Here is a prime example, the more stable part of the bike is in focus (well sort of) but the parts that are moving more are clearly not. It was shot at 1/25 sec
MaDProFF Goldmember ![]() 4,366 posts Likes: 1 Joined May 2007 Location: East Sussex, UK More info | Sep 02, 2012 18:43 | #1846 Here is a prime example, the more stable part of the bike is in focus (well sort of) but the parts that are moving more are clearly not. It was shot at 1/25 sec Photographic Images on Brett Butler
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R32Big_boy Member ![]() 69 posts Joined Apr 2008 More info | Sep 02, 2012 18:50 | #1847 [QUOTE=PUREVIL;14939530] I noticed parts would be sharp, while other parts of the car wouldnt be.... what would cause that? 2011-12 CAMS accredited photographer.
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R32Big_boy Member ![]() 69 posts Joined Apr 2008 More info | Sep 02, 2012 18:58 | #1848 madproff that's more due to the distance from the camera of each part of the bike being slightly different from for AF point distance from the camera, and not really due to the bikes suspension as the most stable part of the bike is actually the main body of the bike. There are a few diagrams that do a good job of explaining it, I'll see if I can find any. 2011-12 CAMS accredited photographer.
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PUREVIL Senior Member ![]() 752 posts Joined Jun 2008 Location: Minot ND / Las Vegas NV More info | Sep 02, 2012 19:03 | #1849 I think i was shooting around 1/100 plus or minus more or less. I'll keep trying. Thanks! 1DX |1Ds MKIII | 7D | 40D | 10-22mm f/3.5 | 50mm f/1.2L | 50mm f/1.4 | 100mm macro f/2.8 | 17-55mm f/2.8 | 16-35mm f/2.8L | 24-70mm f/2.8L | 70-200mm f/2.8L | (3) 580EXII | Lots Of Other Canon Gear And Accessories.
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R32Big_boy Member ![]() 69 posts Joined Apr 2008 More info | Sep 02, 2012 19:09 | #1850 PUREVIL wrote in post #14939628 ![]() I think i was shooting around 1/100 plus or minus more or less. I'll keep trying. Thanks! Thats the key, see what works and what doesn't and go from there. 2011-12 CAMS accredited photographer.
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Stickman Goldmember ![]() 1,964 posts Likes: 2 Joined Nov 2006 More info | Sep 02, 2012 19:14 | #1851 elrey2375 wrote in post #14937043 ![]() So, basically, it's a tease. You can now supposedly 'get' the shot easier, but the resulting shot won't be any different than before. Help me understand; why do I want this shot then? If you have to fight that hard to understand why the 1DX is better, you don't need it. Enjoy what you have and lounge about in threads related to your own camera, don't give it a second thought. Stick
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Stickman Goldmember ![]() 1,964 posts Likes: 2 Joined Nov 2006 More info | Sep 02, 2012 19:14 | #1852 R32Big_boy wrote in post #14939649 ![]() Thats the key, see what works and what doesn't and go from there. Spring just hit here, and the tree's and flowers didn't waste any time. ![]() Very nice. Stick
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PaulTopol Member 89 posts Joined Jan 2004 Location: Melbourne, Australia More info | Sep 02, 2012 19:47 | #1853 With the great ISO do I now throw away my flash guns? This is unbelievable compared to 1DMk2. 400 was a stretch. NOW NO restriction. WOW. Just gotta relearn how to focus using a black spot instead of a red spot. 1DX, 1d mk2, 24-70 2.8, 17-40L, 70-200 2.8, 50mm 1.4, 100-400, 28-135, 580ex2 and other odd lights including Elinchrom 1200 and 600. Very Lucky!
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Scuff Senior Member ![]() More info | Sep 03, 2012 00:34 | #1854 PaulTopol wrote in post #14939779 ![]() With the great ISO do I now throw away my flash guns? This is unbelievable compared to 1DMk2. 400 was a stretch. NOW NO restriction. WOW. Just gotta relearn how to focus using a black spot instead of a red spot. Paul Noooooo. don't throw away your flash! Scuff
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Ball4 Senior Member 352 posts Joined Feb 2008 Location: SoCal More info | Sep 03, 2012 02:10 | #1855 Scuff wrote in post #14940553 ![]() Noooooo. don't throw away your flash! Sunset and Standing Stones - 1Dx and 24mm TS-e II - manual exposure with 600 ex-rt flash triggered with the on camera St-e3 RT. ![]() looks great!
