Film camera image quality is down to the film and the lenses, has nothing to do with the camera itself (unless there's something wrong with it, such as a light leak or an inaccurate shutter or metering system).
The last, top of the line film camera model was the EOS-1V. It's the film equivalent of the 1D series digitals. FIrst introduced in 2000, it was also offered as a 1V HS or High Speed, with a PB-E2 Power Booster added, that gave up to 10 frames per second shooting (when the rechargeable nicad batteries were used... 8 fps with alkaline batteries). The 1V was a very expensive camera in it's day, but can be found for relatively low prices today. Prior to the 1V there were several EOS-1N and EOS-1 models, but some of those get pretty old and/or aren't up to the specs of later models like the EOS-3 or EOS-1V.
Best reasonably affordable film camera... EOS-3. It's one step down from the top of the line, has a wonderful AF system (in 1998 it was the first Canon to get the 45-point system, similar to what was later used in the 1V, 1D series cameras up until the 1DX). The EOS-3 can also be fitted with the PB-E2 Power Booster (which is a lot like a battery grip for a DSLR), giving up to 6 fps with alkaline batteries and up to 8 fps with rechargeable Nicads.
Another model I used a lot was the Elan 7... it's a mid-grade model just below the EOS-3 and especially quiet for an SLR. There were "E" versions with Eye Control, same as on EOS-3... and a slightly improved "N" or "New" version, both with and without EC. (Outside N. America the model was known as EOS 30, 30E, 33 and 33E, if I recall correctly.) There was a battery grip available for the Elan 7 models, too, though it merely held more batteries and uses standard AA alkalines, wasn't a power booster like on the EOS-3 and 1V models.
There were quite a few good film cameras. Those are just the ones I'm most experienced with. There were quite a few Rebel series, too, that can be bought for a song today. They will work with all your lenses (won't work with "crop only" and EF-S lenses... EOS film cameras are "full frame"). I still have a pair of EOS-3s. If you want more info on specific models and to check their approx. age, you an find a lot of good stuff at http://www.canon.com …mera/film/series_eos.html
One EOS model you will probably want to avoid is the 1X. That's actually an APS film camera (requires special APS film cartridges and shoots the smaller image format).
You will generally want to use as low ISO film as possible, to get the top image quality. Film came in different types (slides, color negs, B&W) and with different color/contrast properties, often was tailored to some extent for specific purposes. The Portra films lend themselves to portraiture... skin tones. Other films are better for landscapes and nature, more saturated films such as Ektachrome 100VS, Fuji Velvia 50 (both of which are slide films). I used slide films up to ISO 200, then any faster film I'd switch to a color print film because the grain was finer. High ISO slide films were always a bit contrasty and "chunky" for my tastes. A less saturated, more faithful color rendition slide film is Fuji Provia. The Fuji Sensia line of consumer grade slide films is similar and pretty good. Kodachrome is defunct, you can't get it processed anymore, AFAIK. It was a neat film though (various ISOs: 25, 64, 100).
Black and white... Back in the day I used a lot of Kodak Tri-X 400, processed it myself. My favorite slower, fine grain B&W film is Fuji Neopan Acros.... it's ISO 100, but rivals the fine grain of ISO 25 and 32 film from years earlier. It's very rich. Today I'd probably use a lot of Ilford XP-2 or the Kodak chromogenic/C-41 process film, simply for the convenience of local, 1 hour processing (rather than set up a darkroom) and it's digital scanning properties. Both are ISO 400.
Kodak and Fuji still offer some good color films, which are more "forgiving" than slide film, typically. I used Kodacolor Gold and Gold Max films a bit.
Slide film is more rigidly processed, but needs to be sent off somewhere for processing, takes about a week. It's generally better/easier to scan into digital files, if you want to do that.
Color print film, most can be processed locally (C41). Pro labs do a pretty well controlled process. 1 hour labs, well at some you get whatever the minimum wage, pimply kid running the machine manages to do between texts to his girlfriend.
If interested in them, B&W films come in two basic types.... silver based and C41. The silver based are useful to process yourself, more difficult to get done by a lab. The C41 use the same process as color print, so can be developed almost anywhere. The C41 are also better for scanning to digital.