Official T4i Thread

I'm helping a friend get his first entry level DSLR and it seems like the T4i has a lot to offer. I had a t2i and I thought it was a good beginner's camera that taught me the basics. This however with the 9 point AF all cross-type focus points and digic 5 makes it a good buy. Anybody here have a low light sample shot? Preferably ISO 6400 if possible. I just want to see how well it handles high ISO. Thanks and keep up the good work fellas.

I posted a couple of tests shots back a couple of pages, look for a Domke photo vest pocket. That and the catalogs were at ISO 6400.

I tried to see if I had a real world example, but this is all I have at 6400. The whole unedited frame and an edited crop (with flaws from the stm lens)

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advaitin wrote in post #15060384
I posted a couple of tests shots back a couple of pages, look for a Domke photo vest pocket. That and the catalogs were at ISO 6400.

I tried to see if I had a real world example, but this is all I have at 6400. The whole unedited frame and an edited crop (with flaws from the stm lens)

The noise is quite low (as expected). ISO 6400 is the new frontier.

I don't know whether Canon has published already curves for correcting CA (the flaws). If/when they do, it works like magic. I tried to remove most of it by manual CA correction in GIMP and the results are pretty much acceptable... I would post it if you had 'Image editing OK' under your avatar.

EDIT: From a second look, the CA is not evident in your unedited photo! Rather strange...

In my editing for color temp, I may have created the CA. It was a quick and dirty looking for an example. I shot a bunch of low light stuff that day on a 1DIV and 5DIII--and only that on the T4i, plus movies. Go ahead and post your edit. I'm just a non-conformist.

I like that. I am unfamiliar with darktable or Canon Curves. . I've been using something called ACDSee pro.

Canon publishes the curves (they are data files) and PostProcessing program makers incorporate them to correct lens problems (distortion. aberration) with the software.

Darktable is a Linux program, similar to Lightroom. I can't remember whether they have an Apple variant. Definitely no Windows.

Very nice shots Shake N Vac. I was able to pull a little more detail out of the first one, a higher resolution one is also available too.

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BigLobowski wrote in post #15056887
Thanks so much for looking into this and posting your findings! Look forward to hearing how things go after the weekend. Cheers.

The RC-6 works great from the front. I have an eyepiece extender on my T4i that is probably interfering a bit with the signal for the back sensor because it's a pain to get it to fire from behind the camera (unless you have an angle ABOVE the camera) if there ANY kinda of light hitting the back of the camera. Here's one of my many different exposures last night of the moon:

IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING! HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/gif' | Redirected to error image by FLICKR

IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING! HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/gif' | Redirected to error image by FLICKR

diableri wrote in post #15062310
The RC-6 works great from the front. I have an eyepiece extender on my T4i that is probably interfering a bit with the signal for the back sensor because it's a pain to get it to fire from behind the camera (unless you have an angle ABOVE the camera) if there ANY kinda of light hitting the back of the camera. Here's one of my many different exposures last night of the moon:

HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/gif' | Redirected to error image by FLICKR

IMG_0266.jpg by diableri, on Flickr

Here is what was behind me and facing the back of the camera:

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IMG_0274.jpg by diableri, on Flickr

Please forgive the exposure, I just swung around, guessed and fired. Those lights may not seem bright, but if I wasn't casting a shadow on the LCD, the remote wouldn't fire it. From the front, it was fine. I'll be buying a wired remote and looking for one with a longer than three foot cable personally.

EDIT: BTW, anyone know how to get rid of that copyright silliness in LR? My friend did that on install and I can't figure out how to get rid of it.

Hi, I think you can clear a checkbox in the file export menu -
File
Export...
Scroll down to Watermark and uncheck Watermark

My guess is that'll get rid of the visible copyright, but the meta-data copyright info should remain intact.

By the way, nice shot of the moon... nifty 250?

Steve

swhiggins wrote in post #15062366
Hi, I think you can clear a checkbox in the file export menu -
File
Export...
Scroll down to Watermark and uncheck Watermark

My guess is that'll get rid of the visible copyright, but the meta-data copyright info should remain intact.

By the way, nice shot of the moon... nifty 250?

Steve

Yep, that thing was an absolute steel for the money. I'm now of the opinion that it should probably be owned by anyone with a canon just in case you want a lens to submerge in water someday. It's incredible at that price.

Thank you so much for the help with LR. I'll give that a try on my next upload to flickr.

diableri wrote in post #15057468
I think you're getting there. Monopod and a bit faster/longer lens to allow for faster shutter/less crop and I think that last shot would pretty fantastic. It's a good shot right now but the OOF is there from the crop/ISO obviously. Given handheld and crop I think it's pretty good though.

Great composition and series timing between the frames!

The real question I have, is do you have the shot of him celebrating after he got up?

EDIT: And isn't rude of these players to face away from you!?

Lol, very rude! In my haste to check to see if I got any of the sequence properly, I didn't think to wait for the celebration shot - lesson learned! Not quite as bad however as just prior to this I had turned my back to the field for just a moment to get a shot of the team mascot posing right beside me, only to turn back to the field and to my horror, see our star receiver leaping mid-air not 50 feet from me, making an amazing end zone catch... Doh!! - even bigger lesson learned!
The evening field shots definitely has me re-thinking the extra expense of the 70-200 f/2.8L USM however. ill be looking into it tomorrow.

A few shots from this weekend. Some 18-135 some 70-200:

A few more:

Help,
It's time for an upgrade and I'm not sure which to get. My budget is $1200 and I am torn between the T4i w/ the 18 - 135 or the 60D w/ the 18-135 . I have read the comparisons and both have their advantages and disadvantages. Video is a factor as my daughters wedding is coming up. I never see myself moving up to full frame or upgrading for the life of this camera. I have a Rebel xs that I will keep as a second body that my wife can use.
Any thoughts on which way to go would be appreciated.