1DX owners unite! Discuss and post photos!

Here is a prime example, the more stable part of the bike is in focus (well sort of) but the parts that are moving more are clearly not. It was shot at 1/25 sec

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[QUOTE=PUREVIL;1493953​0] I noticed parts would be sharp, while other parts of the car wouldnt be.... what would cause that?

most of the time when one part of the car is sharp (ie the front of a car) whilst another section is blurry ( ie the back of the car) it is because the shutter speed your using is a little low to get the entire car sharp if the car is moving in a direction other than perpendicular to you. What is happening is the front end is moving a different distance relative to the back end. A lower shutter speed will pick up on this and make the section of the car where your AF point is tracking sharp, whilst other parts of the car will be blurry. If your trying to get the entire car sharp, bump up the shutter speed until you get the result your after.

madproff that's more due to the distance from the camera of each part of the bike being slightly different from for AF point distance from the camera, and not really due to the bikes suspension as the most stable part of the bike is actually the main body of the bike. There are a few diagrams that do a good job of explaining it, I'll see if I can find any.

I think i was shooting around 1/100 plus or minus more or less. I'll keep trying. Thanks!

PUREVIL wrote in post #14939628
I think i was shooting around 1/100 plus or minus more or less. I'll keep trying. Thanks!

Thats the key, see what works and what doesn't and go from there.

Spring just hit here, and the tree's and flowers didn't waste any time.

elrey2375 wrote in post #14937043
So, basically, it's a tease. You can now supposedly 'get' the shot easier, but the resulting shot won't be any different than before. Help me understand; why do I want this shot then?

If you have to fight that hard to understand why the 1DX is better, you don't need it. Enjoy what you have and lounge about in threads related to your own camera, don't give it a second thought.

R32Big_boy wrote in post #14939649
Thats the key, see what works and what doesn't and go from there.

Spring just hit here, and the tree's and flowers didn't waste any time.

Very nice.

With the great ISO do I now throw away my flash guns? This is unbelievable compared to 1DMk2. 400 was a stretch. NOW NO restriction. WOW. Just gotta relearn how to focus using a black spot instead of a red spot.
Paul

PaulTopol wrote in post #14939779
With the great ISO do I now throw away my flash guns? This is unbelievable compared to 1DMk2. 400 was a stretch. NOW NO restriction. WOW. Just gotta relearn how to focus using a black spot instead of a red spot.
Paul

Noooooo. don't throw away your flash!

Sunset and Standing Stones - 1Dx and 24mm TS-e II - manual exposure with 600 ex-rt flash triggered with the on camera St-e3 RT.

Scuff wrote in post #14940553
Noooooo. don't throw away your flash!

Sunset and Standing Stones - 1Dx and 24mm TS-e II - manual exposure with 600 ex-rt flash triggered with the on camera St-e3 RT.

looks great!

Always a need for flash sometimes, great images Scuff

Can you guys give me some help here? When i take night photos the street light really make the images yellow.... i tired turning down the saturation on the yellows but then it makes it look like an old time photo.... if I adjust the wb, then the whites turn blue. Is there a way to level out the yellow and still maintain the white/blues? Or do I just have to strobes/flashes? Im using LR4... and 50 1.2L is not my ideal vehicle lens... i just happen to have it tonight... I was testing the 50 in my bar to see how it worked under those lights. Thanks!!!

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PUREVIL wrote in post #14940903
Can you guys give me some help here? When i take night photos the street light really make the images yellow.... i tired turning down the saturation on the yellows but then it makes it look like an old time photo.... if I adjust the wb, then the whites turn blue. Is there a way to level out the yellow and still maintain the white/blues? Or do I just have to strobes/flashes? Im using LR4... and 50 1.2L is not my ideal vehicle lens... i just happen to have it tonight... I was testing the 50 in my bar to see how it worked under those lights. Thanks!!!

Im not too familiar with LR, but in PS there's warming/cooling filters where you can adjust how strong they are and mask out areas you don't want affected by the filter. Also, if your shooting RAW in Camera Raw there is a WB slider that allows you to really get the exact (or really close) WB that you want. With the WB adjustment in Camera Raw, you should be able to level out the street light yellows without losing too much the white/blue's in the trucks lights but what could also happen, is that you'll get a whiter WB for the trucks lights that you may like more than the current white/blue while correcting the street lights yellow. I hope any of that makes sense

GOA510 wrote in post #14940922
Im not too familiar with LR, but in PS there's warming/cooling filters where you can adjust how strong they are and mask out areas you don't want affected by the filter. Also, if your shooting RAW in Camera Raw there is a WB slider that allows you to really get the exact (or really close) WB that you want. With the WB adjustment in Camera Raw, you should be able to level out the street light yellows without losing too much the white/blue's in the trucks lights but what could also happen, is that you'll get a whiter WB for the trucks lights that you may like more than the current white/blue while correcting the street lights yellow. I hope any of that makes sense

I think I get what you're saying. Do you happen to know what that wb slider is called so I can look it up in the manual? I shoot only raw so I'd like to try that out. I also have photoshop cs5 and cs6 at work so maybe I'll try that too. Thanks

if you shoot in Raw, adjust WB in ACR before it gets imported to PS, also you can adjust the colours in ACR