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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 23 Jul 2012 (Monday) 17:05
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Need experienced user/techhie help with new camera...

 
richy5497
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Jul 23, 2012 17:05 |  #1

Hi,

I recently bought a EOS 60D, i have noticed on many shots some pretty bad fringing which wasn't there with the 40D i had previously. I'd like some of you guys assistance ij telling me if i should send it to Canon?

I bought it about 6-8 weeks ago from Jessops in Belfast. Noticed the fringing in HDR shots first, but anywhere it seems to have light contrast areas, the fringing appears.

Below i have two 100% crops, both taken with my Tamron 17-50mm F2.8 Lens. they're self explanatory, basically i need to know:
A: Do i have a fault?
B: If not, what do you think might be causing it?
C: Should i send to Canon or just return to Jessops?

Thanks in advance, looking forward to your thoughts :)

IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/gif' | Redirected to error image by FLICKR

No Fringe 40D (external link) by Richy5497 (external link), on Flickr

IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/gif' | Redirected to error image by FLICKR

Fringed 60D (external link) by Richy5497 (external link), on Flickr

http://www.rgbrowne.co​.uk (external link) (Gallery being updated)
===============
Canon EOS40D.
580EX Speedlite, Tamron17-50mmF2.8 VC(LOVELY) , Canon EF50mmF1.8, Tamron 90mmF2.8Macro, Tamron 55-200F4-5.6, Canon EF18-55mmF3.5-5.6, Tamron 10-24mmF3.5-5.6DiII.

  
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Joe ­ Ravenstein
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Jul 23, 2012 17:31 |  #2

IMO you have both focus and fringing issues with both of your samples. Either that or I need to be up longer before viewing images online.


Canon 60D,18-55mm,55-250mm,50mm compact macro, AF ext tubes. Sigma 8-16mm uwa, 18-250mm, 85mm F1.4, 150-500mm

  
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elysium
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Jul 23, 2012 17:39 |  #3

A: Do i have a fault?
Hard to say. These are crops but what does the overall image look like? Are these crops from the centre or corners?

B: If not, what do you think might be causing it?
Suspect the resolution. Higher pixel count from what I have found cause these "imperfections" in lenses to amplify. I have a feeling you stick that lens back on an older model and the results would be different

C: Should i send to Canon or just return to Jessops?
Try another body/equivalent lens to see what happens.


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Saint728
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Jul 23, 2012 17:56 as a reply to  @ post 14758753 |  #4

Your last picture is caused by too slow of a shutter speed. There is nothing wrong with your camera. Bump up the shutter speed from 1/30 sec to something higher like 1/150 sec and you won't have a problem anymore.

Take Care,
Cheers, Patrick


Canon EOS 1Ds Mark III | 17-40mm f/4.0L | 70-200mm f/2.8L USM | 100mm f/2.8L IS Macro | 300mm f/4.0L IS
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p32shooter
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Jul 23, 2012 19:40 as a reply to  @ post 14758753 |  #5

agreed, the fringing seems to be subject movement
bump the iso up


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sega62
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Jul 23, 2012 19:43 |  #6

Is it a new camera? What lens?
Put everything to the original settings




  
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TeamSpeed
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Jul 23, 2012 23:00 |  #7

CA is lens not body... the same amount of CA can now be recorded with 80% more pixels, and if you view past 70-80% it will look larger than it did on the 40d. Resize the image from 5184 to 3888 and see how it compares. ;)

Also, are each of these crops from the same basic area of the frame, ie you don't have one being center of the frame, and the other being near an edge?


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Negativ3
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Jul 23, 2012 23:35 |  #8

Caused by the lens, but you don't tell us which lens, 17-50 f2.8? Lightroom or ACR corrects this well.


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richy5497
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Jul 24, 2012 01:21 as a reply to  @ post 14758753 |  #9

Ok, Thanks :)


http://www.rgbrowne.co​.uk (external link) (Gallery being updated)
===============
Canon EOS40D.
580EX Speedlite, Tamron17-50mmF2.8 VC(LOVELY) , Canon EF50mmF1.8, Tamron 90mmF2.8Macro, Tamron 55-200F4-5.6, Canon EF18-55mmF3.5-5.6, Tamron 10-24mmF3.5-5.6DiII.

