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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 05 Oct 2012 (Friday) 18:15
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Your an event shooter with a FF and Crop

 
Hogloff
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Oct 07, 2012 06:01 |  #46
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FEChariot wrote in post #15089483 (external link)
Let me throw this back at you then. Why do you have both a 7D and a 5D2 then? There must be some reason to have both. Are there things your 7D can do that your 5D2 can't?

I shoot sports with my 7D. If I shot a lot of events, I would definatley have another 5d2. Just makes a lot of sense to me to have two identical bodies each with a specific lens. Streams lines both at shooting as the two cameras UI are identical and saves in post processing times as the files exhibit the same features.




  
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Numenorean
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Oct 07, 2012 09:29 |  #47

Hogloff wrote in post #15089116 (external link)
Maybe your lighting stays the same, but shooting concerts, I can tell you it changes sometimes during the exposure. Shooting in a controlled environment might be a different situation.

As far as noise reduction goes, I find if I am to adjust the entire 7d image with the same amount, the image starts to become very plastic looking. I need to selectively apply noise reduction in the image. And before you say I should learn to expose, these images are exposed properly, but the ISO is usually higher than 1600. At those ISO levels, there is a major difference between the 7d and 5d2 and they require drastically different approaches to noise reduction.

Can you tell me the benefit you see to shooting two different types of cameras. I've mentioned plenty of issues using two different cameras...let's here some advantages.

I thought we were talking about event photography here, not concert photography. I can see that shooting a concert would be totally different with constantly changing and odd lighting going on all the time. With events you have places where the light does not change much. A church, reception hall, a hotel room, a few outdoor locations....in each location the light is very similar in most shots, so they can be edited by location relatively easily as long as your exposure is correct.

I'm not saying there is some huge benefit to using two different types of cameras, other than with the 7D I can shoot a higher FPS if I want which can be nice for things like garter/bouquet tosses. I'm simply saying that these issues and problems you keep bringing up I've never seen come up at all when it comes to event photography.


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Numenorean
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Oct 07, 2012 09:30 |  #48

Hogloff wrote in post #15089121 (external link)
Because you said you can get great results from your camera straight out of he camera. All raw files I have ever seen require work before they approach acceptable.

Just the fact of importing it into Lightroom is enough for it to automatically apply a few adjustments and they certainly are acceptable. Will I NOT edit them further? Usually not. But if I HAD to present one right away to a client, I could for most shots.


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Numenorean
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Oct 07, 2012 09:31 |  #49

Hogloff wrote in post #15089851 (external link)
I shoot sports with my 7D. If I shot a lot of events, I would definatley have another 5d2. Just makes a lot of sense to me to have two identical bodies each with a specific lens. Streams lines both at shooting as the two cameras UI are identical and saves in post processing times as the files exhibit the same features.

The camera UI is really irrelevant. It doesn't slow me down at all switching between the UI. In fact, I'd be just as quick with a 10D, 20D, 40D, 7D, 5D, 5DII as I've shot with all of them.


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swldstn
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Oct 07, 2012 20:32 |  #50

I have a 5d Mark III and a 1D Mark III but I chose this pair to optimize for two different types of shooting but one always acts as a back for the other. When doing events my primary body is the 5D III. I also still have my 7D but got ride of any EF-S glass since I can't use any of on my two main bodies.


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Charlie
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Oct 07, 2012 20:59 |  #51

24-70 on FF + 70-200 mk2 on crop (this combo gives the largest FOV), + 15 fish + kenko tubes(macro cheating)


Sony A7rii/A7riii/A9 - FE 12-24/4 - FE 24-240 - CV 21/3.5 - FE 35/2.8 - SY 35/1.4 AF - FE 50/1.8 - FE 85/1.8 - EF 135/1.8 Art - F 600/5.6 - CZ 100-300 - Astro Rok 14/2.8 - Tamron 28-75/2.8 RXD, 70-200/2.8 VC

  
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Bianchi
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Oct 07, 2012 22:32 |  #52

17-55 2.8 / 7D
70-200 2.8 II / 5D
Can swap the 70-200 to the 7D if more reach is neeeded. (church)

I 'd have 3 primes 35, 50, and 85 or 100. Not just one other, think boy scout, be prepared...

Hogloff, I know for a fact, shooting with two identical model camera's, can with identical settings still give you variations in images, where you would have to PP differently.