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MaDProFF Goldmember ![]() 4,366 posts Likes: 1 Joined May 2007 Location: East Sussex, UK More info | Sep 03, 2012 03:29 | #1856 Always a need for flash sometimes, great images Scuff Photographic Images on Brett Butler
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PUREVIL Senior Member ![]() 752 posts Joined Jun 2008 Location: Minot ND / Las Vegas NV More info | Sep 03, 2012 03:57 | #1857 Can you guys give me some help here? When i take night photos the street light really make the images yellow.... i tired turning down the saturation on the yellows but then it makes it look like an old time photo.... if I adjust the wb, then the whites turn blue. Is there a way to level out the yellow and still maintain the white/blues? Or do I just have to strobes/flashes? Im using LR4... and 50 1.2L is not my ideal vehicle lens... i just happen to have it tonight... I was testing the 50 in my bar to see how it worked under those lights. Thanks!!!
1DX |1Ds MKIII | 7D | 40D | 10-22mm f/3.5 | 50mm f/1.2L | 50mm f/1.4 | 100mm macro f/2.8 | 17-55mm f/2.8 | 16-35mm f/2.8L | 24-70mm f/2.8L | 70-200mm f/2.8L | (3) 580EXII | Lots Of Other Canon Gear And Accessories.
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GOA510 Senior Member 345 posts Joined Mar 2011 Location: Tracy, CA More info | Sep 03, 2012 04:15 | #1858 PUREVIL wrote in post #14940903 ![]() Can you guys give me some help here? When i take night photos the street light really make the images yellow.... i tired turning down the saturation on the yellows but then it makes it look like an old time photo.... if I adjust the wb, then the whites turn blue. Is there a way to level out the yellow and still maintain the white/blues? Or do I just have to strobes/flashes? Im using LR4... and 50 1.2L is not my ideal vehicle lens... i just happen to have it tonight... I was testing the 50 in my bar to see how it worked under those lights. Thanks!!! ![]() Im not too familiar with LR, but in PS there's warming/cooling filters where you can adjust how strong they are and mask out areas you don't want affected by the filter. Also, if your shooting RAW in Camera Raw there is a WB slider that allows you to really get the exact (or really close) WB that you want. With the WB adjustment in Camera Raw, you should be able to level out the street light yellows without losing too much the white/blue's in the trucks lights but what could also happen, is that you'll get a whiter WB for the trucks lights that you may like more than the current white/blue while correcting the street lights yellow. I hope any of that makes sense [1D Mark III][5D Mark II][15 2.8 Fisheye][17-40 F4L][24-70L][85 1.2L][70-200 F2.8L IS][300 F2.8L]
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PUREVIL Senior Member ![]() 752 posts Joined Jun 2008 Location: Minot ND / Las Vegas NV More info | Sep 03, 2012 04:27 | #1859 GOA510 wrote in post #14940922 ![]() Im not too familiar with LR, but in PS there's warming/cooling filters where you can adjust how strong they are and mask out areas you don't want affected by the filter. Also, if your shooting RAW in Camera Raw there is a WB slider that allows you to really get the exact (or really close) WB that you want. With the WB adjustment in Camera Raw, you should be able to level out the street light yellows without losing too much the white/blue's in the trucks lights but what could also happen, is that you'll get a whiter WB for the trucks lights that you may like more than the current white/blue while correcting the street lights yellow. I hope any of that makes sense ![]() I think I get what you're saying. Do you happen to know what that wb slider is called so I can look it up in the manual? I shoot only raw so I'd like to try that out. I also have photoshop cs5 and cs6 at work so maybe I'll try that too. Thanks 1DX |1Ds MKIII | 7D | 40D | 10-22mm f/3.5 | 50mm f/1.2L | 50mm f/1.4 | 100mm macro f/2.8 | 17-55mm f/2.8 | 16-35mm f/2.8L | 24-70mm f/2.8L | 70-200mm f/2.8L | (3) 580EXII | Lots Of Other Canon Gear And Accessories.
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MaDProFF Goldmember ![]() 4,366 posts Likes: 1 Joined May 2007 Location: East Sussex, UK More info | Sep 03, 2012 04:41 | #1860 if you shoot in Raw, adjust WB in ACR before it gets imported to PS, also you can adjust the colours in ACR Photographic Images on Brett Butler
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