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FORUMS Photo Sharing & Visual Enjoyment Nature & Landscapes 
Thread started 08 Jun 2012 (Friday) 21:53
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Great Wall of China

 
PFoto
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Jun 08, 2012 21:53 |  #1

Here are a few pics I got of the Great Wall at Jinshanling near Beijing last week. Pretty cool location since it was about 2 hours away from the city. We were pretty lucky to have gone the day after a rain storm, so we got nice clear blue sky with fluffy white clouds.

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Here is a sunset shot I tried to take.
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This is by far one of my favorite image just because it looks like something out of a "My Neighbor Totoro" movie.
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Peter



  
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rick_reno
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Jun 09, 2012 09:57 |  #2

really like 2 and 4




  
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tmcman
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Jun 09, 2012 23:59 |  #3

Some Disney clouds in especially 2.


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wayne_eddy
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Jun 10, 2012 06:33 |  #4

You were there on the right day, no ppl about. We will be there in early November.

Would have been good to see some more sky detail in each image, it looks a lot blown out.

Composition could have been improved.


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PFoto
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Jun 10, 2012 23:38 |  #5

wayne_eddy wrote in post #14557865 (external link)
You were there on the right day, no ppl about. We will be there in early November.

Would have been good to see some more sky detail in each image, it looks a lot blown out.

Composition could have been improved.

Do you have any other recommendations so that I can improve. I'm still very new at this. Any advice will be helpful.

I used a newly acquired Tokina 11-16mm for most of the shots. Also it was my first time using a CPL on my lens.

The sunset shot and the sign image was shot using a Sigma 17-50mm. The sunset shot was really hard to get right since it was also first time I used any Cokin GND filter. Also the amount of clouds seem to decrease near the end of the day.

Thanks,
Peter




  
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wayne_eddy
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Jun 11, 2012 04:25 |  #6

PFoto wrote in post #14561122 (external link)
Do you have any other recommendations so that I can improve. I'm still very new at this. Any advice will be helpful.

I used a newly acquired Tokina 11-16mm for most of the shots. Also it was my first time using a CPL on my lens.

The sunset shot and the sign image was shot using a Sigma 17-50mm. The sunset shot was really hard to get right since it was also first time I used any Cokin GND filter. Also the amount of clouds seem to decrease near the end of the day.

Thanks,
Peter

Hi Peter,

An elementary rule in photography is to expose for the highlights and develop for the shadows. What does this mean? Do a meter reading for close to the brightest point in the frame and expose for that, fix the rest of the image up in processing.

The easiest way to expose for highlights is to set you camera's exposure meter to Partial Metering or Evaluative Metering (where there is lot's of light behind the subject) and take your shot. Have your camera set up to Highlight Alert and check for over exposed area (the will flash in the LCD screen) or you can look at your histogram (check the web or your instruction manual for this).

If you get more than about 10% over exposure, you are in trouble and need to back the exposure off about one stop (make the exposure darker).

Attached is a quick post process for your consideration.

I have cropped some of the sky and foreground out, added some fill light to the foreground and reduced the brightness of the sky. Though I did this in Photoshop, the software that would have come with your camera would be likely to be able to do all that.

Hope that helps!


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0.24L
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Jun 11, 2012 05:01 |  #7

I think this advice helps a lot of us including me.. Nice work on the editing.

May I know if you actually outline the entire foreground and edit its brightness/contrast?

Sorry that I am such a noob, by metering the brightest point wont it make the foreground under exposed? Appreciate if you can point me in the right way..

wayne_eddy wrote in post #14561665 (external link)
Hi Peter,

An elementary rule in photography is to expose for the highlights and develop for the shadows. What does this mean? Do a meter reading for close to the brightest point in the frame and expose for that, fix the rest of the image up in processing.

The easiest way to expose for highlights is to set you camera's exposure meter to Partial Metering or Evaluative Metering (where there is lot's of light behind the subject) and take your shot. Have your camera set up to Highlight Alert and check for over exposed area (the will flash in the LCD screen) or you can look at your histogram (check the web or your instruction manual for this).

If you get more than about 10% over exposure, you are in trouble and need to back the exposure off about one stop (make the exposure darker).

Attached is a quick post process for your consideration.

I have cropped some of the sky and foreground out, added some fill light to the foreground and reduced the brightness of the sky. Though I did this in Photoshop, the software that would have come with your camera would be likely to be able to do all that.

Hope that helps!