Shooting with Two of the same bodys or two differnt ones , makes no difference, so long as the photographer is comfortable with them..
Just differnt strokes for different folks. There is no wright or wrong. Perhaps easier for some, if they use the same body. I think the KEYWORD is comfortable.


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modchild
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Oct 08, 2012 08:19 |  #53

I would always take my bag to an event and choose which lenses were more apt to be useful than just take the same 3 lenses all the time and hope for the best. I've got 4 primes from 35-100 and 4 zooms from 24-500 that go with me all the time and I'd just pick the ones I'd need when I got there.


EOS 5D MkIII, EOS 70D, EOS 650D, EOS M, Canon 24-70 f2.8L MkII, Canon 70-200 f2.8L IS MkII, Canon 100 f2.8L Macro, Canon 17-40 f4L IS, Canon 24-105 f4L IS, Canon 300 f4L IS, Canon 85 f1.8, Canon 50 f1.4, Canon 40 f2.8 STM, Canon 35 f2, Sigma 150-500 OS, Tamron 18-270 PZD, Tamron 28-300 VC, 580EX II Flash, Nissin Di866 MkII Flash, Sigma EM 140 Macro Flash and other bits.

  
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Mike
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Oct 08, 2012 08:30 |  #54

24-70L
35L
70-200 2.8 L IS

(And if I were allowed a 4th, 85mm!)


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drzenitram
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Oct 08, 2012 20:32 |  #55

I do this, I find having both to be wonderful. I do it because it was what I can afford, but I think that if I were to upgrade I'd go from a t2i to a 7d2(whenever that comes out) instead of a t2i to a second 5d2.

I love the fact that I can take an 85 f1.4 and put it on crop and have a 135 f1.4. No, it doesn't make the same bokeh as a 135f2, but it's close, and it lets in more light, and doesn't cost me an extra $850! Granted, I lose that stop that I gain in usable ISO by using it on a crop body, but for the versatility it adds, it's great.

Instead of owning a 35 1.4, 50 1.4, 85 1.4, 135 f2, I can own a 35 1.4 and use it on crop for ~50mm and own an 85 1.4 and use it on crop for ~135mm. That saves me from having to buy 2 more lenses. My 70-200 2.8 portrait lens becomes a 112-320 2.8 sports lens when I throw it on the crop body. A 17-40 wide angle can be used as an ultra wide on FF or a general purpose lens on crop.

The images may look slightly different from crop to ff, but just like anything else, it becomes second nature the more you do it.

So, while with a pair of 5d2s I'd want to own a 17-40L, 35L, 50 1.4, 85 1.4, 135L, 70-200 f2.8...

with FF+crop all I need is a 17-40, 35L, 85 1.4, 70-200 f2.8.


| Bodies - 5D Mark II, T2i | Lenses - Helios 44-2, Sigma 35mm 1.4, Sigma 85 1.4, Sigma 70-200 2.8 OS, Tamron SP AF 1.4x TC | Lights - 430ex ii x2, Random 3rd party strobes

  
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Hogloff
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Oct 08, 2012 21:07 |  #56
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drzenitram wrote in post #15096567 (external link)
I do this, I find having both to be wonderful. I do it because it was what I can afford, but I think that if I were to upgrade I'd go from a t2i to a 7d2(whenever that comes out) instead of a t2i to a second 5d2.

I love the fact that I can take an 85 f1.4 and put it on crop and have a 135 f1.4. No, it doesn't make the same bokeh as a 135f2, but it's close, and it lets in more light, and doesn't cost me an extra $850! Granted, I lose that stop that I gain in usable ISO by using it on a crop body, but for the versatility it adds, it's great.

Instead of owning a 35 1.4, 50 1.4, 85 1.4, 135 f2, I can own a 35 1.4 and use it on crop for ~50mm and own an 85 1.4 and use it on crop for ~135mm. That saves me from having to buy 2 more lenses. My 70-200 2.8 portrait lens becomes a 112-320 2.8 sports lens when I throw it on the crop body. A 17-40 wide angle can be used as an ultra wide on FF or a general purpose lens on crop.

The images may look slightly different from crop to ff, but just like anything else, it becomes second nature the more you do it.

