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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 01 Jan 2009 (Thursday) 18:38
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PLA: Prime Lovers Anonymous

 
NotBlake
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Oct 23, 2012 19:57 |  #2431

ChrisMc73 wrote in post #14637077 (external link)
I shoot mostly children, families, events with people, I've done an occasional wedding though not what I want to very often, but mainly tell stories with people in the shots.

I have a FF, 5D Mark II.

I have rented all the lenses I want; 14L, 24L, 35L, 50L, 85L, 135L etc...and I've scoured through all my shots in LR4, sorting by lens, and my favorite, most sharp shots are all done with these lenses. The zooms seem to have some softness to them, while still excellent and versatile, something compared to the primes doesn't seem to match is IQ.

I will never regret the decision to buy the 24-70 and capture the images of my first sons birth, which was 4 weeks earlier than expected, and so I had to learn how to use the camera and that lens sooner than expected. I'll always appreciate the zooms, but I think I've grown enough in my skills to recognize some of my images could be a lot better with the primes. And learning to use my feet with them instead of relying on the zoom, is something I want to do to help expand myself as a photographer.

You posted this all the way back in June, so I'm not sure if you've made a decision yet, but I thought I'd offer some learnings that I've gathered from this rather expensive hobby.

1. Don't buy primes too close together!: This is a big one if you're on a budget. Buying a 50 and 35 and 85, for example will will probably see you leaving one or more home all the time. I think lots of folks choose 24-50-135 or 35-85-200 or some other amalgamation. give yourself more credit for being able to stretch the usefulness of a prime at least 20mm.

2. make sure you cover your minimum and maximum focal lengths: Unless you can afford the expensive L's these ranges may be better covered by zooms. if you decide to go with a 24 or 35 at the wide end, but you like to take landscapes, it might be a good idea to include a 17-40 in your budget. The same can be said for the other end. If you often like shooting 300-400mm a 100-400 may cover you better than a 400 f/5.6 or trying to pony up the cash for a 400 f2.8.

I guess it was only two points... hardly enough to warrant a list, but oh well.

Anyway good luck with your new lenses! it's always exciting!




  
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Maffu
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Oct 24, 2012 03:20 |  #2432

Ignoring the 'noob' comment...

agphotography wrote in post #15160451 (external link)
f/2 isn't fast enough? Are you shooting in caves? haha. I love my 135 f/2. I hardly ever feel that it doesn't allow enough light (and I am definitely a 3200-6400 shooter). I was going to recommend the 85 f/1.8 to you, but it sounds like it might not be fast enough for you ;). Past that you have two choices for AF lenses. The Sigma 85 f/1.4 and the Canon 85L.

Can you describe why you feel that f/2 is not quick enough for you?

I say 'fast' partly in mind of using a 1.4 50mm in comparison, but my subject isolation too. I don't find I'm able to isolate subject from background when not close up to the subject as much as I'd like to from this lens. It could be that I'm asking too much, but I do feel a similar focal length'd lens [So yes, the sigma 85 1.4 for example] could do a better job. Or achieve something I am after.

Given I shoot with a crop sensor, I need all the help I can get for subject isolation - until I make my way to a full-frame sensor camera.


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namasste
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Oct 24, 2012 06:43 |  #2433

Maffu wrote in post #15162191 (external link)
Ignoring the 'noob' comment...

I say 'fast' partly in mind of using a 1.4 50mm in comparison, but my subject isolation too. I don't find I'm able to isolate subject from background when not close up to the subject as much as I'd like to from this lens. It could be that I'm asking too much, but I do feel a similar focal length'd lens [So yes, the sigma 85 1.4 for example] could do a better job. Or achieve something I am after.

Given I shoot with a crop sensor, I need all the help I can get for subject isolation - until I make my way to a full-frame sensor camera.

I think you'll find that your glass doesn't need to be as fast as you think to get isolation when you move away from normals to tele photos.


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agphotography
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Oct 24, 2012 14:58 |  #2434

Maffu wrote in post #15162191 (external link)
Ignoring the 'noob' comment...
I say 'fast' partly in mind of using a 1.4 50mm in comparison, but my subject isolation too. I don't find I'm able to isolate subject from background when not close up to the subject as much as I'd like to from this lens. It could be that I'm asking too much, but I do feel a similar focal length'd lens [So yes, the sigma 85 1.4 for example] could do a better job. Or achieve something I am after.

Given I shoot with a crop sensor, I need all the help I can get for subject isolation - until I make my way to a full-frame sensor camera.

namasste wrote in post #15162457 (external link)
I think you'll find that your glass doesn't need to be as fast as you think to get isolation when you move away from normals to tele photos.

Agreed, bear in mind that the "wider" your lens the less subject isolation you will get. My 135L produces way more background blur and subject isolation at f/2 than my 85mm does at f/1.8 (I know it's not f/1.4, but that's a minor difference). On top of this, the longer you go the more isolation you get as your FOV narrows.

For instance, I'm testing out the new Sigma 180mm f/2.8 macro right now and at full-body portrait distances I can get the entire subject in focus an the entire background to be just a wash.

The factor that makes the most difference is not so much how wide your aperture is but rather what your Subject-To-Background distance is.


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drzenitram
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Oct 24, 2012 15:01 |  #2435

agphotography wrote in post #15164238 (external link)
Agreed, bear in mind that the "wider" your lens the less subject isolation you will get. My 135L produces way more background blur and subject isolation at f/2 than my 85mm does at f/1.8 (I know it's not f/1.4, but that's a minor difference). On top of this, the longer you go the more isolation you get as your FOV narrows.

