Yeah, out of focus or motion/shake blur will amplify purple fringing.
It's the lenses, not the camera.
Also, do you have filters on your lenses? If so, try without filters (and use a lens hood). Filters often amplify image problems such as this. Especially cheap, uncoated filters!
With high contrast edges, sometimes a bit of fringing is just unavoidable. All you can do is work to minimize it.
Do some tests with your lenses. Often lenses fringe more at larger apertures, especially "faster" lenses.
You are seeing this more because you've gone from a 10MP camera to an 18MP camera. If you are still looking at your images at 100%, that's part of the problem. You are actually looking at the images from the new camera much larger, much more critically than you did with the same magnification on your old camera. On many computer monitors, with 60D 100% is like making a five foot wide print, then viewing it from 12 to 18 inches away. Of course it looks lousy! Go to an art museum and walk up a few inches from an old master's painting and all you will see is brush strokes!
Scale back to something more realistic for general image evaluation... such as 50%.
Some softwares can really help with fringing... even have built in correction profiles for specific lenses.
For example, this shot was a test to see how much the lens would flare... I basically did "everything wrong" on purpose. I was shooting into the sun, underexposing and using a filter on a wide angle lens, on a crop sensor camera.
Among other things, there is some fringing near contrasty edges, especially close to the edge of the frame:
Also a little bit in more central areas of strong contrast...
This was minimized by not using too large an aperture. But, mostly I was testing for flare...
Still, with a little work in Lightroom and Photoshop, I was pleasantly surprised how easily and well it all cleaned up! I used Lightroom to correct much of the fringing and adjust exposure... Retouched out the few flare artifacts, fine tuned exposure, contrast and color saturation:Pigeon Point lighthouse, late afternoon
Tokina 12-24/4 lens at f10 with B+W Kaesemann C-Pol filter. EOS 7D camera at ISO 200, 1/640 shutter speed. Handheld, available light.