  
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John ­ from ­ PA
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Jul 24, 2012 06:59 as a reply to  @ post 14758753 |  #10

As a minimum, for test purposes, get rid of any cheap filter on the lens. Also for subjects like you show, you might give the "cloudy" style a try instead of AWB.




  
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Keyan
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Jul 24, 2012 07:23 |  #11

There is fringe on your first shot too, I can see it although it is not as thick.

You now have many more pixels. When your lens is fringing where the fringe may have only been one or two pixels thick it will now be 4 or 5 at a 100% crop and be much more noticeable. Also using an out of focus subject will amplify the effect as the fringe will also be soft and amplified.

I think your camera is fine as it won't cause CA, only the light coming through the lens and not converging properly on the sensor will cause that.


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Keyan
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Jul 24, 2012 08:33 |  #12

Saint728 wrote in post #14758994 (external link)
Your last picture is caused by too slow of a shutter speed. There is nothing wrong with your camera. Bump up the shutter speed from 1/30 sec to something higher like 1/150 sec and you won't have a problem anymore.

Take Care,
Cheers, Patrick

Ha, I didn't even check the EXIF to check the shutter speed, it just looked out of focus. Good catch.


Cameras: 7D2, S100
Lenses: 17-55 f/2.8 IS USM, 18-135 STM, 24-70 f/4L IS USM, 50 f/1.4 USM,70-300L IS USM
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amfoto1
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Jul 24, 2012 13:38 |  #13

Yeah, out of focus or motion/shake blur will amplify purple fringing.

It's the lenses, not the camera.

Also, do you have filters on your lenses? If so, try without filters (and use a lens hood). Filters often amplify image problems such as this. Especially cheap, uncoated filters!

With high contrast edges, sometimes a bit of fringing is just unavoidable. All you can do is work to minimize it.

Do some tests with your lenses. Often lenses fringe more at larger apertures, especially "faster" lenses.

You are seeing this more because you've gone from a 10MP camera to an 18MP camera. If you are still looking at your images at 100%, that's part of the problem. You are actually looking at the images from the new camera much larger, much more critically than you did with the same magnification on your old camera. On many computer monitors, with 60D 100% is like making a five foot wide print, then viewing it from 12 to 18 inches away. Of course it looks lousy! Go to an art museum and walk up a few inches from an old master's painting and all you will see is brush strokes!

Scale back to something more realistic for general image evaluation... such as 50%.

Some softwares can really help with fringing... even have built in correction profiles for specific lenses.

For example, this shot was a test to see how much the lens would flare... I basically did "everything wrong" on purpose. I was shooting into the sun, underexposing and using a filter on a wide angle lens, on a crop sensor camera.

IMAGE: http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6047/6337730854_9e4cfbd008_b.jpg

Among other things, there is some fringing near contrasty edges, especially close to the edge of the frame:

IMAGE: http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6093/6337730136_c55b2757dc_z.jpg

Also a little bit in more central areas of strong contrast...

IMAGE: http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6041/6337730406_98037e02de_z.jpg

This was minimized by not using too large an aperture. But, mostly I was testing for flare...

IMAGE: http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6105/6337729810_216983e9b0_z.jpg

Still, with a little work in Lightroom and Photoshop, I was pleasantly surprised how easily and well it all cleaned up! I used Lightroom to correct much of the fringing and adjust exposure... Retouched out the few flare artifacts, fine tuned exposure, contrast and color saturation:

IMAGE: http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6042/6336978529_77fc4f5710_b.jpg
Pigeon Point lighthouse, late afternoon
Tokina 12-24/4 lens at f10 with B+W Kaesemann C-Pol filter. EOS 7D camera at ISO 200, 1/640 shutter speed. Handheld, available light.

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