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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Nature & Landscapes Talk 
Thread started 12 Sep 2011 (Monday) 19:10
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Panorama - camera alignment question

 
C ­ Scott ­ IV
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Sep 12, 2011 19:10 |  #1

Reading the panorama threads it seems there should be a 1/3 overlap but there doesn't seem too much said about how to achieve that. My Gitzo tripod is an older model with a three way head and has a scale for degrees of rotation. Do you calculate the field of view for the focal length and use the scale accordingly or do you just eyeball it in the viewfinder/live view?

Wish there was a panorama app for the 7D like some of the iPhone apps.


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krb
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Sep 12, 2011 19:15 |  #2

I just eyeball it.


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MCAsan
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Sep 12, 2011 22:11 as a reply to  @ krb's post |  #3

Yep, eyeball it. You can see where on frame ends. So just rotate the ballhead on its pano ring enough to put that edge around 1/3 to 1/2 in the next frame.

Far more important is to get the lens/camera rotating on the nodal point to avoid parallax problems.




  
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Sep 13, 2011 10:36 |  #4

I use the scale markings.

I'll do a test sequence of 2 shots to determine the range on the scale to move.

so if the scale has small lines then a large one to signify 10* or whatever then I'll use the small lines and count 6-8 or however many I need to get a good overlap.


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C ­ Scott ­ IV
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Sep 15, 2011 19:47 |  #5

Thanks for the feedback. MCAsan, what would the nodal point be? Tripod foot on the lens or on the camera?


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MCAsan
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Sep 15, 2011 21:26 as a reply to  @ C Scott IV's post |  #6

The nodal point is where the incoming light flips and goes upsidedown or inverts. That is the point you want over the pivot point to stop parallax view problems. The nodal point of the lens and body combo should be above the pivot point...which is usually the center of the of the tripod plate and ballhead. Naturally you first level the tripod, then level the ballhead and camera body. Some plates have a spirit level for that purpose. If not, put a dual spirit level in flash hot shoe.

http://www.photoshop-tutorials-plus.com/nodal-point.html (external link)




  
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Sep 16, 2011 11:59 |  #7

Does this actually matter I'm wondering? I've done several panoramas without following any real rules, just as long as part of the previous frame is in the shot photoshop has managed to stitch them just fine without imperfections.


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krb
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Sep 16, 2011 12:44 |  #8

Sirrith wrote in post #13113610 (external link)
Does this actually matter I'm wondering? I've done several panoramas without following any real rules, just as long as part of the previous frame is in the shot photoshop has managed to stitch them just fine without imperfections.

The rule about having pano shots overlap by 1/3 is about the same as the rule of thirds for composition. Generally a good idea but there's no reason to get carried away with it.


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C ­ Scott ­ IV
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Sep 17, 2011 09:21 |  #9

MCAsan, thanks for the link.


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Sep 18, 2011 13:10 as a reply to  @ C Scott IV's post |  #10

never tried the overlap...just took 3 shots on tripod and used software to connect:

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Sep 26, 2011 23:42 as a reply to  @ jimmy_racoon's post |  #11

Having experienced a couple annoying "issues" with panoramas recently, I can comment on some possibilities..:)

1. Assuming a horizontal pano, make the vertical dimension of the originals MUCH bigger than you think you need - it only takes one that is too low/high to screw it up royally.
2. Take off the CPL filter unless you are making a fairly narrow pano - yes they are wonderful, but they change effect depending on the direction relative to the sun and the variations of light and dark will make it very tough to equalize later.
3. Eyeball overlap is fine - I generally have my eye pick out a point at about the 2/3 point, then put it on the edge for the nest one. If you have the time, once you get to one end, take two and go back the other way - you may just love yourself later for it..:D
4. MANUAL MODE (oh, the pain...)


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C ­ Scott ­ IV
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Sep 27, 2011 19:50 |  #12

Good info. Thanks


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esanders101
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Aug 19, 2012 00:01 |  #13

Hartley wrote in post #13169006 (external link)
Having experienced a couple annoying "issues" with panoramas recently, I can comment on some possibilities..:)

1. Assuming a horizontal pano, make the vertical dimension of the originals MUCH bigger than you think you need - it only takes one that is too low/high to screw it up royally.
2. Take off the CPL filter unless you are making a fairly narrow pano - yes they are wonderful, but they change effect depending on the direction relative to the sun and the variations of light and dark will make it very tough to equalize later.
3. Eyeball overlap is fine - I generally have my eye pick out a point at about the 2/3 point, then put it on the edge for the nest one. If you have the time, once you get to one end, take two and go back the other way - you may just love yourself later for it..:D
4. MANUAL MODE (oh, the pain...)


I am interested in a vertical pano, any tips on how to edit that in CS5? if photomerge can be used, or how to manually do it?
thanks




  
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Aug 20, 2012 10:51 as a reply to  @ esanders101's post |  #14

FYI, you guys should be using 2/3 overlap, not 1/3.

1. You use only the sharpest area of the lens.
2. You can botch one shot and still have 1/3 overlap on the other two beside it.
3. You eliminate extreme corner light falloff when it is present.
4. You lose less of your angle of view due to the curvature of the lens. Less wavy borders.

When pressed for time, go to 1/2 or 1/3, but 2/3 is ideal.


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Glenn ­ NK
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Aug 20, 2012 22:51 |  #15

The nodal point (sometimes called optical center or entrance pupil) of the lens should be over the pivot point of the ballhead, but the nodal point is rarely at the centre of the tripod plate or the rotation point of the head.

Although there is some considerable advertising in the following, it has some good information (I have no RRS gear, and have no connections whatsoever to RRS).

http://reallyrightstuf​f.com/WebsiteInfo.aspx​?fc=108 (external link)

Another possible problem is with lenses that exhibit a fair bit of Barrel Distortion or Pincushion Distortion - merging the left side and right side of an image with lenses like this will cause problems - the distortion on the left side will be opposite (or a mirror image of) to the distortion on the right side, in effect doubling the distortion and making seamless stitching more difficult.

As noted above (post # 11) avoid the use of CPL's. Also noted by Hartley is to use manual - good point. The camera' meter will register differently at different angles. I like Hartley's idea of taking images going back the other way.

Glenn


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Panorama - camera alignment question
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