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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 03 Oct 2012 (Wednesday) 14:38
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Lens for fast and unpredictable kids indoors

 
FEChariot
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Oct 03, 2012 23:36 |  #31

kf095 wrote in post #15077328 (external link)
Watch where your kid is looking at. You will know where they are going to run next.

That might work in the NFL, but I have to question how long it's been since you shot children running around if you think they actually watch where they are going.


Canon 7D/350D, Σ17-50/2.8 OS, 18-55IS, 24-105/4 L IS, Σ30/1.4 EX, 50/1.8, C50/1.4, 55-250IS, 60/2.8, 70-200/4 L IS, 85/1.8, 100/2.8 IS L, 135/2 L 580EX II, 430EX II * 2, 270EX II.

  
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Scooby888
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Oct 04, 2012 00:26 |  #32

smythie wrote in post #15076713 (external link)
Sounds like good advice. How does the AF of the 17-50 OS fare when tracking?

Also one extra note is the sigma doesnt have a full time manual focus overide. I wouldn't give this up, I'd stick to the more expensive Canon


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ThierryF
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Oct 04, 2012 05:45 |  #33

dadgummit wrote in post #15076447 (external link)
I would end up just retyping this post^^

The 17-55 with the 430 EXII flash are a GREAT combo!

Just set the camera to M mode

ISO 400
Shutter 1/200
F5.6 or 8

and snap away indoors.

Thanks for the t on settings. I'm starting to practice with M mode and reading understanding exposure at the moment. I still have lots to learn and continue practicing.

I will get a flash right away and practice with my current equipment.




  
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ThierryF
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Oct 04, 2012 05:55 |  #34

dodgyexposure wrote in post #15076281 (external link)
There's a fast and unpredictable lens right there - just what you need for fast and unpredictable kids.

I have both a fast prime (Sigma 30mm) and bounce flash that I use (primarily) with my 15-85 for indoor kid shots. Horses for courses, really. I leave the Sigma on the camera for quick shots when I just pick up the camera and go. The Sigma performs well, but you obviously get a narrow DOF (and therefore small margin of focus error) the wider your aperture. When I have time, and want to have a better chance of nailing the shot, I use the 15-85 and flash. The results are quite different, so I don't see it as an either/or option.

I also use my 100L macro for indoor portraits of the kids - it is a stellar performer at 2.8- sharp, fast and accurate focus - but these are tight crop portraits, generally headshots or even partial head shots.

That sounds like a good set of options, having zoom with flash, normal prime and a portrait prime.

For the price of the 17-55 F2.8, I could get both the Sigma 30 and Canon 85F1.8, to complement what I already have. But I may be better served with 17-55F2.8 and 85F1.8.




  
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ThierryF
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Oct 04, 2012 06:09 |  #35

FEChariot wrote in post #15077424 (external link)
That might work in the NFL, but I have to question how long it's been since you shot children running around if you think they actually watch where they are going.

Hahaha, yeah looking where they are going would avoid a few surprise collisions.

I think my daughter just got tired of my practicing as she sometimes flees the camera as if playing hide and go seek or running around.

While I believe my 7 month old is only waiting for the camera to get close enought for him to grab it and see if it fits in his tiny mouth.




  
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ThierryF
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Oct 04, 2012 06:26 |  #36

kf095 wrote in post #15077328 (external link)
Flash for indoors. Bump ISO, lower flash output.
And.
Switch AF to * button, makes huge difference with kids at the floor or in the air.
Use only single AF point in AI Servo, if they jump around.
Watch where your kid is looking at. You will know where they are going to run next.
Any wide lens with fast AF will do for indoors. If you use all together.

Thank you for the tips, i will try AF on * button; that means single focus point right? I tried looking it up in the manuel where the * button is defined as exposure lock.




  
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pulsar123
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Oct 04, 2012 10:20 |  #37

Instead of switching back and forth between M and Av settings (with flash / without flash), check if you camera has a custom function which restricts the range of exposures when the flash is used.

In my camera (50D), the custom fuction is "Flash sync. speed in Av mode". I set it to "1/250-1/60s Auto", and set my camera to Av mode. If your flash is off, camera works as usual. If the flash is on, camera tries to adjust the exposure for both foreground and background, but exposure never becomes slower than 1/60s - great if you want to avoid motion blur and camera shake blur.


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pkilla
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Oct 04, 2012 10:46 |  #38

Sigma 17-50 is all you need!!


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Oct 04, 2012 11:00 |  #39

I concur with the suggestions on the 17-55. I have the EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 and it works great in the house with or without flash for capturing the grandkids ages 9 montsh - 2 years. rick


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Oct 04, 2012 11:23 |  #40

The only time I've needed a flash for routine indoor shots with my 28mm/1.8 was in a totally dark room.

The 28mm has great IQ, and is almost as fast focus as the 85/1.8 - I can routinely crop 4x or more.


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kf095
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Oct 04, 2012 13:37 |  #41

ThierryF wrote in post #15078196 (external link)
Thank you for the tips, i will try AF on * button; that means single focus point right? I tried looking it up in the manuel where the * button is defined as exposure lock.

No, it means back button focus method. The only method to focus at something moving fast to get highest possible keepers rate. And not only for this.

Canon atticle on three pages:
http://www.learn.usa.c​anon.com …ckbutton_af_art​icle.shtml (external link)


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dodgyexposure
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Oct 04, 2012 17:09 |  #42

pulsar123 wrote in post #15078880 (external link)
Instead of switching back and forth between M and Av settings (with flash / without flash), check if you camera has a custom function which restricts the range of exposures when the flash is used.

In my camera (50D), the custom fuction is "Flash sync. speed in Av mode". I set it to "1/250-1/60s Auto", and set my camera to Av mode. If your flash is off, camera works as usual. If the flash is on, camera tries to adjust the exposure for both foreground and background, but exposure never becomes slower than 1/60s - great if you want to avoid motion blur and camera shake blur.

Ah, so that's what that means! One of those things that I never quite got around to reading in the manual. Thanks for enlightening me.


Cheers, Damien

  
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ThierryF
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Oct 05, 2012 06:40 |  #43

pulsar123 wrote in post #15078880 (external link)
Instead of switching back and forth between M and Av settings (with flash / without flash), check if you camera has a custom function which restricts the range of exposures when the flash is used.

In my camera (50D), the custom fuction is "Flash sync. speed in Av mode". I set it to "1/250-1/60s Auto", and set my camera to Av mode. If your flash is off, camera works as usual. If the flash is on, camera tries to adjust the exposure for both foreground and background, but exposure never becomes slower than 1/60s - great if you want to avoid motion blur and camera shake blur.

Thank you for the advice.

I just got a flash so will try this out over the weekend.




  
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ThierryF
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Oct 05, 2012 06:43 |  #44

kf095 wrote in post #15079621 (external link)
No, it means back button focus method. The only method to focus at something moving fast to get highest possible keepers rate. And not only for this.

Canon atticle on three pages:
http://www.learn.usa.c​anon.com …ckbutton_af_art​icle.shtml (external link)

Ok thanks for the clarification and useful information. I read the article and will try this.




  
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ThierryF
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Oct 05, 2012 06:59 |  #45

I just got a flash and will play around with that and my current lenses for now and decide if I want to add an F2.8 zoom or a 28-30mm fast prime.

There are great recommendations for both options. The F2.8 zooms offer IS and zooming making it easier to use. The primes offer narrower depth of field/faster lens and are lighter and cheaper. Both offer great image quality.

Thank you for the recommendations and advice

Taking pictures is funner than I though

Thierry




  
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Lens for fast and unpredictable kids indoors
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