So, while with a pair of 5d2s I'd want to own a 17-40L, 35L, 50 1.4, 85 1.4, 135L, 70-200 f2.8...

with FF+crop all I need is a 17-40, 35L, 85 1.4, 70-200 f2.8.

I guess I need to ask why you need to have the entire range covered. You know it is OK to have some gaps...right?




  
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Scooby888
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Oct 08, 2012 21:25 |  #57

Fettaugraphy wrote in post #15084904 (external link)
Ok

Here is the scenario I would eventually like to see myself in.

You are an event shooter. Say a wedding. You carry around two bodies one FF the other crop. What three lenses would you carry with you. Assume two are mounted and you have one in your pocket.

my choice would be a 50mm 1.4 , 85mm 1.8 and the 70-200 f2.8 although that might get a little heavy and perhaps I would opt for the f4 instead.

Your turn.

If your shooting a wedding I wouldn't suggest any F4 lenes unless you going to be using flash. Unless your very experianced I wouldn't suggest primes either as you haven't got the time to move at a wedding or lens swap for that matter.

I use a 17-55 on the 7D and a 70-200 f2.8 on a 5DII. That covers the whole shoot from start to finish. Very rarely I would use a wide for bride getting ready if they have a tiny room or for some pre church shots, outside building, full room etc.

Hope this helps


5DII Gripped, 7D Gripped, Canon 60D, Tokina 11-16 f2.8, Canon 17-55 f2.8, Tokina 50-135 f2.8, Canon 24-70 f2.8 L, Canon 24-105 L f4, Canon 70-200 f4 L IS, Canon 70-200 f2.8 L IS, Canon 100-400 f4.5-5.6 L, Canon EF 100 L Macro f2.8, Canon 50mm f1.4, Canon 1.4tc mkii, Speedlite 580ii, 2x Speedlite 430ii, Monfrotto tripods

  
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drzenitram
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Oct 09, 2012 06:31 |  #58

Hogloff wrote in post #15096714 (external link)
I guess I need to ask why you need to have the entire range covered. You know it is OK to have some gaps...right?

Who wants to be stuck in the desert with a phillips head when all you need is a flathead to get your dune buggy running again? I prefer to be prepared!


| Bodies - 5D Mark II, T2i | Lenses - Helios 44-2, Sigma 35mm 1.4, Sigma 85 1.4, Sigma 70-200 2.8 OS, Tamron SP AF 1.4x TC | Lights - 430ex ii x2, Random 3rd party strobes

  
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Davisje011
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Oct 09, 2012 15:10 as a reply to  @ drzenitram's post |  #59

I do mainly outdoor events where I CANNOT get into the middle of the action (too dangerous) but I was looking to get into indoor events and maybe expand my artistic chops. Would this be a good combo?

5DmkII - 16-35L II - 24-70L II - 70-200L II - 2xTC III?

Obviously, i'd need to sell some stuff, but I see lots of primes being touted about and I'm just so used to being able to frame with my wrist rather than my feet.


Canon 5D Mk III - 16-35mm f2.8L II - 24-70mm f2.8L II - 70-200mm f2.8L IS II - 2x Extender III - 600EX-RT - 430EX II - BG-E11

  
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Scooby888
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Oct 09, 2012 16:18 |  #60

Davisje011 wrote in post #15099830 (external link)
I do mainly outdoor events where I CANNOT get into the middle of the action (too dangerous) but I was looking to get into indoor events and maybe expand my artistic chops. Would this be a good combo?

5DmkII - 16-35L II - 24-70L II - 70-200L II - 2xTC III?

Obviously, i'd need to sell some stuff, but I see lots of primes being touted about and I'm just so used to being able to frame with my wrist rather than my feet.

Would you really need the wide if you can't get in the middle of the action?

The 24-70 and 70-200 yes. I would skip the 2x TC, if you really need more reach the 1.4 TC has far less impact on IQ


5DII Gripped, 7D Gripped, Canon 60D, Tokina 11-16 f2.8, Canon 17-55 f2.8, Tokina 50-135 f2.8, Canon 24-70 f2.8 L, Canon 24-105 L f4, Canon 70-200 f4 L IS, Canon 70-200 f2.8 L IS, Canon 100-400 f4.5-5.6 L, Canon EF 100 L Macro f2.8, Canon 50mm f1.4, Canon 1.4tc mkii, Speedlite 580ii, 2x Speedlite 430ii, Monfrotto tripods

  
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