Samyang/Rokinon/Vivitar/Pol​ar/Bower/Opteka/Falcon 85mm f/1.4 Aspherical IF

flickr|ModelMayhem|Instagram
EOS R (x2)|EOS RP|Mavic Air|Mavic 2 Zoom
Σ12-24mm II|Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8|40mm f/2.8 STM|50mm f/1.8 STM
100mm f/2.8L IS Macro|Σ150mm f/2.8 Macro OS
Godox AD600|Godox AD-200 (x2)|V860 II (x2)|V350c

5D3, Rokinon @ 1.4

[5D Mark III : Tokina 11-16/2.8 : 100/2.8 Macro USM : 70-200/4L USM : Rokinon 85/1.4 : 580EX II + OC-E3]
FLICKR

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …s/ken-gilbert/7395735218/
_MG_0326-7 by k.a. gilbert, on Flickr

flickr

5dc w/ee-s, rokinon 85mm f/1.4, rokinon 35mm f/1.4, rokinon 8mm f/3.5, sigma 24 f/1.8, canon 35-135 f/3.5-4.5, canon 50mm f/1.8, nikkor s-auto 50mm f/1.4, tokina 11-16 f/2.8, 430ex2, pcb e640, oc-3, st-e2, pixel knight tr332, DiCAPac WPS10, b+w 10 stop nd, hoya hd cpl, kenko ext. tubes, brolly, diy softbox, etc.

kenpham wrote in post #14604579
@Taylor_h: amazing shot at f/1.4. How far is it from your camera and that gate?

Thanks! I believe I was standing about 10-15 feet away; The overall height of the arch is around 10 feet.

[5D Mark III : Tokina 11-16/2.8 : 100/2.8 Macro USM : 70-200/4L USM : Rokinon 85/1.4 : 580EX II + OC-E3]
FLICKR

Does anyone else do a burst of shots while turning the focus ring in an attempt to get a sharp image? I do this and then go back to check which one of the images turned out sharpest and deleting the others. I've noticed that when shooting wide open if I try to focus just by using my eyes (no AF confirm chip or fancy focus screens) I tend to get some images that are just a bit off and the photo turns out useless.

Image hosted by forum (602320) © JiggyNS [SHARE LINK]
THIS IS A LOW QUALITY PREVIEW. Please log in to see the good quality stuff.

Canon 5D classic- Canon 50mm f/1.8 - Rokinon 85mm f/1.4 - Canon 17-40 F/4 L - Speedlite 580EX - Cactus v2

kenpham wrote in post #14620264
I can't take a sharp photo while using viewfinder because I'm a litle bit short-seeing. I see that rotate the small wheel near the eyecup make the object in viewfinder blurer/sharper.

Half-press the shutter button to bring up the exposure info in the bottom of the viewfinder. Turn the dioptic adjustment wheel (next to viewfinder) until the numbers are sharp.

Scott
Operation: Love Reunited
Check out my blog Gear List

JiggyNS wrote in post #14620154
Does anyone else do a burst of shots while turning the focus ring in an attempt to get a sharp image? I do this and then go back to check which one of the images turned out sharpest and deleting the others. I've noticed that when shooting wide open if I try to focus just by using my eyes (no AF confirm chip or fancy focus screens) I tend to get some images that are just a bit off and the photo turns out useless.

unless you have a high precision focusing screen in the camera, the viewfinder is too "slow" to see these large aperture lenses.

in other words, the viewfinder may show the DOF as if the lens is clamped down to f/2.8.

obviously this is less than optimal!

flickr

5dc w/ee-s, rokinon 85mm f/1.4, rokinon 35mm f/1.4, rokinon 8mm f/3.5, sigma 24 f/1.8, canon 35-135 f/3.5-4.5, canon 50mm f/1.8, nikkor s-auto 50mm f/1.4, tokina 11-16 f/2.8, 430ex2, pcb e640, oc-3, st-e2, pixel knight tr332, DiCAPac WPS10, b+w 10 stop nd, hoya hd cpl, kenko ext. tubes, brolly, diy softbox, etc.

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …s/ken-gilbert/7516062570/
_MG_0828-113 by k.a. gilbert, on Flickr

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …s/ken-gilbert/7516090320/
_MG_0835-120 by k.a. gilbert, on Flickr

flickr

5dc w/ee-s, rokinon 85mm f/1.4, rokinon 35mm f/1.4, rokinon 8mm f/3.5, sigma 24 f/1.8, canon 35-135 f/3.5-4.5, canon 50mm f/1.8, nikkor s-auto 50mm f/1.4, tokina 11-16 f/2.8, 430ex2, pcb e640, oc-3, st-e2, pixel knight tr332, DiCAPac WPS10, b+w 10 stop nd, hoya hd cpl, kenko ext. tubes, brolly, diy softbox, etc.