Girls 12-14 Soccer, tie game. C&C Welcome

Worked on getting low after some tips last game. Got some great shots, girls really played hard this week!

Score was tied 2-2 at the conclusion of the game. As it wasn't a championship there was no playoff.

1. Thow in

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Why oh whyyyyy shutter priority? These photos should be much sharper for that lens, are you single point focus in AI servo?

They do appear soft and look a bit overexposed. Best bet would be to shoot in manual. Meter of the grass for a base line and adjust from there. Keep your shutter speed at 1000 and use as shallow depth of field as you have. Adjust your ISO as needed. With the light you had you should be able to keep ISO at 100 and use a shutter speed of 1000 easily. Keep at it and it will come together.

why at f/8?

CM, these are good shots.

What the prior posters are suggesting is that you should shoot at the lowest fstop available for your lens. That way you can blur more of the background (e.g., the parents sitting in chairs). You won't lose them entirely, but the blurrier the better, so they don't distract from the players. Also, in bright sunlight, you might as well up the shutter speed to at least 1/1000, to freeze the ball. Finally, use AV at the lowest fstop or, if you are comfortable, manual, to make sure you get the best exposure.

Again, these are great shots for someone who hasn't shot a lot of soccer.

Nicely put Dankopp. Useful feedback.

very nice set, like that spectator body language in #3

I agree with the other posters, they look overexposed and increase your shutter speed to get sharper pics

Good timing on several, and I agree about shooting wide open, in general.

I'd add that shooting from the ground (as in #1) makes for a nicer composition unless you have a horrible background that isn't far away.

stock28 wrote in post #15063632
They do appear soft and look a bit overexposed. Best bet would be to shoot in manual. Meter of the grass for a base line and adjust from there. Keep your shutter speed at 1000 and use as shallow depth of field as you have. Adjust your ISO as needed. With the light you had you should be able to keep ISO at 100 and use a shutter speed of 1000 easily. Keep at it and it will come together.

I disagree, not saying your wrong but does not work for me if I put the camera in Manual mode I'm either going to spend most of your time adjusting to light changes or have a lot of blown out or under exposed pictures. if you have a lot of light put the camera in AV it allows you to adjust the f/stop, and keeps the shutter speed at the correct setting. if your light is not great go with tv and set your shutter to at least 1000. the hardest thing for me to get down was following the subject with the little dot on the subject move it off and well blurry picture. it takes practice. another thing to remember the tighter the shot the better they look. try and keep the cropping down to no more then 3. If the subject is running toward you I find it is best to take a quick burst and then refocus I don't know about the 7D 50D mark III or the 1D but my 50 Does not track well with the player running at me they tend to run out of focus before it gets to frame three. if your using a 70-200 lens or some thing like it I find it is best to set the focus range on 3m so it is not trying to focus the length.

pbisfun wrote in post #15333094
I disagree, not saying your wrong but does not work for me if I put the camera in Manual mode I'm either going to spend most of your time adjusting to light changes or have a lot of blown out or under exposed pictures. if you have a lot of light put the camera in AV it allows you to adjust the f/stop, and keeps the shutter speed at the correct setting. if your light is not great go with tv and set your shutter to at least 1000. the hardest thing for me to get down was following the subject with the little dot on the subject move it off and well blurry picture. it takes practice. another thing to remember the tighter the shot the better they look. try and keep the cropping down to no more then 3. If the subject is running toward you I find it is best to take a quick burst and then refocus I don't know about the 7D 50D mark III or the 1D but my 50 Does not track well with the player running at me they tend to run out of focus before it gets to frame three. if your using a 70-200 lens or some thing like it I find it is best to set the focus range on 3m so it is not trying to focus the length.

FWIW, with the 7D, 5D3, and 1D3/4/X, there are options that allow the camera to track the subject off of the primary focus point and it will choose different focus points along the way. It's pretty impressive.

I don't always use such a high shutter speed (1000). Sometimes by lowering it a little you can have the ball blurred a little which simulates movement in the picture while the players are still sharp. Similar to a race car that has the spinning wheels blurred and the car itself is sharp. But that is just my style.

Interesting thread revival from a few months ago. I hope these comments are descriptive enough to see what is required to improve. You can certainly pick out some of the action when there typically isn't much at this level.
#1 is OOF, see the grass? It stops being sharp before the thrower's feet. OOF
#2 nice action but you can see the motion blur in the foot. I agree that sometimes this is desired but if that is blurry, chances are high that blur exists elsewhere so 1/800 should be too low for a standard speed.
#3 here you see the effects of f8. The woman in the chair is just as in focus as the players. Of course the action is right near the touch line so f4 (wide open for your combo) would have helped a bit.
#4 is a nice shot but you see the slight over exposure, cool white balance, and high contrast affecting all.
#5 needed to be a bit wider than 145mm and here a lower shooting position like a beach chair or ground would really look great when the action comes close like this.
#6 really is a nice shot, I have a feeling these would all have been better with a manual exposure setting. They all look like bright sunlight so there should be no reason for exposures to be f6.3 through f9, all at 1/800. I do agree that patchy clouds make for challenging exposure settings but in this case the light did not change.