For instance, I'm testing out the new Sigma 180mm f/2.8 macro right now and at full-body portrait distances I can get the entire subject in focus an the entire background to be just a wash.

The factor that makes the most difference is not so much how wide your aperture is but rather what your Subject-To-Background distance is.

My sigma 85 1.4 makes much more blur and subject isolation than my 135L did, that's why I sold the 135. I chose the 85 because it gives me an easier working distance. When I have the space, though, 200mm @ f2.8 is nice.


| Bodies - 5D Mark II, T2i | Lenses - Helios 44-2, Sigma 35mm 1.4, Sigma 85 1.4, Sigma 70-200 2.8 OS, Tamron SP AF 1.4x TC | Lights - 430ex ii x2, Random 3rd party strobes

  
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ChuckingFluff
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Oct 24, 2012 15:37 |  #2436

I went from all primes to all zooms to all primes again and now I have a balance of both. I'll pick a prime over a zoom when I can but when it comes to events I still find the primes limiting.




  
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Jay-Bird
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Oct 25, 2012 16:31 |  #2437

I am getting a good collection of primes:

IMAGE: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8335/8123157044_53f7312d56_c.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …inphotography/8​123157044/  (external link)
Prime Family (external link) by zeroedinphoto (external link), on Flickr

40 2.8, 50 1.8, 50 1.4, 100 2.0

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Bonbridge
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Oct 25, 2012 16:43 |  #2438

ChuckingFluff wrote in post #15164411 (external link)
I went from all primes to all zooms to all primes again and now I have a balance of both. I'll pick a prime over a zoom when I can but when it comes to events I still find the primes limiting.

I would like to go all primes, but like you, in some cases it's just not handy. So my ultimate kit is prime and zoom together.

I really would like to buy a 35L to compliment my 85L

My ultimate kit would be:

17-40L (prime is not handy for indoor architecture and landscape in my opinion)
35L
24-70L (I think I am not going to use this lens much when I have all the lenses listed here)
85LII
70-200LII (More versatile than the 135L and the IQ is still outstanding)

I would love a TS-E or something, but it is not nessecary


5DII + 6D | 16-35/4.0L IS | Σ35/1.4A | 40/2.8 | Σ85/1.4A | 70-200/2.8L IS II
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falcnr
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Oct 27, 2012 00:13 |  #2439

I consider myself a prime 'o holic particularly for wildlife photography and I shoot 300mm F2.8 IS and recently a 400mm F2.8 MK2 and my trusty 500mm F4 but must confess to owning a 17-40 F4, 24-70 F2.8 and 70-200mm F2.8 ....so does that cancel out my primes and I really have nothing?




  
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bent ­ toe
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Oct 27, 2012 08:03 |  #2440

x2x3x4x5x wrote in post #6984702 (external link)
Who here shoots only primes and can't get enough of the bokeh, speed, and amazing clarity? Who here goes to sleep at night next to a 35L (85L for you chubby chasers) on the pillow next to them? Who here enjoys the compositional benefits of good 'ol foot zooming?

We're here to help each other and provide support for those addicted. The first step is always admitting. :p

So, guys, how/if/why have primes changed your photography?

Happy New Years, fellow future PLA members.

respectfully,
Pat

Not L lenses.. but nearly as good...
I love my 85mm the most, but the 50 and the 8 is awesome aswell.
Next in line is the 28.. the USM are such great lenses, even if they are 20 years old.


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X-Pro1 XF 35 f/1.4

  
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bent ­ toe
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Oct 27, 2012 08:05 |  #2441

Pupu wrote in post #14758175 (external link)
Hi All, I'm trying to avoid another thread with my question. I plan to purchase either 85mm f1.8, 100mm f2 or 135mm f2.8 SF....135L is out of my budget. I plan to use it for 'head shots' from 18-20 feet distance. Basically candid indoor shots without distracting the subject. Which of these will give me the reach. I'm not looking at them from quality of a FL perspective. I tried 85mm but it seems too short for the job. I don't have the option to try 100mm and 135 before purchase :-(
Are you aware of any other lens options? It has to be fast & sharp.

I have 550D and 17-50 f2.8. Please help.

85 would fit you perfect, a friend got the 100 and he thinks the 85 is better with 1.6x
He got a 40D.

I've tried the 100 and i really like it.. but i LOVE the 85.


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bent ­ toe
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Oct 27, 2012 08:11 |  #2442

shinyknights wrote in post #14561528 (external link)
I just completed my poor man's holy trinity!! Pic taken with my nifty fifty :D I am a happy guy!! Now to complete my L zoom trinity.

QUOTED IMAGE

I need that 28!
It's wrong saying these are the poor mans trinity.. it's still $1.200 to get all three new.. atleast here in Sweden.

There is nothing poor with them if you ask me, i've spoken to people with the L version that are equally impressed with these versions, only drawback is the buildquality and weathersealing.. and for that your paying 3x the money.. worth it? Not if you ask me.


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bent ­ toe
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Oct 27, 2012 12:09 |  #2443

IMAGE: http://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_mck97ogmWP1rtbm54o1_500.jpg

IMAGE: http://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_mck94d15FR1rtbm54o1_500.jpg

IMAGE: http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_mck9h78hRf1rtbm54o1_500.jpg

Shot with the fifty and the eight

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jerbear00
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Oct 27, 2012 13:40 |  #2444

Hi, I am Jeremy and I am an addict..... Help me stop before I add a 200 f2 or 400 2.8.....

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5d3 & Lens CoLLector
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agphotography
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Oct 27, 2012 17:52 |  #2445

I think you actually need a 17mm TS-E. The 200L and 400L can wait.


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