issue, I wish you folks over the pond would go metric...




  
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Logicus
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May 31, 2012 18:17 |  #26

JohnB57 wrote in post #14513045 (external link)
I may have misunderstood your post but I thought you were comparing the Tamron with the Sigma in terms of DoF, hence my interest.

As AJS says, hyperfocal distance at 12mm and f/16 is 19.1 inches for crop and 12.3 inches for FF so even accounting for field curvature, you should easily get everything sharp.

As a side issue, I wish you folks over the pond would go metric...

Gotcha... the Sigma is certainly a very different uwa lens to the Tamron - mainly because I can use it all the way down to 12mm on FF whereas the Tamron could only be used to about 13.5mm before vignetting set in.

And yeah, someone a long time ago had a fetish with fractions or something. And I think they're trying to, they just can't commit... my Jeep is full of metric and imperial-sized nuts and bolts...


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Hogloff
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May 31, 2012 19:24 |  #27
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Starting at F8, I use liveview to ensure everything I want is in focus. If something is not in focus, I will close down the aperture until everything comes into focus. I've never worried about going past F16, as what choice would there be if everything is not in focus at a larger aperture.




  
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May 31, 2012 19:52 as a reply to  @ Hogloff's post |  #28

As shooting landscape, there will be nobody to complain about your shoots unless you are paid to do this job.

My point is: why not try to shoot from f/2.8 to f/22 with your 24-70 and see which one come out the BEST - the mood of the shot of f/2.8 will be very different with f/22. Sometime you may not even want everything 'shape' or 'crystal clear'.

BTW I shoot landscape with 85L @ f/1.2 sometime.

Just my two cents.

Somewhat the landscape photographer is luckier than portrait photographer ;)


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Jason ­ L
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May 31, 2012 20:50 |  #29

I rarely shoot a landscape at less than f11 unless I am using an ultrawide lens or tilt shift. I would much rather a slight loss in sharpness at f22 than a blurry foreground or clouds. I am usually between f16 and 22. Unless you are printing big or peeping at 100%, you wouldn't notice diffraction effects, but insufficient DOF is noticeable at any size.


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noisejammer
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May 31, 2012 23:39 |  #30

OP - since you want control over DoF and exposure, why are you not running the camera on auto ISO and manual mode? I can't speak for the 5D3 but the 5D2 allows this and it works fine.

Some thoughts on DoF...

Many hyperfocal programs and tables were calculated for film resolutions, where the circle of tolerable confusion is ~30 microns. When calculating the hyperfocal distance, be sure to take into account the tolerable size of the circle of confusion. With the 5D2 / 5D3, you won't be far wrong if you work with about 8 microns for the sensor's true resolution. This makes the range of acceptable focus a lot narrower. (Well slightly more than 3x narrower if you want me to do the sum. :) )

Diffraction starts to become an issue when a lens' resolution of the lens is larger than the sensor's resolution. It's fairly easy to calculate this, but the sweet spot for the 5D2 / 5D3 is not that far from f/11. iirc, it's about f/10 - but that's splitting hairs.

After that, things start to get fugly. At f/22, the diffraction spot is now twice the diameter which means four times the area and your lovely 20-odd megapixel camera is producing images with the resolution of a 5 megapixel camera. This is not a calamity but it may be important to you.

The trade off is usually to place your foreground in good focus, stop down to f/11 or f/16 and allow the background to get slightly soft. I find this a lot less visually disturbing than having the foreground soft and the background crisp. Even better, get a t/s lens which allows large aperture setting without sacrificing DoF.


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Aperture setting for landscape photos
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