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wayne_eddy
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Jun 11, 2012 05:40 |  #8

Yes, I outlined the entire foreground with a selection tool and then adjusted with a brightness contrast mask. I think I did a levels adjustment to the left before that.

That's right, if you expose for the very bright sunlit sky, you will get underexposed foreground, that's what bracketing and HDR or merging exposures is for.

0.24L wrote in post #14561703 (external link)
I think this advice helps a lot of us including me.. Nice work on the editing.

May I know if you actually outline the entire foreground and edit its brightness/contrast?

Sorry that I am such a noob, by metering the brightest point wont it make the foreground under exposed? Appreciate if you can point me in the right way..


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0.24L
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Jun 11, 2012 10:25 |  #9

Outline with magnetic loop? lol is there a better way to do so? The outline is not exactly accurate..

wayne_eddy wrote in post #14561782 (external link)
Yes, I outlined the entire foreground with a selection tool and then adjusted with a brightness contrast mask. I think I did a levels adjustment to the left before that.

That's right, if you expose for the very bright sunlit sky, you will get underexposed foreground, that's what bracketing and HDR or merging exposures is for.


VOTE FOR YOUR FAVOURITE CANON LENSE, CLICK HERE >>> (external link).
TO VIEW RESULT, CLICK HERE >>> (external link).

  
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PFoto
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Jun 11, 2012 10:37 |  #10

wayne_eddy wrote in post #14561665 (external link)
Hi Peter,

An elementary rule in photography is to expose for the highlights and develop for the shadows. What does this mean? Do a meter reading for close to the brightest point in the frame and expose for that, fix the rest of the image up in processing.

The easiest way to expose for highlights is to set you camera's exposure meter to Partial Metering or Evaluative Metering (where there is lot's of light behind the subject) and take your shot. Have your camera set up to Highlight Alert and check for over exposed area (the will flash in the LCD screen) or you can look at your histogram (check the web or your instruction manual for this).

If you get more than about 10% over exposure, you are in trouble and need to back the exposure off about one stop (make the exposure darker).

Attached is a quick post process for your consideration.

I have cropped some of the sky and foreground out, added some fill light to the foreground and reduced the brightness of the sky. Though I did this in Photoshop, the software that would have come with your camera would be likely to be able to do all that.

Hope that helps!

Thanks for the explanation. Your edit of the picture made it look so much better since you can now actually see the structures of the great wall. I'm curious if this post process procedure can be done in iPhoto or Photoshop Element 10. I just got Element 10 and am still learning how to use it.

Thanks,
Peter




  
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wayne_eddy
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Jun 11, 2012 10:40 |  #11

Well you can use magnetic lassoo or one of the tools in that set if you are using photocopy. . YouTube has some great tutorials on selections and making masks etc. Its work spending some time there just to see how people do different things with ps .

0.24L wrote in post #14562722 (external link)
Outline with magnetic loop? lol is there a better way to do so? The outline is not exactly accurate..


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0.24L
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Jun 11, 2012 21:39 |  #12

Yeap, I am using magnetic lassoo for outlining, just wondering if there is a better way to do it.. The mountain and walls here is not hat difficult, but for trees, leaves or other complication foreground, it is very difficult..

Sorry for crashing in but I think it is kinda related question..

wayne_eddy wrote in post #14562821 (external link)
Well you can use magnetic lassoo or one of the tools in that set if you are using photocopy. . YouTube has some great tutorials on selections and making masks etc. Its work spending some time there just to see how people do different things with ps .


VOTE FOR YOUR FAVOURITE CANON LENSE, CLICK HERE >>> (external link).
TO VIEW RESULT, CLICK HERE >>> (external link).

  
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TPhantom
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Jun 11, 2012 22:25 |  #13

Nice! I really like the second and fourth picture. Really like the second picture especially with the clouds




  
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adilh
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Jun 12, 2012 02:24 |  #14

I vote for the second and fourth... good job! one day I will be able to snap some shots there :)


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PFoto
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Jun 12, 2012 10:32 |  #15

Thanks everyone. If you do go to this location of the great wall, be careful of the price. If you can, travel with a native speaker since the locals will definitely charge more for foreigners.

For example, there are one or two local villagers at each of the big towers selling bottle water, coke, and beer. They sell one bottle of water for 10 yuan, while you can get the same bottle back in Beijing city for 2 yuan. And thats already the local price since both my wife and I are Chinese.

Peter




  
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