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Thread started 28 Feb 2006 (Tuesday) 19:47
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Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM

 
mehmetdmc
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Sep 01, 2012 11:58 |  #5911

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Sep 02, 2012 16:53 as a reply to  @ post 1418217 |  #5912

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Sep 02, 2012 22:59 |  #5913

Can anybody post up some examples of shallow DOF and bokeh at f/4? Would also like to see f/4 at MFD.


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Sep 03, 2012 00:40 |  #5914

mannetti21 wrote in post #14940327 (external link)
Can anybody post up some examples of shallow DOF and bokeh at f/4? Would also like to see f/4 at MFD.


This is at 105mm F4 at about 2 feet away

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Sep 03, 2012 04:56 |  #5915

mannetti21 wrote in post #14940327 (external link)
Can anybody post up some examples of shallow DOF and bokeh at f/4? Would also like to see f/4 at MFD.

This is f/4 taken about 6-10 feet away

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vega_0502
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Sep 03, 2012 09:12 |  #5916

IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/gif' | Redirected to error image by FLICKR


First photo upload on the site. This photo was shot wide open, and I'm loving the result so far



  
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DanAnCan
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Sep 03, 2012 10:54 |  #5917

My first Star Trail..
F4 30sec ISO160
133 Images

I actually shot 200, but the front element got fogged up... anyone know how to fix that ????

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Madweasel
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Sep 03, 2012 11:21 |  #5918

DanAnCan wrote in post #14941891 (external link)
I actually shot 200, but the front element got fogged up... anyone know how to fix that ????

Did you have the hood on? If not, that would help a bit. Otherwise you'd need a low power heater element around the outside of the lens. The condensation is caused when the glass is cooler than the air, which at night is often close to saturation point. The drop in temperature on contact with the glass makes water condense out of the air. Warming the lens slightly would prevent it. Otherwise choose a night or location where humidity is lower.


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DanAnCan
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Sep 03, 2012 11:54 |  #5919

Madweasel wrote in post #14942030 (external link)
Did you have the hood on? If not, that would help a bit. Otherwise you'd need a low power heater element around the outside of the lens. The condensation is caused when the glass is cooler than the air, which at night is often close to saturation point. The drop in temperature on contact with the glass makes water condense out of the air. Warming the lens slightly would prevent it. Otherwise choose a night or location where humidity is lower.

Thanks for the tip, I was not using the hood.. I'll figure something out to keep the glass warm

I'm going camping at the end of the month, so I wanted to have a crack at this beforehand.. Going to be much darker up there..


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astrobrian
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Sep 03, 2012 13:05 |  #5920

DanAnCan wrote in post #14941891 (external link)
My first Star Trail..
F4 30sec ISO160
133 Images
QUOTED IMAGE

What program were you using to put the images together?


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DanAnCan
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Sep 03, 2012 13:14 |  #5921

astrobrian wrote in post #14942398 (external link)
What program were you using to put the images together?


First I Tweaked in CS6, then Batch Converted the RAW photos to TIFF, then used the following:

http://startrails.de/h​tml/software.html (external link)

and then tweaked some more :)

Startrails doesn't support RAW :( and I was not willing to Shoot in JPEG..
This is the Result of about 2-3 Hours of processing


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Sep 03, 2012 14:44 as a reply to  @ DanAnCan's post |  #5922

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Sep 03, 2012 15:05 |  #5923

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Sep 03, 2012 19:13 |  #5924

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Fabrian
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Sep 03, 2012 21:48 |  #5925

DanAnCan wrote in post #14941891 (external link)
My first Star Trail..
F4 30sec ISO160
133 Images

I actually shot 200, but the front element got fogged up... anyone know how to fix that ????

QUOTED IMAGE

The best way to deal with condensation is to put your camera and lens in a large ziplock bag inside the house. Make sure it's completely sealed, then leave it in the environment you intend to shoot in for at least a half an hour. Once the temperature of the gear in the ziplock matches the temperature of the environment, you can remove the gear from the bag.

What essentially happens here is anytime you take an object into a warmer, more humid environment, that energy must balance. Hot alway moves towards cold, or in other words, energy always moves towards lack of energy (hot being energy and cold being lack of energy). Classic example is the cold soda can on a hot day. Energy looks to balance, so it moves into the colder object. Energy can pass through solid material, but the moisture can't, so this is why water condenses on the can. By putting your gear in the ziplock, the environmental energy can pass through the bag and the gear's temp will balance, but the water in the air cannot pass through the bag. As long as you've left the bag outside long enough, you'll have a dry camera and lens. Also, if the glass isn't completely clean, it will further exaggerate the fogging as particles will hold moisture.

Make sense?


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